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Changing Tubing on H60 2013 and H110?

Belial88

Senior member
Hi, I know you get a lot of newcomers who ask this sort of question without realizing that it takes a ton of work, voids the warranty, etc, but I'm an experienced modder who is fully aware of the difficulties of such a task, and the apparent futility of doing so. This is entirely an aesthetic mod, not a practical one.

Again, I repeat, I am an experienced modder fully aware of the difficulties and futility of doing this. This is an aesthetic mod and I am here to ask for technical specifications, not necessarily for a How To.

Here's some pictures of what I'm working with, to show that this is a serious request. Yes, my side panel is on hinges and opens with the push of a button. For reference, I am using a Bitfenix Shinobi, a low end budget case, first pic is just a stock pic to give an idea.

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I have an H60 2013 aka Refresh, the newer one with much larger, smooth neoprene based off the Coolit Eco II, not the older one with corrugated and based off the Coolit Eco, and H110 (based off an Asetek Gen3 I believe), and I'd like to replace the tubing. Pretty straightforward, it's been done before, but I'm not sure it's been done exactly on these 2 units, usually on different closed loops that utilize different tubing (or, I am not sure it's the same size, ie kuhler 620).

The Corsair H110 is attached to my i7-4770K, while my H60 is attached to my 7950 via Dwood Bracket. I'd likely add a reservoir to the H110 loop (a small one, I'm aware of the weak pump) because if I'm tearing it up, why not, but not to the H60. My load temps on the H110 hits 80C+ with a delidded 1.5v i7-4770K, but my 7950 hits only 35C load temps, and that's with an extreme overvoltage and modded BIOS, so no reason to add a res.

I need help figuring out:
  • Tubing Needed. The H110 seems to use thinner, 'normal' neoprene, I saw a review say the rad and stuff uses 1/4 barbs but I've looked up tubing dimensions before and they were wrong, ie it's definitely not 3/8 OD on the h110 or 1/2OD on the h60!

    I originally was going to wrap the tubing in colored tubing, but I've decided it looks worse to do that. When getting tubing to match to do this, I found that the H110's OD was not 3/8, but actually 7/16. As in I bought 3/8 x 1/2, and it didnt cover over the tubes, but 7/16 x 9/16 did (an odd size that primochill, etc does not sell)

    The h60, again, I thought it was 1/2"OD but 1/2"ID tubing doesnt wrap around it, only 9/16 x 3/4 fits over it fully.

    I'd like to use a dark solid blue, to match my Z87x-ud3h and all the electric blue paracord sleeving in my build. I'm open to dying the liquid (espeicially for the h110 loop with the resevoir) but I think I'm leaning towards a solid dark blue tubing. I can use blue leds for the reservoir anyways. I'm okay with buying clear vinyl tubing as well, and dying it blue if I can't find the dark blue I want (pretty easy to do, I have the dye and done it many times before).

    I dont know what tubing I'd get, but the h60 tubing needs to be extremely flexible and non-kink since its on very tight since it's on my GPU. It already has kinks, which is okay because at full load, with an extreme overvolt, my load temps are 33C, but I mean I dont want some tubing that pinch tight when better tubing would just be a small kink. The h110 tubing isnt stressed so not as important for anti-kink.

    I messaged Asetek, Corsair, and Coolit for specifications - Corsair refused to answer my inquiry, Asetek said the h110 was about 5x10.5mm which just can't be right, yet to hear from Coolit.

    I think anti-kink coils are ugly so no on that.
  • Picking a decent, cheap reservoir. Something small and simple, really. I cant mount in the bays, I would simply attach it to the ground or right edge of the mobo tray. Small is fine. I mean I'll just take whatever recommendations here, not really a huge deal. I'm thinking of the swifttech micro res at the moment, $25.
  • Liquid. I have no idea what coolant or liquid to use, or antimicrobial, if I need to drain out out the existing liquid or not, if I can just add distilled water to the existing liquid, etc.
  • Clamps. Cable ties are ugly, so need something here. I actually really like the stock clamps, but I'm pretty sure you gotta break them to get to the tubing. I would be open to just gluing them back together and even gluing them to the tubing though, as I can hide the cut/broken side away from view. So i dunno what my options are here, or is that not a clamp and I dont even need clamps.
Thanks. Again I know the difficulty and how useless these mods are but its for aesthetics. As for 'why not get real water', thats way too expensive and the central theme of my build is keeping the cost low, heavy modification, DIY, and doing something different. As for 'why not just cover/sleeve the tubes', because it looks awful and there is an expectation of excellence here. I intend to win Overclock.net's Mod of the Month, I am not looking for shortcuts, I am looking for the best possible way to do this.

Believe me, when I realized I just had to bite the bullet and replace the tubing instead of trying to wrap the cables (an endeavor I've already spent ~$40 doing), I just like ughh not looking forward to that, but there's a right way and a lazy way to do things. I don't want something that only looks good in internet pictures and then looks 'okay' in real life. I've seen sleeved, covered, etc on tubing, and I'm sorry, it just doesn't look as good as the real deal. Some are close, but I don't think doubling the width of the tubing is as good as just replacing the tubing.

A loop for all this would be what, at minimum, universal gpu block 60, 280mm rad 60, pump 30(would probably use a pump + X combo but im sure thats +$30 to whatever combo item), cpu block 40, reservoir 25, fittings and acc at 20+ = $235+...

But again, this isn't necessarily about saving money, but doing things a different way, but focusing on a low cost, DIY manner for my build. There are tons of unique water cooling set-ups out there, but all of them are prohibitively expensive. I want to do something unique that's actually cheaper.

I REPEAT I AM AWARE THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDABLE AT ALL, I AM JUST ASKING FOR TECHNICAL DETAILS. I AM AN EXPERIENCED MODDER WITH A TRACK RECORD WHO IS WELL AWARE OF THE RISKS AND WORK INVOLVED

Thanks. Somehow I feel all I'm going to get here is 'not worth it, get h220' responses, so please prove me wrong (h220 = 120, replacing parts and selling original off, it'd be +$20 280mm rad, +60 gpu block, +20 tubing/acc = $220+ for no res). Compared to H60 2013 $30, H110 $90, res $25, tubing/acc $20 = $165.

Again I know this is not considered 'worthwhile' but it is not about performance, it is about aesthetics.
 
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So you are telling us you are an experienced modder looking to exchange your labor for a monetary savings to give comparable performance and look cool. I think that is why I started modding and OCing my stuff way back in the day, because I was too poor to afford the $1000 top clocked chip and had to buy something cheaper and then make it outperform the highest stock clocks.

I can provide no technical expertise, as no way I am hacking apart my own CLC, but wanted to let you know that I support and respect what you are doing. Getting the most out of the least has always been an Overclockers credo and a fun hobby to boot. Best of luck and I look forward to some more pics of your work in progress.
 
So you are telling us you are an experienced modder looking to exchange your labor for a monetary savings to give comparable performance and look cool.

Yes.

I can provide no technical expertise, as no way I am hacking apart my own CLC, but wanted to let you know that I support and respect what you are doing. Getting the most out of the least has always been an Overclockers credo and a fun hobby to boot. Best of luck and I look forward to some more pics of your work in progress.

Thanks, I always finish my projects and provide tons of pics.

Apparently these CLCs use propylene glycol, and Copper block + Aluminum Rad. So that's another headache I need to answer, especially since it needs to be clear OR blue (preferably blue... i think) and not red or some stupid color. I think propylene is always green, ethylene is always blue, so gotta figure that out.
 
I recall a review/ product announcement saying that the new larger tubing did not come with an increase in the tubing's ID, it is purely aesthetic. So you should be able to use the same tubing I used when I modified an H50.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tygon won't kink easily like other types of tubing. It is clear, but has no markings. I think I would have gone with blue if such an option existed, as I was considering a setup very similar to yours, same color scheme and everything.
 
:O

Where did you hear that? Could you link that? That would be news to me. It definitely appears larger:

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-...h-Performance-Liquid-CPU-Cooler-Deconstruct-0
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Definitely appear thicker, but I'm not sure.

I actually have a bunch of tygon E3603, i was going to use it for the whole wrapping-tubing thing before I decided to just replace the tubing. It can take dye, so you can make it dark blue, I'd recommend AGAINST using Rit as the new formulation is very weak, but Rit worked after it sat in it for like a week. I'm still unsure of whether to go with blue tubing or blue liquid.
 
Why do you say that?

Someone recommended I use Swiftech Hydrx PM2, which says its an anti-corrossive and has petroleum sodium sulfonate, which I was told was an anti-corrossive. It's recommended by swiftech for use in the h220, which doesnt mix metals.
 
No worries about dye fading over time/ as you add water. I wanted a solid color that was consistent. With solid tubing you won't have to worry about the interaction between your additives and the dye either.
 
hm, im looking into mayhem dyes, maybe pastel white + blue for a dark blue solid/pastel color with clear tubing. apparently it has anti-corossive in it.
 
I'm going to buy these I think for my replace-tubing of H60 2013/H110

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ing_Adapter_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c101s1306
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http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...G14_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028
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Black o-rings because the stock green on above fittings is ugly ;/

Mayhem Pastel Blueberry, X1 Blue Concentrate, Dark Blue Dye.
Primochill Advanced LRT clear 1/4 x 3/8, 3/8 x 1/2

However, 1 question left, about the reservoir, before I make a purchase - would a weak pump mean I can't use a certain reservoir, or any relationship? I mean a weak pump can pull from an ocean so... must be okay, right?

Because I thought the $25 swiftech micro res was my only option in my budget, but I didnt' see all the tube res' I could get for $30-40, which are awesome! The alphacool corp things, I might go for that instead of the micro res... there's the 10lt ($35) and 25lt($40) that seem to be in budget. I think I'll go for the small one, but want to make sure the big one would be okay too.

There's also a couple 'inline res'. Do these have to be run sideways like that, can I not just flip them over? And likewise, can I not run the alphacool tubes 'inline'? I'm a bit confused on that...

Any recommendations are appreciated :thumb:

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edit: on second thought, i think it'll look better if the order was changed to Block ->Res -> Rad -> Block so the tubing isn't reaching all through all the extensions and everything.
 
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