• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Car Steering Wheel is Tough. Any suggestion?

Kroze

Diamond Member
It's a problem that i'm experiencing mostly in cold weathers. Like on a cold day, my steering wheel is really tough to steer. It will not return to neutral once it is steer in a direction, I have to steer it back to neutral or else the car would keep on going in a circle. On a hot day (60-70 degrees), the steering wheel feels somewhat better and sometimes seems like there's nothing wrong at all.

Have any of you guys have this symtom with your car? What can i do to fix it?

P.S.
I have a broken CV Joint Boot but this fat guy said that it has nothing to do with the steering. He said that I should get the steering column or something replaced with a new one. Is this true that the CV Joint boot has nothing to do with the steering wheel being tough and unable to return to neutral?
 
The CV joint boot likely has little to do with it, but driving around with the boot broken isn't very smart. You're going to trash your CV joint.

Have you checked your power steering fluid? Maybe your PS pump is dying.
 
The power steering fluid has always been full. How do i check to see if the PS pump is still functioning properly?

Oh yea. I think the CV Boot Joint has always been broken (about a year now). If the car make no sound when i steers left and right, do i need to just change the Boot? Or is it smarter to change the whole assembly? I'm asking this is because the mechanic said that he will charge me $85 to change the boot & labor. $180 to change the whole assembly with part + labor.
 


<< The CV joint boot likely has little to do with it, but driving around with the boot broken isn't very smart. You're going to trash your CV joint.

Have you checked your power steering fluid? Maybe your PS pump is dying.
>>


Ditto
 


<< I'm asking this is because the mechanic said that he will charge me $85 to change the boot & labor. $180 to change the whole assembly with part + labor. >>



Well if he is using a normal boot, and you don't hear a grinding noise when you steer, then go for just the boot change. However, I have never met a mechanic that would just change the boot on a CV joint because of all the labor involved in pulling that joint apart, bearings and all. They want to change the whole assembly at one time. What he might be thinking of is not disassembling the CV joint, and putting a "split" boot on. Basically this is a boot that is cut on one side to allow it to be installed without dislodging the CV joint, adding grease, then putting a thin metal strip around the boot and tightening it with a screw. This method is not recommended, because these "split" boots often leak and you end up having to disassemble the CV joint at some pt. in the future anyway.

 
You need a larger steering wheel. Using the formula, Torque = LeverArm * Force, if you increase the length of the lever arm, the steering wheel will require less force in order to rotate 🙂

Seriously, I have this EXACT same problem! I have an 87 GrandAm. I'm very curiuos if anyone knows anything about it because I think it's my Power Steering Pump.
 


<< You need a larger steering wheel. Using the formula, Torque = LeverArm * Force, if you increase the length of the lever arm, the steering wheel will require less force in order to rotate 🙂

Seriously, I have this EXACT same problem! I have an 87 GrandAm. I'm very curiuos if anyone knows anything about it because I think it's my Power Steering Pump.
>>



LOL. I have enough of physics in school. Don't need anymore of it right now.
 


<< I have a broken CV Joint Boot but this fat guy said that it has nothing to do with the steering. >>




That is hilarious. 😀
 
I would change the whole cv shaft, not just the boot.
That way you get professionally assembled and checked CV assembly, not some guy messing around with it and taking off the boot. For 100 difference, do you really want to take the chance?
Also, you should buy a remanufactured CV assembly and return your core at auto-parts store. Shouldn't cost you too much. Cost me $150 with labor to do one axle change on my Maxima.
 
You might have steering rack problems, pump problems, alignment problems, tire inflation problem, too wide of a tire and wheel assembly, etc. Take it to a front end shop, preferrably your dealer, and have a real tech do a real diagnosis. It could be relatively simple and something they see often. Letting a small shop GUESS at it could be a lot more expensive in the long run.
 
Kroze,

If you have a Carquest in your area, go there and ask for "Lucas Power Steering stop leak". I know you said it isnt leaking, but this stuff also helps to renew the working parts in your PS pump and Rack & Pinion. Works great.

Hope it helps,

Gump
 
Here's a theory:

Maybe your PS fluid was low once without your knowing. When you took it to Cotton Eye Joe to get an oil change, he tops off all your fluids like he normally does. Perhaps he accidentally tops off your PS reservoir with the wrong fluid (ATF, antifreeze, DOT5)... something that makes a more viscous mixture. So, on cold days, the mixture in your PS system hinders the performance of the pump.

... or your pump could be on its way out like the others said.

Anyway, 14 yr old cars tend to have their own 'personality'. If the car is still driveable, then don't worry about it too much. Besides, I think cars with heavy steering 'feel' better.
 
Back
Top