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change air filter to restore lost power? Did the autoshop fool me?

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One of the fastest easiest cheapest ways to improve performance
is to slap in a new set of plugs
That is assuming they haven't been changed in a while
and especially if you are burning oil etc. 😉

ps I don't know where you yahoos are buying your air filters but
in most cases it should be less than a 10 spot
 


<< if it took him like 1-2 minutes to figure out you needed a new air filter, $130 wouldnt seem justified..

did the mechanic do a thorough inspection? >>



I don't know. I told them the car is not running smoothly, and I wanted them to check the car thoroughly. But again, I can't supervise them......I think I am going back to that autoshop tomorrow....wish me luck 🙁
I get a feeling that I am gonna get ripped off again 🙁

 


<< Definetely try out the fuel injector cleaner stuff (its like $5 and you just add it to the gas tank when you fill up). >>




<< Maybe true an oil additive too (Lucas Oil makes really good ones, never tried them before, I've only used Duralube). >>


Save yourself some time and just take whatever money you were going to spend on those snake oils and set it on fire. Those products do nothing for your car. Terrible advice.
 


<<

<< if it took him like 1-2 minutes to figure out you needed a new air filter, $130 wouldnt seem justified..

did the mechanic do a thorough inspection? >>



I don't know. I told them the car is not running smoothly, and I wanted them to check the car thoroughly. But again, I can't supervise them......I think I am going back to that autoshop tomorrow....wish me luck 🙁
I get a feeling that I am gonna get ripped off again 🙁 >>

First of all if you want to have a less chance of getting ripped off bring it to a certified mechanic. Your car is a chevy? Bring to chevroley. Nissan? Bring there. Don't go to this place again unless you're going to ask why they charged you $130 for this. Don't pay them another penny. They are out to f**k you unless there is something here we don't know.
 


<< One of the fastest easiest cheapest ways to improve performance
is to slap in a new set of plugs
That is assuming they haven't been changed in a while
and especially if you are burning oil etc. 😉

ps I don't know where you yahoos are buying your air filters but
in most cases it should be less than a 10 spot >>



It's not so much that I want to improve performance, I know my car is underpowered anyway (it's a 4 cyclinder), I just want it to run smoothly and eliminate the trembling when stopping for red light.
 


<< well, how long did you leave the car at the mechanics? >>



I left it there for 3 days. So I guess they have more than enough time to determine what the problem is.
By the way, can any of you recommend an honest autoshop in LA area? I live in Temple City.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of auto repair!

You got ripped off!

I don't care if the mechanic did a 150 point checklist on your car. 130 c-notes for a friggin' air filter is criminal.
 
3 days and all they did was change air filter? I barely know how to change my own oil (never done it even), but even I can change an air filter! Lift off cap, put in filter, put cap back! By this I mean it should not have cost over $100 in labor.
 
OK, finished with the thread. I agree with Skoorb. For all but the most basic maintenance, and especially for driveability issues that you can?t solve yourself with a quick filter change, plug change and making sure it?s dry under the distributor cap, bring it to the dealership. They know Mazdas. The labor will be all of 20% more, but they will solve your problem the first time.
 
I paid 200 dollars for mine....it was a K&N performance air kit (filter, bracket, clamps, connectors) and installation though.
 
Well, the engine light was on, so I had to let them check the car. At that time, I also told them about how the car was running and wanted them to check to see if they can smooth out my car or not. They said the car has no problem except the sensor itself (they replaced that sensor, and it takes them 2 days to wait for that part). To address my concern about the car not running smoothly, they said they have changed the air filter and the car should run a lot better now.
 
On another note, a friend needed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt on his Saturn a few days ago. The Saturn dealership charged over $800 for this work. My friend had to pay only a deductable of $100 + $90 for the battery since it wasn't covered by the warranty. I remember buying rebuilt alternators for less than a $100 a few years back. What happened? Sheesh.

That's insane! What year car is it? Serpentine belt for my car, lifetime warranty - 10 bucks. Battery - 30 bucks. Alternator - 120 bucks. Didn't cost me a thing in labor because I did it myself (1996 Ford Taurus.) The alternator was a bit higher, but it had like a 75 buck core charge, IIRC.

 
Well if they did the sensor also and you paid $130 total maybe you didnt' get ripped.

I'd still say that for something as quirky as this bring it to the dealership. In my limited experience although you do pay a slight premium on labor you know that the car will get the proper treatment - and if they don't do it right the first time they'll fix it. Anybody can change oil, brakes, etc. but for work like this bring it to somebody who has worked on these cars and is paid the extra bucks to know his job. I'd rather pay $300 for a job well done than a half assed job at $200
 


<< It's not so much that I want to improve performance, I know my car is underpowered anyway (it's a 4 cyclinder), I just want it to run smoothly and eliminate the trembling when stopping for red light. >>


Oh, good God, you should have come to AT first before going to the mechanics! Older Mazda's are known to have issues with low idle speeds. What essentially happens is the low idles causes the engine to struggle to stay running at a smooth balanced speed. My MX-3 (also a Mazda) has the exact same problem. Typical idle should be about 600-800rpms. Mine idles at about 500 and trembles terribly unless I give it just a bit of gas to get the idle up.
 
Well, I had my car brought to dealers too. I even have them test-drive my car ( that's something I think is necessary, they wouldn't know what the car problem is until they get to drive the car) After 5 minutes test drive, the technician told me he didn't feel anything wrong with the car. WTF!! I've also tried other dealers near me to no avail.
 
Dude, if the engine light is on, definitely take it to the dealership. They have the right equipment to check the reason the light is on. Backyard-Billy's Buck-A-Roo Tire and Gas probably doesn't.

EDIT: Sorry, I feel bad for you. I think that Mazda tech was probably a freaking idiot. Why do only stupid people like to work on cars for a living? Grrrr!

EDIT 2: I mean cars are very complex machines with literally thousands of things that can go wrong. They need good people to take care of them.
 


<<

<< It's not so much that I want to improve performance, I know my car is underpowered anyway (it's a 4 cyclinder), I just want it to run smoothly and eliminate the trembling when stopping for red light. >>


Oh, good God, you should have come to AT first before going to the mechanics! I can tell you right away what the problem is. Older Mazda's are known to have low idle speeds. What essentially happens is the low idles causes the engine to struggle to stay running at a smooth balanced speed. My MX-2 (also a Mazda) has the exact same problem. Typical idle should be about 600-800rpms. Mine idles at about 500 and trembles terribly unless I give it just a bit of gas to get the idle up. >>



So how did you solve the problem? And my car isn't that old.....it's a 96' Mazda 626.....and yes, I do notice the low idle speed too...
 
Actually a slight bit of shaking, especially if it's an auto in gear, is normal for an inline 4. The I-4 is not the most naturally balanced engine out there. I don't even think the 2.0 L 626 engine has balance shafts (I may be wrong.) Did they replace the sensor the diagnostic indicated, and is the check engine light now off? You might not have been ripped after all.
 


<< Dude, if the engine light is on, definitely take it to the dealership. They have the right equipment to check the reason the light is on. Backyard-Billy's Buck-A-Roo Tire and Gas probably doesn't.

EDIT: Sorry, I feel bad for you. I think that Mazda tech was probably a freaking idiot. Why do only stupid people like to work on cars for a living? Grrrr!

EDIT 2: I mean cars are very complex machines with literally thousands of things that can go wrong. They need good people to take care of them. >>



Well, it's been a constant problem with the engine check light. It did came up before, I had the dealer run diagnostic...and they determined it was the sensor problem. So they replaced the sensor. But it was when my car was still under warranty. I started going to local autoshop ever since my car is out of warranty. The check light came up again last month, so as usual, I went to that autoshop..they also said it was the sensor problem. I didn't tell them I had them replaced before..maybe i am gonna address that tomorrow.
 
They pulled your car into their garage, they connected it to their multi-thousand dollar machine, did a series of diagnostic tests, retrieved and installed the filter on your car and retested to verify that the diagnosis was correct.

I don't think you could simply price out a filter from your local parts merchant and assume you were robbed.

For instance: Changing a 30gb hard drive = $200!? What a joke!
 
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