Car Shakes When First Started

[Dudewithoutapet]

Don't know much about car repair, so any help is appreciated. My car kinda rocks when I first start it and especially if I start driving right away. The sensation goes away after warming up though or if I'm going 30-40+ MPH. Now my parents think its the distributor, but the main issue is they want to fix it in about a month. Can I still drive the car around or will it break down on me suddenly? Thanks in advance.

11-10-07
So my car is dead or seriously need a fix now. Its shooting out white smoke out the tailpipe. I looked it up on Google already, seems like a radiator/head gasket/possibly engine problem. The current question is does anyone know any dependable mechanics in the San Diego area?

 

[cprince]

I think that it's the idle speed control. It could also be worn out spark plugs and spark plug wire. Is the check engine light on? If it's not then you can drive it around for a little while longer.

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

No check engine light thankfully. Its just that I use it to go grocery shopping, etc and I go to school in San Diego and my parents are in LA (~100 miles). If I am in danger of breaking my car, I will save it for the long trip home rather than use it for daily/weekly needs.

 

[overst33r]

Could need new spark plugs/wires, cleaning of Idle Control Valve and throttle body are some things you could do on your own quite inexpensively.

 

[thomsbrain]

The obvious solution is to not start it.

 

[imported_Tick]

Originally posted by: thomsbrain
The obvious solution is to not start it.

Or not stop it.

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

Also I noticed that the gas gets jammed/stuck in the beginning. I need to actually push kinda hard to make it unstuck. However, after the initial push, it starts acting normal again.

I notice these things around the time of the great fires in SoCal, could smoke/ash have anything to do with any/all of this?

 

[Pacfanweb]

Care to tell us what the car is?

 

[Mr.IncrediblyBored]

Originally posted by: Dudewithoutapet
Also I noticed that the gas gets jammed/stuck in the beginning. I need to actually push kinda hard to make it unstuck. However, after the initial push, it starts acting normal again.

I notice these things around the time of the great fires in SoCal, could smoke/ash have anything to do with any/all of this?

This can be caused by a dirty throttle body. I just cleaned the throttle body on my Focus for this exact problem.

http://www.google.com/search?h...cleaning+throttle+body

 

[Mr.IncrediblyBored]

Originally posted by: Dudewithoutapet
Don't know much about car repair, so any help is appreciated. My car kinda rocks when I first start it and especially if I start driving right away. The sensation goes away after warming up though or if I'm going 30-40+ MPH. Now my parents think its the distributor, but the main issue is they want to fix it in about a month. Can I still drive the car around or will it break down on me suddenly? Thanks in advance.

What kind of car is it? My previous car would shake on startup when it was low on oil. It had a slow oil leak and when it started shaking and ticking on startup I knew it was time to change the oil (or just add a quart). Check your dipstick.

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

It is a '92 Toyota Previa 120k miles. I will check my dip stick tomorrow. Thanks guys. I seriously hope its nothing major >_< Old cars rumble a bit on start right? HAHA

 

[exdeath]

I'll put my two cents in and mention the temp sensor, as it's often overlooked, and can cause all sorts of problems that go away after the engine is warmed up (hard to start the first time, rough idle for the first few minutes, etc).

 

[Leros]

I had the same problem. I actually posted here a few months ago. I didn't get around to fixing it yet, but about a week it starting working just fine again.

 

[chucky2]

When's the last time you checked your air filter? (especially with the particulate the fires would be spewing out)

If you're going to run a fuel system cleaner through, try and score some Redline SI-1l; usually found at Pep Boys, Advanced, O'Rielly's, and/or AutoZone. Just dump the whole bottle in as a shock dosage, preferably a tank or two before you get your oil changed.

I'd also say maybe Seafoam it through a brake booster line, but, not sure just how far you want to take this, and, you can't be doing that on a campus parking lot (it usually produces lots of exhaust smoke).

Chuck

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

Hmm I see. Well I'll check out the temp sensor and dipstick soon and then the air filter. I keep forgetting to do it before parking in the garage and out in the day light. Thanks a lot guys for all the help.

 

[nakedfrog]

Yeah, I'm really not sure why your parents would suspect the distributor. It sounds like there's enough good advice here for you to try.

 

[SJP0tato]

These are all good suggestions for things to take care of with an overall tuneup, but a possible underlying cause of feeling shaking is a worn out/broken motor mount. If the engine is older & needs a tuneup as yours might, it causes the motor to vibrate/move more than a new/tuned up engine. A motor mount or two being broken/worn allows the motor to contact the frame/body in some way, transitioning more of the extra vibrations to the rest of the car.

You'd feel it more on startup because when the engine is colder it will vibrate worse than when warmed up. Also you feel it less when cruising because most motors act their smoothest during mid-rpm conditions, and vibrate most at idle.

Good luck!

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

Update!!!!!

So I tried to start my car today and it went KLUNK (no chugging, it didn't get that far) and became dead. When I try to restart no more klunk but also no other noise..... When I turn the key slightly, enough to see the dash signs, the "oil level"(yellow), "check engine"(yellow), battery(red), oil sign (red) go on. The door ajar and other lights are red which is normal. I checked the oil, its fine. The temp sensor, not sure how to check, gonna go google it right now.

I guess I should have said this before but my car has needed a jump a few times now. I tried testing the alternator by removing the red power connector while the car was on and it didn't die. I suspect my head unit might be draining the battery as sometimes I still hear noise in my speakers after I turn the car off and I don't get AM/FM unless I turn the volume way up to hear at normal listening levels. I also don't get anything in the front driver side speakers no matter what volume.

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog
Yeah, I'm really not sure why your parents would suspect the distributor. It sounds like there's enough good advice here for you to try.

My parent own a fleet of these And this happened to one of the other ones shortly before dying, of course I'm sure there are many possibilities and solutions to this problem.

 

[LTC8K6]

"When I turn the key slightly, enough to see the dash signs, the "oil level"(yellow), "check engine"(yellow), battery(red), oil sign (red) go on.'

That's normal.

"I tried testing the alternator by removing the red power connector while the car was on and it didn't die."

Which red power connector? The main red battery lead? It's not a good idea to do that on a modern car when it's running.

I would get it jump started and get over to an auto zone or the like for their free battery and charging system test.

 

[Dudewithoutapet]

Originally posted by: LTC8K6
"When I turn the key slightly, enough to see the dash signs, the "oil level"(yellow), "check engine"(yellow), battery(red), oil sign (red) go on.'

That's normal.

"I tried testing the alternator by removing the red power connector while the car was on and it didn't die."

Which red power connector? The main red battery lead? It's not a good idea to do that on a modern car when it's running.

I would get it jump started and get over to an auto zone or the like for their free battery and charging system test.

Yep, thats exactly what I plan to do. And yes it was the red (+) of the main battery lead, I heard it was OK to do from multiple people and well I'm ok right? haha

 

[LTC8K6]

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery while the engine is running can cause voltage spikes as the load is suddenly removed and then replaced. Voltage spikes can wreak havoc on a modern car.

Jump starting can also cause these spikes.

I wouldn't do it on my car.

 

[Doodoo]

You're ok...but doesn't sound like your car is. I would double check the wiring to the headunit...its probably draining your battery. The stuck gas pedal sounds like a dirty throttle body.

 

[eplebnista]

Originally posted by: Dudewithoutapet

Yep, thats exactly what I plan to do. And yes it was the red (+) of the main battery lead, I heard it was OK to do from multiple people and well I'm ok right? haha

I have done that a couple of times too. Didn't seem to hurt anything.