• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Car trouble...

V

Viperoni

Lifer
Car: 1986 Pontiac Parisienne (The Boat)
Just hit 200k
Car has 305 chevy, AC, 700-r4 tranny, block heater yadda yadda yadda

Problem is recent hard starting in the cold Canadian mornings we have up here (eh? 😉).
Sometimes it starts up fine, but increasingly it gives almost like a "flooded engine" kinda start, except it's "easy" to "unflood" it. I dunno how else to describe it, except that it's almost like it's just a bit flooded.

I have a 99% feeling that the EGR valve needs replacement (it's the original), because when I move the valve up with my hand, nothing happens. It looks like it opens fine when you rev the engine over ~2500rpm, or somewhere around there.
Also the car will ping when you press the gas too hard in 4th OD.

And also when the engine/trannies still cold, and I'm driving, there's a noise that seems to be coming from the engine bay...a hollowy kinda resonance kinda sound......almost like the tranny's not liking the cold. I heard the same kinda sound in an old taxicab when it was accelerating (the noise only comes out when accelerating).

So my question:
#1: Is the EGR valve the likely cause of my problems?
#2: After 5-7years could my block heater have hung up it's gloves?

Thanks 🙂
 
200k miles on a pontiac? wow i'm impressed.

wish i could help you on this.. when it comes to cars though- my knowledge runs out after adding stickers.
 
Wish I could help you out. I have a boat too, it is a 1975 monte carlo, but only has 58K miles on it. It doesn't much like to move right after you start it, even when it is warm out.

Good luck.
 
Make sure the choke closes 100%. It's probably sticking open a tiny bit. Use kerosene or WD40 to wash the gum out of the linkage and pivot points, and lube it up a bit. Also, make sure the choke pull off is functioning correctly. It should allow the choke to close fully while you crank it cold, yet pull it open about 1/8" (via vacuum) after it starts.
 
Yup, 200k (miles) 😀
thread with odo pics



<< wish i could help you on this.. when it comes to cars though- my knowledge runs out after adding stickers. >>



Would a Type P sticker help me much? I'm just looking for a bit more bass outta my subs is all 🙁



<< Wish I could help you out. I have a boat too, it is a 1975 monte carlo, but only has 58K miles on it. It doesn't much like to move right after you start it, even when it is warm out. >>



Talk about low k's!
I actually saw a 87 Caprice with only ~3k miles selling for $12,500 CAD.
DAMM!



<< Make sure the choke closes 100%. It's probably sticking open a tiny bit. Use kerosene or WD40 to wash the gum out of the linkage and pivot points, and lube it up a bit. Also, make sure the choke pull off is functioning correctly. It should allow the choke to close fully while you crank it cold, yet pull it open about 1/8" (via vacuum) after it starts. >>



I'm 99% sure it's not the choke since the carb was replaced with a rebuilt one last year, but it might be.
I'll give it a check thursday (tommorrow I have to wake up early for school, thursday I dont).

But what do you think of the EGR valve?
It should change engine rpm's when I open it up by hand at idle, right?
 
"...what do you think of the EGR valve?
It should change engine rpm's when I open it up by hand at idle, right?"

Fvck that thing! Make sure it completely closes. Use needle nose pliers to work it's shaft open and closed. If you apply vacuum to it's diaphragm, it should open. You should be able to see it move the shaft backward with vacuum. make sure it fully closes using your pliers. Then disconnect it and seal the hose. Be done with it! It only is supposed to open at highway speeds with hi vacuum. Screw it! Just make sure it's sealed closed and disconnect it.
 


<< i get that 'hollowy resonance' sound at about 40-60km/h sometimes, more often when you accel hard and it's colder out. >>



That's it, except it happened this morning while accelerating normally. And it's been doing it for most of the winter. It's nothing really worrysome....but I dont like noises that I suppose shouldn't be there :Q



<< Fvck that thing! Make sure it completely closes. Use needle nose pliers to work it's shaft open and closed. If you apply vacuum to it's diaphragm, it should open. You should be able to see it move the shaft backward with vacuum. make sure it fully closes using your pliers. Then disconnect it and seal the hose. Be done with it! It only is supposed to open at highway speeds with hi vacuum. Screw it! Just make sure it's sealed closed and disconnect it. >>



Believe me if it WAS up to me there'd be a EGR block off plate already on there. Yet my at-times dense dad wants to get a real EGR valve. Needless to say I wish I had $75 to throw around like that 😱
As far as I can tell it does open fine when I rev the engine (you can easily see it opening up, and then closing when you rev back down).
but when I pull it up @ idle there's absolutely no change.

Also, I shoulda mentioned the engines shakes at idle (shakes the car).
It shakes worse after revving the engine high (say 4k or so).
It stop shaking when revved to a bit more than off idle.

 


<< That's it, except it happened this morning while accelerating normally. And it's been doing it for most of the winter. It's nothing really worrysome....but I dont like noises that I suppose shouldn't be there >>

if it makes any difference, my car's a pontiac with over 200k on it 😀
 
"Also, I shoulda mentioned the engines shakes at idle (shakes the car)."

One plug is missing. Use a timing light to see if you can pinpoint which one, and replace the plug and/or wire for that cylinder. Could be the distributor cap too. There might be a carbon trace from one pole to another.

If that EGR is opening and closing, it's probably OK, but I'm not sure. You could block the hose without it being visible, you know? 😉 Then again, it may not be seating fully inside. What a hassle that crap is!
 


<<

<< That's it, except it happened this morning while accelerating normally. And it's been doing it for most of the winter. It's nothing really worrysome....but I dont like noises that I suppose shouldn't be there >>

if it makes any difference, my car's a pontiac with over 200k on it 😀 >>



😀



<< One plug is missing. Use a timing light to see if you can pinpoint which one, and replace the plug and/or wire for that cylinder. Could be the distributor cap too. There might be a carbon trace from one pole to another. >>



Dammit a missfire? The wires are 3 years old so I could see them being a problem, but the rotor and distributor cap and plugs are only ~8months old.



<< If that EGR is opening and closing, it's probably OK, but I'm not sure. You could block the hose without it being visible, you know?
Then again, it may not be seating fully inside. What a hassle that crap is! >>



That's what I think it is, not seating fully inside (burned up probably) and leaking exhaust to the intake when it's not supposed to. That would also explain the sluggish acceleration (as in, only when you first punch the gas it usually hesitates, but after the hesitation, it will pickup).
Also if it's any indication, I can barely peel off a stop, and I can't brake stand/brake torque to get the tires to spin AT ALL.
I should be able to do something with 250lb/ft @ 2400rpm, no?

 
Car started fine today, but it made that resonancy kinda sound when cold....it's almost like the noise is overlaid on top of the engines regular noise.....I'm beginning to wonder if it's the tranny making that noise when it's cold?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top