Ok, some of you may remember a LONG time ago I made two threads, both about the feasibility of installing computer subwoofers in cars because
1. They're cheaper than conventional car subs. Enclosure, amp, and sub are all there for you, already perfectly designed for the sub.
2. If you've already got a good computer sub, might as well use it on road trips.
3. They sound VERY decent for the money.
The naysayers warned me not to do such a thing because
1. The heat in a car during summer and such would destroy the sub, which was never designed to withstand those temperatures.
2. This sub malfunction could set the car on fire (poster said he personally saw this happen).
The Present:
I've put 15K miles on my car with the sub installed and blaring, from the scalding heat of the summer to the below freezing temps during spring in the Rockies, literally halfway across the country and back, and everything has gone without a hitch.
My Setup:
500W Power On Board Inverter - $40 at Sam's Club, may no longer be selling this inverter
200W RMS 10" Logitech Sub from the $200 Z-5500. I also used a 120W RMS Logitech 8" sub from the $50 Z-2200.
Stereo Y Adapter - $6
MP3 Player
Cassette Player Adapter - $20 or less, since my headunit doesn't have an AUX in.
Control Unit from the Logitech speaker system
Hookup:
Inverter:
Basically what you have to do is first install the inverter. For a sub like the 120W RMS 8", all you need is a small 200W inverter that plugs directly into your cigarette lighter. For a sub like the 200W RMS 10" Logitech, you have to get a beefier inverter, and hook it up directly to your car battery.
Consult the inverter manual for instructions. It is not hard. The hardest part is perhaps getting the wires from your battery through the fire wall and into the passenger cabin.
Sub:
Put the sub in the trunk, plug the power cable into the inverter.
Plug the audio system's control unit into the sub, and put the control unit in a convenient place where you can reach it while driving and control the sub's volume levels.
MP3 Player:
Plug the Y Adapter into the MP3 player, and plug one end into your AUX or your cassette player adapter, and the other end into your sub's control unit. This in essence feeds audio signals into the sub and your car's regular audio system at the same time. Your sub will only reproduce the low notes, and the regular audio system can take care of all the rest
Finalizing:
Turn on the inverter, turn on the sub, turn on the player, play some tunes, and adjust your sub and car speakers for the desired listening experience.
Pictars:
Sub in the Back:
1
2
3
Back of the Sub:
4
Backseat:
5
6
Front:
7
From the MP3 player: Y Adapter, left wire going into the cassette adapter, right wire going to the control unit (clunky thing with the round knob, not shown in this picture)
Regular Driving Setup:
8
Conclusion:
This setup cost me ~$250, and most of that money doubles in my car and in my room. The bass that this thing pumps out is quite impressive. It's NOT the back-massage feeling of real car subs, but it's powerful enough to shake the rearview mirror and the sideview mirrors. The bass gets pretty damn low and it's a very welcome addition that gives your music a more fuller sound. Works great for rap
I believe this would work just as well for Klipsch subs.
I've also tried this with the Z-2200's 8" sub, and it worked out quite well too. The 8" sub can really pound, as owners will attest. For only $50, it's one HELL of a deal for a cheap car sub that'll add fullness to your music. The Z-2200 sub also had the ability to vibrate the rearview mirrors and sideview mirrors. The Z-5500 sub just goes lower and hits a bit harder.
Like I said before, I believe this setup is perfectly safe. I've used the 8" setup for half a year and the 10" setup for half a year as well, both on for roadtrips and off for regular driving around town, where they go back in my room. The roadtrips for the 10" totalled 15K miles. From below freezing alpine springs to humid, hot summers in Ohio and NY, the subs have functioned without a hitch, and my car has never been set on fire.
1. They're cheaper than conventional car subs. Enclosure, amp, and sub are all there for you, already perfectly designed for the sub.
2. If you've already got a good computer sub, might as well use it on road trips.
3. They sound VERY decent for the money.
The naysayers warned me not to do such a thing because
1. The heat in a car during summer and such would destroy the sub, which was never designed to withstand those temperatures.
2. This sub malfunction could set the car on fire (poster said he personally saw this happen).
The Present:
I've put 15K miles on my car with the sub installed and blaring, from the scalding heat of the summer to the below freezing temps during spring in the Rockies, literally halfway across the country and back, and everything has gone without a hitch.
My Setup:
500W Power On Board Inverter - $40 at Sam's Club, may no longer be selling this inverter
200W RMS 10" Logitech Sub from the $200 Z-5500. I also used a 120W RMS Logitech 8" sub from the $50 Z-2200.
Stereo Y Adapter - $6
MP3 Player
Cassette Player Adapter - $20 or less, since my headunit doesn't have an AUX in.
Control Unit from the Logitech speaker system
Hookup:
Inverter:
Basically what you have to do is first install the inverter. For a sub like the 120W RMS 8", all you need is a small 200W inverter that plugs directly into your cigarette lighter. For a sub like the 200W RMS 10" Logitech, you have to get a beefier inverter, and hook it up directly to your car battery.
Consult the inverter manual for instructions. It is not hard. The hardest part is perhaps getting the wires from your battery through the fire wall and into the passenger cabin.
Sub:
Put the sub in the trunk, plug the power cable into the inverter.
Plug the audio system's control unit into the sub, and put the control unit in a convenient place where you can reach it while driving and control the sub's volume levels.
MP3 Player:
Plug the Y Adapter into the MP3 player, and plug one end into your AUX or your cassette player adapter, and the other end into your sub's control unit. This in essence feeds audio signals into the sub and your car's regular audio system at the same time. Your sub will only reproduce the low notes, and the regular audio system can take care of all the rest
Finalizing:
Turn on the inverter, turn on the sub, turn on the player, play some tunes, and adjust your sub and car speakers for the desired listening experience.
Pictars:
Sub in the Back:
1
2
3
Back of the Sub:
4
Backseat:
5
6
Front:
7
From the MP3 player: Y Adapter, left wire going into the cassette adapter, right wire going to the control unit (clunky thing with the round knob, not shown in this picture)
Regular Driving Setup:
8
Conclusion:
This setup cost me ~$250, and most of that money doubles in my car and in my room. The bass that this thing pumps out is quite impressive. It's NOT the back-massage feeling of real car subs, but it's powerful enough to shake the rearview mirror and the sideview mirrors. The bass gets pretty damn low and it's a very welcome addition that gives your music a more fuller sound. Works great for rap
I believe this would work just as well for Klipsch subs.
I've also tried this with the Z-2200's 8" sub, and it worked out quite well too. The 8" sub can really pound, as owners will attest. For only $50, it's one HELL of a deal for a cheap car sub that'll add fullness to your music. The Z-2200 sub also had the ability to vibrate the rearview mirrors and sideview mirrors. The Z-5500 sub just goes lower and hits a bit harder.
Like I said before, I believe this setup is perfectly safe. I've used the 8" setup for half a year and the 10" setup for half a year as well, both on for roadtrips and off for regular driving around town, where they go back in my room. The roadtrips for the 10" totalled 15K miles. From below freezing alpine springs to humid, hot summers in Ohio and NY, the subs have functioned without a hitch, and my car has never been set on fire.
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