Caulking Flashing against brick

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

When you caulk Flashing to seal it against brick, do you leave the bead of caulk as it comes out the tube or do you smooth it over with your finger for a smooth transition from brick to covered flashing? Scenario would be a flat surface and not a corner 90* angle. I would think you smooth the caulk over the flashing so when it rains water doesn't build up and erode the brick or mortar cause of a thick bead of caulk, no?


Thanks for your time.

 

[Lost_in_the_HTTP]

Picture?

Ideally, the caulk would be under the flashing to seal it to the brick. On top of the flashing may not be effective. Also consider the direction of the seam and rainfall and the amount of exposure to weather.

The product might make a difference also. I've tried quite a few that said that sealed well, but broke down over time in sunlight, drying, cracking and separating, or just didn't bond well to begin with.

Recently I've been using Through The Roof and so far haven't had any issue. The stuff just sticks. I've only used the tubes so far:

 

[jmagg]

Masonry flashing shouldn't be caulked flat on to brick. Generally, a channel should be cut in to the joints, to slide the top of the flashing into (Z flashing) and then counter flashed under if need be (chimney).

 

[Lost_in_the_HTTP]

This is why we need pictures or a more detailed description of the issue. Cutting into the mortar might work if the flashing lines up with the joints. But you don't want to cut into the brick if the flashing has to run at an angle.

 

[jmagg]

This is why we need pictures or a more detailed description of the issue. Cutting into the mortar might work if the flashing lines up with the joints. But you don't want to cut into the brick if the flashing has to run at an angle.

This is when step flashing comes into play, with counter flashing under. Certain installations may need a angled masonry cut channel to embed the top of the flashing in to the brick. There are also termination strips.