Cast iron bath tub install: part 2

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
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So the second floor bathroom is done and I'm moving on to the first floor. I have an opportunity to pick up a barely used bath tub for $200. A cast iron enameled alcove tub with a front apron. Very similar to the one upstairs. A construction company installed it and then removed it, presumably an error on their part. Pretty good deal I'm thinking for an almost new CI tub.

I'm reading through the installation instructions here: http://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084177_2.pdf and this part stopped me dead in my tracks.
The bath must only be supported by the feet. Do not support the bath by the rim.

I actually called up Kohler tech support and asked them if the warning in these instructions actually meant to not use a ledger board. Kohler cautioned me that the tub is liable to crack if supported by the rim and it will void the warranty too if installed this way. Well then how are you going to level the tub was my question? A ledger board is an easy way to set the tub into the alcove, level the ledger board so when you hang the rim of tub on that, the tub is also level. We literally leveled our tub in 5 minutes before installation.

Kohler's response was to use metal shims under the feet. If I slide the tub into the alcove, the surrounding walls and the front apron prevent access to the feet for shimming. Meaning I need to move the tub for every adjustment. Meaning I need to wrestle hundreds of pounds of cast iron out of the way every time I need to insert a shim. With a house like mine, as old as it is, there is nothing straight or level on any of those floors/walls/ceilings etc...

This goes against 100 years of traditional cast iron bath tub installation procedure. They never dicked around with shims under the feet. I also dont like how hundreds of pounds of weight is pressed into the 4 small feet. I feel as if the wooden subfloor will compress at the points of these 4 small feet and slightly sink the tub over the years.

My plumber was in disbelief when I spoke to him about this. His solution was to install a ledger board anyway for the purposes of leveling the tub. But pour a mortar base under the tub anyway for purposes of supporting it under the feet and base. He said normally you dont need mortar for CI, its way overkill to mortar a CI tub. But this is the only place he would mortar one considering the strange installation requirements of this tub.

The price of this tub makes it attractive but I'm reluctant to buy when thinking about the installation hassles of using shims under the feet. I like my plumber's solution, which seems to get around all of this. The mortar is extra weight which I will have to budget for when I look at the joists/subfloor condition. What do you guys think? Should I avoid the tub or buy it and mortar under it?
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
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Huh. I'm pretty sure the tub in my parents' house is sitting on its feet (apron style) and it was installed in the 40's. I'm no pro but hanging a few hundred pound tub on a ledger board just seems like a bad idea. Add in the weight of water.....
 

Humpy

Diamond Member
Mar 3, 2011
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It's an age old dilemma. It's pretty hard to get a plumber to do anything but the simple method of using a ledger while boasting they've never had a problem.

The feet set on steel plates over a subfloor with supporting blocking won't settle, nor should the floor move differentially to the wall, enough to exceed the capabilities of the caulk joint at the tile, but sometimes it does. People have come up with all sorts of other methods combining a ledger with a mortar puddle or setting the feet in little trays of epoxy or attempting to measure themselves into a solution with lasers and straightedges and whatever.

The challenge is if the installer can figure out how to do it according to spec and if the owner is convinced it matters enough to spend the money. 99 times out of 100 the chosen course of action is to slide the tub onto a ledger and caulk the shit out of it.
 
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MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
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There seems to be two different issues here. The biggest is attempting to install a cast iron tub on an inadequate /improperly installed floor. It is not normal for a cast iron tub to "settle." Unless your floor is horribly out of level, there is little need to level your tub in the first place. Finally, the tub itself is the easiest tool to use to level it. I do want to ask how many times you regularly take baths with the water within a half inch of the rim? :)
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
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How anal do you have to be to level a bathtub with anything but your eye?


Finally, the tub itself is the easiest tool to use to level it. I do want to ask how many times you regularly take baths with the water within a half inch of the rim? :)

This is about setting straight and level, arguably the longest line in a bathroom: the edge of the bath tub. Upon this line, a tiled wall will be also set and using the edge of the bath tub as a reference. If the tub is not level, the tiled wall will either have a gap on one side or the grout lines will have a visible slant. Using a level, a tool so quick and easy to use is hardly anal. This is about making the bathroom look good, not filling the tub to capacity.

There seems to be two different issues here. The biggest is attempting to install a cast iron tub on an inadequate /improperly installed floor. It is not normal for a cast iron tub to "settle." Unless your floor is horribly out of level, there is little need to level your tub in the first place.

Correct in that the tub foundation needs to be adequately prepared and set to straight. But this is not new construction and deviations are normal, hence the need for shimming. Even new construction sometimes needs to be shimmed. In any event, the current floor will be corrected and reinforced where needed. Regarding the settling, hundreds of pounds of weight will be resting on 4 small feet points. When pressed into wood, that small area will deform and over the years, the tub will settle in to these indentations left by the feet and open up a gap. It seems that even if the surface is level, it would be prudent to at least put metal shims to better resist these pressures and protect the wooden subfloor.

So we get back to my point. Shimming is usually necessary and the easiest way to shim is by a ledgerboard. Otherwise, shimming the bathtub feet is a huge pain in the ass that requires moving the tub for every shim placement/adjustment. Sometimes you even have to shim the apron; still a pain but far easier than shimming the feet.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
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The eye is a better tool in this case if you're simply trying to match the tile line. Wood is a foolish material to use as bathroom flooring. I have indeed seen properly installed tubs settle...after a hundred years. An inflatable appliance pillow powered by a shop vac is the easiest way to lift the tub to shim without having to pull it out. Remember, cleanliness is next to godliness not, mathematics.
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
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The eye is a better tool in this case if you're simply trying to match the tile line. Wood is a foolish material to use as bathroom flooring. I have indeed seen properly installed tubs settle...after a hundred years. An inflatable appliance pillow powered by a shop vac is the easiest way to lift the tub to shim without having to pull it out. Remember, cleanliness is next to godliness not, mathematics.


The tile has yet to be installed. This is a full gut job down to the studs. Demolition is almost complete. Bathtub is going in first and then tile will be set around it.

The bathtub will be set on the wooden SUBfloor, there is no wood finished floor. The metal protecting the wood will be betwen the tub feet and the subfloor.

Do you have a link to an appliance pillow? Looked up a few and they are complete systems (pillow and blower) $500 and up... Reluctant to spend for another tool to help me shim tub feet. Id rather just buy a new CI tub that can be set on a ledger board than one that needs to have its feet shimmed... Otherwise, its a useful tool to have for moving appliances or other heavy stuff.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
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You can rent the appliance pillows. Check around. Do not set the tub on the sub floor! Doing so simply provides an easy path for water to damage it and worse, hides the damage til too late. You set the tub on the finished floor. Am I misunderstanding? Are you building a surround for the tub? If so, why?
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
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You can rent the appliance pillows. Check around. Do not set the tub on the sub floor! Doing so simply provides an easy path for water to damage it and worse, hides the damage til too late. You set the tub on the finished floor. Am I misunderstanding? Are you building a surround for the tub? If so, why?


You set the tub onto subfloor and then tile in front of the tub up to the apron. Im not going to tile or put finished floor under the tub! If the tub leaks, having subfloor or finished floor under wont make a lick of difference...

This is what is called a alcove tub. Like this: http://www.akerbymaax.com/~/media/images/products/horizontal/bathtub-to2954-3060-2.jpg
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
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You know, I'll bet the cast iron isn't nearly as thick as it used to be. Maybe that's why the manufacturer is telling you to make sure the feet are properly supported.
 

crashtech

Lifer
Jan 4, 2013
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If the bathtub can be assumed to have pretty tight production tolerances (this could be measured), the shims can be placed beforehand using a level. Settling will decrease the accuracy of this, but some 6x6" metal plates can be attached to the subfloor as load spreaders, that will minimize settling and the feet sinking into the subfloor.
 

Humpy

Diamond Member
Mar 3, 2011
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So we get back to my point. Shimming is usually necessary and the easiest way to shim is by a ledgerboard. Otherwise, shimming the bathtub feet is a huge pain in the ass that requires moving the tub for every shim placement/adjustment. Sometimes you even have to shim the apron; still a pain but far easier than shimming the feet.

Is the plumber also overwrought with worry about installing some shims or just you? :)

If you are unwilling to provide access to easily install according to the manufacturer then get another tub or ignore the instructions. Or, if the tub wobbles lift it up a little and slide a shim under one foot in so it stops and move on to something else.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
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You set the tub onto subfloor and then tile in front of the tub up to the apron. Im not going to tile or put finished floor under the tub! If the tub leaks, having subfloor or finished floor under wont make a lick of difference...

This is what is called a alcove tub. Like this: http://www.akerbymaax.com/~/media/images/products/horizontal/bathtub-to2954-3060-2.jpg
I've never seen that type of tub with feet. You can set it using foam. Do a quick level side to side and front to back. It's up to the tile man to make it look good. All the talk about feet had me thinking claw foot.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,622
5,730
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While you have it out, think about insulating the tub. We did that with our kohler like yours.
It made a difference on the heat loss. I'm not a soaker so it was not really useful, but my wife tested it out.
We used about $25 of the great stuff foam in a can.
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
While you have it out, think about insulating the tub. We did that with our kohler like yours.
It made a difference on the heat loss. I'm not a soaker so it was not really useful, but my wife tested it out.
We used about $25 of the great stuff foam in a can.


Great idea. Im sure it keeps the water warmer longer. Thanks...