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Car Stereo Thread

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S70: Stock Volvo Alpine-manufactured Dolby Pro-Logic II head unit with stock Dynaudio speakers. All-in-all a nice setup.
951: Sony CDX-GT510 with unknown speakers (upgrade by a previous owner, CDX-GT510 bought by me when the CDX-C880 installed by the PO died, I just wanted simple plug-and-go, so I stuck with Sony).

I don't care enough to bother with anything fancier.

ZV
 
Alpine IVA-W200 Double DIN Indash DVD
MB Quart PAB 4100 (100x4)
MB Quart PAB 1200.1D (1200x1, Currently not installed)
Focal 165v2 6.5" components
Boston Acoustics 6.5" coax
2 10" JL Audio 10w6v1 in sealed box (Currently not installed)
SecondSkin Damplifier - All 4 doors, rear deck, trunk lid
 
Originally posted by: jtvang125
Alpine IVA-W200 Double DIN Indash DVD
MB Quart PAB 4100 (100x4)
MB Quart PAB 1200.1D (1200x1, Currently not installed)
Focal 165v2 6.5" components
Boston Acoustics 6.5" coax
2 10" JL Audio 10w6v1 in sealed box (Currently not installed)
SecondSkin Damplifier - All 4 doors, rear deck, trunk lid

So it's worth it to dampen the rear deck? I'm guessing I should leave the holes where speakers would be, right?

 
Originally posted by: minendo
Deck: Clarion VRX775
Front: Memphis Audio 15-MSYNC6
Rear: Memphis Audio MC 15-MC6
AMP: JL 300.4
Sub: JL 12W3
Amp: JL Slash 250.1

The Deck
The Sub <-- Now fires straight back
The Amps

I like your style


Deck: Alpine something
Front: JL component something's
Rear: Empty
Sub: 1x Jl12w3
Amp1: jl 500.1
Amp2: jl 300/2
 
Eclipse 8443 CD player with MP3 player input
Focal component speakers
PPI 2x75watt amp
JBL 1200.1 subwoofer amp
Sony ES 12" subs in 2.5 cu ft sealed box
Stinger RCA wires
12gauge wiring or larger wiring throughout
Over 100ft^sq of sound deadening material (stereo is VERY quiet outside the car)

This was in an integra... very loud setup. i love it
 
An issue I've noticed after sound dampening my trunk:

The sound in the car is much better, and I can tell it clearly makes a difference in sound quality.

However, my trunk seems to rattle MORE now. Does the sound tend to bounce around in there until it finds a spot without deadening?
 
Originally posted by: shocksyde
An issue I've noticed after sound dampening my trunk:

The sound in the car is much better, and I can tell it clearly makes a difference in sound quality.

However, my trunk seems to rattle MORE now. Does the sound tend to bounce around in there until it finds a spot without deadening?

Likely its just that you notice it more now. If not, the weight of the mat can cause edges to droop and make it easier for rattles. I spent 15 hours looking for all the rattles in my hatch in my integra
 
Well before it was stolen, I had an Eclipse (2005 model I believe) 8V preout head unit, a Zapco Z400-C4SL highs amp, MB Quart components, and a Zapco Studio 500 powering an Eclipse Titanium Cone 15" in a 3cf custom sealed box. God I miss that system...
 
Originally posted by: scott916
Well before it was stolen, I had an Eclipse (2005 model I believe) 8V preout head unit, a Zapco Z400-C4SL highs amp, MB Quart components, and a Zapco Studio 500 powering an Eclipse Titanium Cone 15" in a 3cf custom sealed box. God I miss that system...

That blows dude. I'm so glad I live in the middle of nowhere.
 
Originally posted by: jdoggg12
Originally posted by: shocksyde
An issue I've noticed after sound dampening my trunk:

The sound in the car is much better, and I can tell it clearly makes a difference in sound quality.

However, my trunk seems to rattle MORE now. Does the sound tend to bounce around in there until it finds a spot without deadening?

Likely its just that you notice it more now. If not, the weight of the mat can cause edges to droop and make it easier for rattles. I spent 15 hours looking for all the rattles in my hatch in my integra

I hate rattles.

1. It sounds like shit to anyone outside of the car
B. Everyone then knows you have a subwoofer (the reason I turn it down at stop lights and in parking lots).
 
In my Mazda MX-3:

60watt x 4 head unit with OLCD display, plays mp3 and wma files as well as CDs. Sub Out goes back to my 600watt amp with crossed stereo channels for maximum power output going to two 10" subs in a custom sealed two chamber box (hand made to look like it was meant to be there). It is VERY accurate bass. I spent days adjusting the levels, and I tune it up every 2-4 weeks or so.

I spent maybe 400 dollars on it, 200+ of that being the head unit. I did good for my budget! 🙂
 
Originally posted by: manowar821
Sub Out goes back to my 600watt amp with crossed stereo channels for maximum power output going to two 10" subs in a custom sealed two chamber box (hand made to look like it was meant to be there).

Bridged, you mean?

 
Well, I finally got the new components in the door w/ sound deadening. Awesome, is all I can say. And it'll get better, because my amp hasn't arrived yet for the comps. Right now they're running on half their rated power.

Up next, car PC? hmmm....
 
some pioneer mp3/wma deck.. cant remember the model number off hand
Alpine MRD1005 1000.1rms amplifier
boston accoustics ba-105 components up front
2x12" kicker comp CVR2 in a slot ported box tuned to 23hz
 
alpine 9857
jbl gto 75.4 (102x4; 280x2 @4ohm)
boston pro60 6.5" components
8" image dynamics id8 sub in small sealed enclosure
attached to iPod


some door deadening..but it does not seem to do much
 
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