It was around $400 for my Acura. How many miles is it at? If it's getting towards 90k you should get it changed soon, a timing belt snap could be tragic.
What?Originally posted by: 0roo0roo
so much for an easy 300, guy says timing belt is fine, has to take apart enginewtf!!
The only thing that's wrong is that your mechanic is trying to pull a fast one on you. Yes, to get to the timing belt you have to "take the engine apart" but IIRC I was chaged for about 3 hours of work and I dropped the Acura off a Sunday night and picked it up the following monday afternoon.
1000 dollars and week of work is rediculous.
BTW, I was saying "What" in the previous post because I had no idea what you were trying to convey.
Actually we were going off of the op's diagnosis from the start. He may have been wrong.
0roo0roo, what made you say it was the timing belt? What happened?
I was under the impression that he was just doing routine maintenence by changing his timing belt. Is something wrong with your ride 0roo?
- Sep 21, 2002
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no it wasn't routine maintenance. i tried to start the car yesterday and it just didn't start. you could hear the starter, but no engine rumber or anything. so i had it towed to the mechanic. the mechanic said it might be the timing belt, since the electrical systems seemed to be working, and the plugs are new. he said he thought the timing belt had snapped or come off. so today, he checks, and apparently its ok. which sorta makes sense since its only 70k miles so far. now he says its something in the engine, and its going to cost a lot more
been going to the guy for a while, he's always been trustworthy in the past. this is f*cked up, i've changed oil regulary, i even changed my coolant myself. i've been driving gentle to save gas to boot. car is unmodified. bah
been going to the guy for a while, he's always been trustworthy in the past. this is f*cked up, i've changed oil regulary, i even changed my coolant myself. i've been driving gentle to save gas to boot. car is unmodified. bah
Originally posted by: 0roo0roo
no it wasn't routine maintenance. i tried to start the car yesterday and it just didn't start. you could hear the starter, but no engine rumber or anything. so i had it towed to the mechanic. the mechanic said it might be the timing belt, since the electrical systems seemed to be working, and the plugs are new. he said he thought the timing belt had snapped or come off. so today, he checks, and apparently its ok. which sorta makes sense since its only 70k miles so far. now he says its something in the engine, and its going to cost a lot more
been going to the guy for a while, he's always been trustworthy in the past. this is f*cked up, i've changed oil regulary, i even changed my coolant myself. i've been driving gentle to save gas to boot. car is unmodified. bah
A couple thoughts: the ignition coil and/or the fuel pump. These two can be tricky to diagnose--but they'll stop your car from working (I had a friend who was jerked around by a 3rd party mechanic because Hondas shut off the fuel pump if there is an ignition problem). My sister's ignition coil burned up on her Civic because of improper grounding... and the car would TRY to start (i.e. the starter would turn over the engine), but nothing happened. This isn't a common thing with Hondas, but it can happen (as well with any brand).
As far as opening up the engine... does he mean actually taking the head off? If so, yes, that's going to be expensive. But that's kind of a rare thing to do as a "quick diagnosis". Wait until he's run some diagnostics.
Well... some Hondas have a circuit that will stop the fuel pump from getting power if the spark plugs aren't receiving power (to prevent you from completely flooding the cylinder in case of alternator/plug failure). All I'm saying is that he should be using a OBD detector--if he's a reputable Honda mechanic, he should have one--so he can get SOME good information that way.
Cracking open the head is an expensive thing--very time consuming. And its curious he would "suggest" this without having thoroughly examined the car.
Well... some Hondas have a circuit that will stop the fuel pump from getting power if the spark plugs aren't receiving power (to prevent you from completely flooding the cylinder in case of alternator/plug failure). All I'm saying is that he should be using a OBD detector--if he's a reputable Honda mechanic, he should have one--so he can get SOME good information that way.
Cracking open the head is an expensive thing--very time consuming. And its curious he would "suggest" this without having thoroughly examined the car.
OK, OK...
So you try and start the car and *NOTHING* happens? Just maybe a click?
Or you try and start the car and the engine turns over, but doesen't actually ever start?
We don't really have the full picture, the mechanic very well may know more.. Obviously, #1 is much worse than #2 and could warrant internal inspection.
If it turns over but just never actually starts and your mechanic wants to dive straight into the engine, GET A DIFFERENT MECHANIC.
Even then, make sure he checks to make sure it isn't an electrical problem. Or starter.
I'm doubting at this point that there is something wrong with your engines' insides.
So you try and start the car and *NOTHING* happens? Just maybe a click?
Or you try and start the car and the engine turns over, but doesen't actually ever start?
We don't really have the full picture, the mechanic very well may know more.. Obviously, #1 is much worse than #2 and could warrant internal inspection.
If it turns over but just never actually starts and your mechanic wants to dive straight into the engine, GET A DIFFERENT MECHANIC.
Even then, make sure he checks to make sure it isn't an electrical problem. Or starter.
I'm doubting at this point that there is something wrong with your engines' insides.
Definately get the fuel system checked out. It could be the mentioned fuel pump, hoses, pressure regulator, or the fuel rail, injectors, or fuel filter.
Ignition could be it also. Distributor, crank posistion sensor, coil, igniter...
Also, check all the fuses under the hood by the battery, as well as under the dash. Sometimes, it may also be a relay (like a starter relay), but those are harder to tell if they are broken.
Oh, btw, what year civic is it? There was a recall for certain 97-01 Civics.
Make: HONDA
Model: CIVIC
Year: 1998
Recall Number: 02V120000
Summary:
ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence:
WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Make: HONDA
Model: CIVIC
Year: 1998
Recall Number: 02V120000
Summary:
ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence:
WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
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OK, so if the starter is spinning the engine and you are smelling fuel when you're cranking the engine that almost always means there is no spark. Check the coil and the distributor.
ZV
If the engine turns over, have him do a compression check.
If that checks out OK, there is NO reason to break the engine open. The problem is in one of the accessory systems.
Fuel, ignition, electrical...
It sounds like your mechanic may be a little old fashioned, and not used to working on the new computer controlled engines or something.
If that checks out OK, there is NO reason to break the engine open. The problem is in one of the accessory systems.
Fuel, ignition, electrical...
It sounds like your mechanic may be a little old fashioned, and not used to working on the new computer controlled engines or something.
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
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A cable? Every cable needs to be checked, as does every spark plug. Just because the cable works it doesn't mean that the plug is actually sparking. Also, that still doesn't mean that the distributor doesn't have a problem, it could still be timed wrong, or it could be not giving a strong enough spark or the advance could be stuck which would cause the timing to be wrong and cause a no-start.Originally posted by: 0roo0roo
yea, one would think so, but he took a cable off the distrib while i was cranking and it sparked
ZV
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