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car problems, detonation

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Originally posted by: MajesticMoose
Originally posted by: Radeon
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
Originally posted by: Radeon
Please tell me your not running synthetic in it....

if you'll look at the post above yours it says I'M RUNNING MOBIL 1 5W30 SUPERSYN 100% SYNTHETIC OIL IN IT 😉

Mobile 1 is attached to more than just synthetic and you didn't specify. /slap

You should NEVER switch from Dino oil to syn in a car like that. Its very possible that the buildup from the older dino oil in the car is now breaking down and causing detriment to your car.
Eh, I don't think so. I switched my car after 100k to full synthetic(just assuming it was cream of dead dino before) and my dad switched his explorer after the first 100k. My burns oil either way(needs valve work) and his hasn't had any problems in the last 125k. Would you care to back up your statement. I've heard that same thing a couple times and still not scene any actual research to back it up



This explains it fairly well - gives pros and cons

Synthetic is not the devil.. but for older cars running on dino oil, it can cause some problems.
 
You'll spend $4/quart on oil when you could get regular oil for $89/quart, even though the benefits are minimal, but you wont spend an extra $0.10/gallon on gas that may keep you from doing something like melting a piston or throwing a rod?

you are teh smrt... or whatever.
 
Originally posted by: Radeon
Originally posted by: MajesticMoose
Originally posted by: Radeon
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
Originally posted by: Radeon
Please tell me your not running synthetic in it....

if you'll look at the post above yours it says I'M RUNNING MOBIL 1 5W30 SUPERSYN 100% SYNTHETIC OIL IN IT 😉

Mobile 1 is attached to more than just synthetic and you didn't specify. /slap

You should NEVER switch from Dino oil to syn in a car like that. Its very possible that the buildup from the older dino oil in the car is now breaking down and causing detriment to your car.
Eh, I don't think so. I switched my car after 100k to full synthetic(just assuming it was cream of dead dino before) and my dad switched his explorer after the first 100k. My burns oil either way(needs valve work) and his hasn't had any problems in the last 125k. Would you care to back up your statement. I've heard that same thing a couple times and still not scene any actual research to back it up



This explains it fairly well - gives pros and cons

Synthetic is not the devil.. but for older cars running on dino oil, it can cause some problems.
Good read, thanks. also, i have to agree with notfred. It's going to cost you my 3-4 bucks extra for a fill up in that car. To me, that doesn't seem too much to prevent a 1000 dollar repair bil, but that's just me

 
You'll spend $4/quart on oil when you could get regular oil for $89/quart
😕

i use it because of all the stuff i've read about it, plus i spend a lot of time at the 'bob is the oil guy' forums.

but um.. anyway.
 
Have you at least tried putting premium in the tank?

If your pinging goes away, then you've found your problem.

if you have a full or close to full tank, just go buy some of that octane booster, and see if that fixes the problem.

It will at least help you troubleshoot the problem.
 
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
you should 'never' switch? 😛 people do it every day. you just have to take precautions like changing the oil filter early.


Changeing the oil filter early is a waste of money.

Pure synthetic is known for carbon build up! That's the reason few fleets will use a pure synthetic.


If there is a leak in the radiator it could cause the motor to run hot yet not overheat. That alone can cause detonation.

 
Does it have a distributor? All I needed to do on some of my older vehilcles was to turn the distributor a bit. Forget checking the timing, if it pings you need to back it off. If it doesn't your OK, it's not rocket science. Just make small adjustments.

 
Originally posted by: Tominator
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
you should 'never' switch? 😛 people do it every day. you just have to take precautions like changing the oil filter early.


Changeing the oil filter early is a waste of money.

Pure synthetic is known for carbon build up! That's the reason few fleets will use a pure synthetic.


If there is a leak in the radiator it could cause the motor to run hot yet not overheat. That alone can cause detonation.

a) you'd be changing it at the same time as a regular dino oil change so what's the difference? plus the one for mine is five bucks, whoohaa.

b) you'll need to back that up... there's several brands, some of them suck (the fake OTC ones except mobil), some don't...

c) is that because there isn't enough pressure? or something? i mean the level will stay about 2" from the top of the rad after it's cooled off...

 
Originally posted by: PG
Does it have a distributor? All I needed to do on some of my older vehilcles was to turn the distributor a bit. Forget checking the timing, if it pings you need to back it off. If it doesn't your OK, it's not rocket science. Just make small adjustments.

yeah i'm not gonna just randomly slap the distributor around 😉 i'd like it where it's supposed to be and that's 18 degrees btdc.
 
Higher octaine is to be referred to as a Higher FLASHPOINT

Instead of carrying this thread on for decades over a pinging problem why don't you run down your current tank and put in ONE tank of 91+ and then get back to us, your tank is like 12 gallons, try filling mine sometime.... god I swear pepsi drinkers are such pu$$ies 😉

What heat range are your spark plugs anyway?
 
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
Originally posted by: PG
Does it have a distributor? All I needed to do on some of my older vehilcles was to turn the distributor a bit. Forget checking the timing, if it pings you need to back it off. If it doesn't your OK, it's not rocket science. Just make small adjustments.

yeah i'm not gonna just randomly slap the distributor around 😉 i'd like it where it's supposed to be and that's 18 degrees btdc.
Cool, you know where it is set now. Just back it off to 16 and see what happens. No slapping it around necessary. 🙂


 
ok, an update...

i put in mid-grade gas today (ok well i had half a tank of regular and i filled up with half premium) and the pinging ceased. should this be the end of my worries? does it make sense to use mid-grade considering there's no EGR and no knock sensor?

the radiator leak as far as i can tell was caused by a bad cap... so i got a new one, fixed the leak again and it stopped.
 
Well, it's somewhat of a band-aid, but as long as you got rid of the pinging, I'd call it good.

🙂

JC
 
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