• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Carry over lenses from Canon SLR to DSLR?

yottabit

Golden Member
Hi all! I have a rather noobish question. My girlfriend is looking to get back into photography and wants to get into a DSLR but has a budget of about $500. She also has a Canon Rebel 35mm SLR with an autofocus lens, and I believe it's a fairly recent camera (newer than 2000)

It looks like we could probably get a Rebel XS (10.1 MP first Gen) kit for around $500 with lens, but could get something like a Rebel T1i (15 MP, HD Video) for around $500 minus lens.

Can she use the lens from her film SLR to start off with on the DSLR? I've been told by someone that worked at the store that it will work, but she'll be missing out on the image stabilization. Is this true, and how critical is this? How are the lenses that come bundled in these kits?

The way I was thinking about it is if the lens will work, we should buy the better digital camera, because I'm guessing she'll want to buy more lenses when the money is available anyway. I'm sorry I don't have the model number of the camera and lens right now, if you need that information I can get it tomorrow.
 
Hmm. I'm a little concerned about the "cropping" mentioned using an EF lens on an EF-S camera. I wonder what that means? As in if it's actually losing pixels, or just changing the zoom. I guess the most surefire way to find out would be to just take her lens into the store with us and slap it on a camera.
 
Interesting. Here's a nice article explaining it:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html

So the "cropping factor" will change the focal lengths. Essentially if she has a 20-30mm lens, and the camera she buys has a 1.6 cropping factor, it will effectively act as a 32-48mm lens. I'll have to ask what kind of focal lengths she wants and see if this works.

Is there any credence to losing the image stabilization? Is that in the lens or the camera?
 
The typical lens which was sold with a film camera will work with a DSLR, but there will be an important gap which is filled by the DSLR kit lens.

Budget DSLRs have a so-called "crop factor", which relates the size of the imaging sensor to 35mm film -- it's smaller, so the field of view is narrower. For Canon, this crop factor is 1.6 times, which means that a 28-75mm lens mounted on a budget DSLR will have a field of view of 1.6*28 - 1.6* 75, which is about 45-120. This means that the "wide angle" field of view of 28mm on the film camera is lost, and the widest you get with the same lens on a crop DSLR is like a 45mm lens would be on the film SLR.

This means that to get a decent wide-angle field of view on a crop DSLR, you must get what would have been an ultra-wide angle lens on a film SLR. Such lenses used to be rare and expensive, but are now cheaply available as kit lenses with DSLRs, because they're needed.

For Canon, the most common kit lens is the 18-55 EF-S IS. It's certainly worth getting for the small incremental cost (around $100), because that range is important, and alternatives are much more expensive.

IS is not critical on a kit lens, but the Canon kit lens with IS in this case happens to be optically better than the previous generation kit lens without IS.
 
I guess the most surefire way to find out would be to just take her lens into the store with us and slap it on a camera.

This is a good idea. Take the film body too, and compare what you see in the viewfinder with the same lens on the DSLR. This can be a great way to understand and internalize the crop factor effect.
 
This is a good idea. Take the film body too, and compare what you see in the viewfinder with the same lens on the DSLR. This can be a great way to understand and internalize the crop factor effect.

Thanks for the input! And will do. It sounds like we'll either be happy with the range of her lens on there, or get a free zoom lens out of it, so either way it's a win win 🙂
 
What lens is it? Likely, it won't be very good compared to a modern design.

Thats a load of horse shit. I'd take an old Canon EF mount any day over a similar current gen lens simply because the IQ would be at least as good, and it would be less expensive. Inexpensive lenses produced today tend to be much "cheaper" that is made with plastic and not solidly built, etc.

Canon EF series hasn't really made a bad lens. Some say the nifty-fifty is poor, but honestly its so cheap that it doesn't matter that you can only drop it exactly once before it breaks. THe IQ out of that $100 lens is so awesome that its a no brainer.

The photographer makes the picture by the way. The camera is a tool in his/her arsenal. Just as the canvas and paintbrush and paint do not make the portrait.

The 75-300mm is slow but usable in daylight, and for stuff like the zoo. Don't even think about doing dark concerts or anything like serious action sports. at f/5.6 at the furthest zoom its really not gonna happen.

the 18-55 EF-S is the kit lens. You can expect kit lens quality out of it. Its a good lens.

The difference betwixt the EF-S and the EF is that the EF-S is the "short focus" version. Because of the smaller (relative to the 35mm frame) APS-C sensor, the closer proximity to the sensor yields an identical effective focal length.

The EF-S lenses fit only the xxD and Digital Rebel series of cameras (i.e. Pro-sumer and consumer level - the xD is the Professional level and won't take an EF-S because its sensor is full-frame). The distance between the rear of the lens and the sensor is shorter than for EF lenses. It's possible to reduce the distance on those cameras because they have a sensor that is smaller than 35mm, along with a smaller mirror. If it were possible to attach an EF-S lens to a "full size" digital camera, I suspect the mirror would crash into the back of the lens when it comes up.

Honestly my wife doesn't use IS at all. If something is at that far of a focal length or dark, she just whips out the tripod and gets a better picture anyways. Besides she uses mostly older L lenses without all that mumbo-jumbo.

I find it useful on the 55-250 lens doing wildlife. It corrects "your" camera shake from your hands by a couple stops. It doesn't fix the vehicle you are ins movement, it doesn't fix subject movement. So say you have a shot that is properly exposed at 120mm f/8 1/100. Common sense says don't take it, 1/100 is slower than the 120mm focal length so is likely to be blurry due to camera shake. It's less than a stop off so you can just flip on IS and take the shot and it'll be fine. The brand spankin newest L lenses have 4 stop IS so in theory you could take one at 250mm f/8 1/50 or so.


Take all that with a grain of salt though - your SO is not my SO, and your needs differ. I still use a Digital Rebel XT (hand me down from when my wife was not a pro) - she's moved on and does a lot of film now, but still uses digital daily with a pro level camera.

I find the whiz-bang features are a bit overwhelming, and the most important thing that you want out of it - is a picture. Will the gadgetry help you get the picture or will it get in the way? A lot of photography is learning how to see and exposure. I bet she won't miss the features in the T1I at all. HD video is great but IMHO is a gimmick.

Also - though great strides are made: Generally speaking more MP is more noise and thus less usable ISO. In my wifes old 50d that sits on a shelf she found that out quickly. Compared to the 40d it is a full stop or 2 less usable on ISO for a couple more MP.

10.1 is a LARGE picture and on the XS you can easily get an 8x10 crop. My XT has 8MP and serves my needs just fine (that is to pretend I'm a good photographer and wish I had the talent that comes inherently to an artist such as my wife).
 
Last edited:
It really depends on the lens. For example, the EF 35-80mm, 28-80mm, and 28-90mm have all been included as kit lenses on mid to low-end film SLRs and all of them are generally considered subpar. Poor optical quality and poor build quality. Not only that, but the focal lengths on a crop sensor will not be terribly useful.

As mentioned previously, the 18-55mm IS is a great "starter" lens for a digital Rebel. The build quality is still low-end but it has good optics, especially for the price. Avoid the non-IS version - I haven't used it, but virtually everything I have read says the IS version has better image quality.

Also, here's a tip: Canon will give you big discounts on refurbed SLRs if you trade in an old camera (even broken ones). I believe T1i kits currently go for $480 when in stock, and these are refurbished by Canon so they should be like new. Check here for info: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212129
 
There is nothing wrong with starting out with kit lens. And, it has been know that starting out with a 50mm prime lens will make you learn to move for composition instead of using zoom.

I started out with a lowly Canon AV-1 & a 50mm in the 80s and won 3 photography contests with it (1 were for the entire country of Canada), won 1 photo contest with a basic AE-1 & 50mm, and won 1 contest with the EOS 10s & 28~105mm zoom (considerably the worst lens that Canon ever made).

IMHO, it is the photographer that make the picture not so much the camera, because most lens produce decent pictures at roughly f/8, f/11. There is also built quality and feels as well, because it could be a factor that encourage you to carry the camera around to take pictures. Hence, most photographer drift toward better lens and camera bodies as their skill advance.
 
Also, here's a tip: Canon will give you big discounts on refurbed SLRs if you trade in an old camera (even broken ones). I believe T1i kits currently go for $480 when in stock, and these are refurbished by Canon so they should be like new. Check here for info: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212129
Thank you for the head up!

I just called Canon Canada & they told me that I'll get 15% off (refurbish & new cameras). Not as good as American 20% off but better than a swift kick in the arse.
 
Thats a load of horse shit. I'd take an old Canon EF mount any day over a similar current gen lens simply because the IQ would be at least as good, and it would be less expensive. Inexpensive lenses produced today tend to be much "cheaper" that is made with plastic and not solidly built, etc.

Canon EF series hasn't really made a bad lens. Some say the nifty-fifty is poor, but honestly its so cheap that it doesn't matter that you can only drop it exactly once before it breaks. THe IQ out of that $100 lens is so awesome that its a no brainer.

It really depends on the lens. For example, the EF 35-80mm, 28-80mm, and 28-90mm have all been included as kit lenses on mid to low-end film SLRs and all of them are generally considered subpar. Poor optical quality and poor build quality. Not only that, but the focal lengths on a crop sensor will not be terribly useful.\
:colbert:
 
Budget DSLRs have a so-called "crop factor",

Considering FX cameras are generally the most expensive and largest DSLRs available, I don't think its fair to generalize all DSLRs having a crop factor as "budget". While it is true that all budget DSLRs are cropped, only the highest end DSLRs have FX sensors, and those cameras are thousands of dollars.
 
Considering FX cameras are generally the most expensive and largest DSLRs available, I don't think its fair to generalize all DSLRs having a crop factor as "budget". While it is true that all budget DSLRs are cropped, only the highest end DSLRs have FX sensors, and those cameras are thousands of dollars.

Thank you for emphasizing my point -- budget DSLRs have a crop factor.
 
Thank you for emphasizing my point -- budget DSLRs have a crop factor.

I wouldn't call my D300S a budget camera simply because it isn't blessed with a FX sensor. DSLRs are ranked based on feature sets, and the sensor is only one part of the equation.
 
I think someone needs to bust out a Venn diagram here.

I'll lay off. I didn't mean to say that DX sensors were equivilant. FX sensors are obviously superior. I just didn't like the insinuation that all crop sensor cameras (DX) were budget, therefore "cheap" or otherwise universally inferior. In most cases, with the exception of low light, in the right hands a DX camera with the right lens can virtually the same level of quality as a FX camera, assuming the camera has the features needed for a particular shot.

Happy shooting 😛
 
I'll lay off. I didn't mean to say that DX sensors were equivilant. FX sensors are obviously superior. I just didn't like the insinuation that all crop sensor cameras (DX) were budget, therefore "cheap" or otherwise universally inferior. In most cases, with the exception of low light, in the right hands a DX camera with the right lens can virtually the same level of quality as a FX camera, assuming the camera has the features needed for a particular shot.

Happy shooting 😛

English, do you understand it?

He said "budget DSLRs have cropped sensors." Not "cropped sensor cameras are budget DSLRs."
 
Thanks for all the input guys! She ended up picking up the Rebel XS kit through walmart for $478. I got to play with it today and boy is it nice to have all those features at your hands again. I haven't been able to enjoy manual focus since taking Photography in high school!

Some test shots:
2epo93m.jpg

erk3uv.jpg


Haven't actually tried her old lens on it yet, but we'll have to fool around with that later.

BTW, there's not many things I do from day to day that have a noticeable difference between using my laptop or HTPC and my gaming computer, scrolling through these 10 MP pictures is one of them 😀
 
Last edited:
Do not discount Canon's "dpp" digital photo pro for developing RAWs.

Thanks for the tip! I was checking out the raw settings earlier today and told her that's what she should shoot in for highest quality, but I honestly had no idea how to process them 😛

It does look like a pretty powerful utility
 
Back
Top