Car overheating when I press gas. Cools when idle or park???

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meagan.yarnell

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Aug 11, 2015
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I've had my car for 3 years (2004 Ford Escape 6.0 Cylinder). No huge issues, just a couple different minor fixes here and there. (D.I.Y of course, everyone charges WAY too much) I am unsure if these two are related or if one could even affect the other. Anyway, my a/c went out a while ago and due to the surface of the sun temps in FL, I tried a quick fix.

I threw some A/C Pro in the system. It didn't work but the very next day my car started to overheat. But, it only starts to overheat when the gas is depressed. If i put the car in neutral, idle it or even park the car the temp immediately starts cooling down. I have plenty of coolant in the system so it's not that. :confused: I'm unsure what it could be.

PLEASE HELP!!!
 
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silicon

Senior member
Nov 27, 2004
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I've had my car for 3 years (2004 Ford Escape 6.0 Cylinder). No huge issues a couple different minor fixes here and there. (D.I.Y of course, everyone charges WAY too much) I am unsure if these two are related or if one could even affect the other. Anyways my a/c went out a while ago and due to the surface of the sun temps in FL, I tried a quick fix. I threw some A/C Pro in the system. It didn't work but the very next day my car started to overheat. But, it only starts to overheat when the gas is depressed. If i put the car in neutral, idle it or even park the car the temp immediately starts cooling down. I have plenty of coolant in the system so it's not that. :confused: I'm unsure what it could be. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :\
take it to a garage that can diagnose the overheating problem.
 

bdd4

Junior Member
Aug 6, 2015
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What you have described sounds like an overload condition in an electronic circuit. If the circuit is lightly loaded (like low RPM - your engine running in idle) then it does not overheat but when it is made to produce a higher output (like driving your car - higher RPM) it starts to overheat. That seems similar to the possibility of something dragging against your engine....maybe a bad bearing in the transmission or engine itself. My wife drove a car we owned on an 80 mile round trip. When she got home she told me she smelled something funny. I came out and tried to start the engine but it would not start. The next morning I tried again and it started easily but began to blow out blue exhaust smoke. An oil sensor had broken on the engine and pumped all the engine oil out. That burned up the piston rings and damaged the cylinder walls. The engine would not start shortly after she got home because parts had overheated and swelled creating a great load on the engine because of no oil. I imagine if you drive your car it will start to run hot because of some unwanted load on the engine. Might you have a bad water hose, radiator, cracked engine block or blown head gasket that has leaked all of your coolant out? Check your engine oil at the dip stick. Is it milky white? - meaning coolant has mixed with engine oil - due to a blown head gasket or cracked engine block.
 

bdd4

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Aug 6, 2015
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I missed that you said you have plenty of coolant in the system - maybe no overheat problem from that then.
 

Drakula

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Dec 24, 2000
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Do not have much knowledge when it comes to cars, but had seen similar problem in one of the old 90ish car. The car have head gasket problem. Maybe you want to check to see if the problem is the head gasket? Previously had tested using a kit borrowed from Autozone. Not sure if you have Autozone in FL or have such kit for borrow if you do have one.

Just a suggestion for you to consider, cannot say whether or not that is the cause.
 

cholley

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Feb 16, 2002
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is the fan working? the one that cools the radiator.

run it with the heat on and fan on hi to provide a small amount of additional cooling to the system, via the air flow over the heater core.

if the AC compressor is locked up, that could be dragging on the engine, i would get it in to a shop, a new compressor installed will be around $1k
 

Sabrewings

Golden Member
Jun 27, 2015
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If it's fine at idle, most likely your fans are fine.

I'd look at the cooling system for clogs or a sticking partially shut thermostat. Cooling issues are easy to diagnose. I've worked at a dealership and I do all my own vehicle maintenance (even engine builds), so let me know if you need more help.
 

meagan.yarnell

Junior Member
Aug 11, 2015
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When I checked the oil it's normal. No milky color. So, maybe the thermostat or the water pump? Is there an easy way to check either? I know one way to check the thermostat is by pulling it off and boiling it in a pot to see whether it's working properly. But, I'm not sure about how to check the water pump? :'(
I tried to drive it and stop when it got hot, let it cool and try to go a little further but I eventually parked it. I don't want to have to deal with a cracked engine block or blown head gasket...$$$$$
 

meagan.yarnell

Junior Member
Aug 11, 2015
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My fans are working and kicking on and off when they are supposed to. I looked at all the major hose lines to and from the reservoir. No holes or cracks. See above for my other questions please...Thank you so much!!!
 

Sabrewings

Golden Member
Jun 27, 2015
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When I check the water pump, I pull the radiator cap off (when cold, mind you), suck out a little coolant to allow expansion without overflowing, and then I let the car warm up to idle so the thermostat opens. At that point you can see the flow.

Though, water pumps usually don't go "bad." They typically leak in my experience. I'd try replacing the thermostat (they're cheap) first if you're going to take it out anyway. It is possible for them to lose a blade of the turbine and suffer reduced performance, that's why I mentioned it. Go for the thermostat first.

Don't be afraid of the head gasket. If you have a friend who is decently mechanically inclined they're really not bad. I do it for friends all the time for a six-pack.
 
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LTC8K6

Lifer
Mar 10, 2004
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Yeah, the thermostat is usually cheap, and easy to replace, so you might just try that and see if the problem goes away.
 

meagan.yarnell

Junior Member
Aug 11, 2015
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When I get off work I am going to try the thermostat first! If that isn't it should I just go straight for the water pump next or....?
Do you think driving it a little and letting it cool and then driving it again will immediately crack the engine block or blow a head gasket?
 

Midwayman

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2000
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When I get off work I am going to try the thermostat first! If that isn't it should I just go straight for the water pump next or....?
Do you think driving it a little and letting it cool and then driving it again will immediately crack the engine block or blow a head gasket?

Driving an overheating engine is a good way to cause very expensive damage.
 

LTC8K6

Lifer
Mar 10, 2004
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When I get off work I am going to try the thermostat first! If that isn't it should I just go straight for the water pump next or....?
Do you think driving it a little and letting it cool and then driving it again will immediately crack the engine block or blow a head gasket?

How high is the temp gauge getting?

Has it gone into the red? If it gets into the red, you must stop driving the car and let the engine cool down.

Is the the check engine light on, or has it come on?
 

LTC8K6

Lifer
Mar 10, 2004
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When I get off work I am going to try the thermostat first! If that isn't it should I just go straight for the water pump next or....?
Do you think driving it a little and letting it cool and then driving it again will immediately crack the engine block or blow a head gasket?

How high is the temp gauge getting?

Has it gone into the red? If it gets into the red, you must stop driving the car right then, and let the engine cool down.

Is the the check engine light on, or has it come on?
 

bdd4

Junior Member
Aug 6, 2015
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If you have a temperature gauge, make sure temp stays in the safe range while you drive. Better than a visual check of hoses would be a radiator pressure check. If leaking from a loose connection or pin hole that would find the problem. If oil is not milky and coolant is full I doubt you are losing coolant.
 

meagan.yarnell

Junior Member
Aug 11, 2015
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I replaced the thermostat last night myself. I think it's safe to say that wasn't the problem! The next thing I think I might do is get a system flush, just in case I have a blockage, if that's it then it will knock it loose and possibly be the fix? If that doesn't work IDK??? Does that sound like a good idea?
UGH!!! :mad:
 

Sabrewings

Golden Member
Jun 27, 2015
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A flush might work if there is a blockage somewhere. Based off the symptoms, I would venture that it's in the engine somewhere. Heater cores are common, but they won't cause the engine to overheat.

If it was at my house, I would have someone rev it to about 2k RPM (keeping the temp out of the red), and using a gloved hand I would feel the hoses going in and out of the radiator and heater core. I'd be looking for one hose to be much cooler than the matching hose (like the out hose of the radiator being much cooler than the inlet or vice versa). If that didn't turn up anything, I'd do a full flush with a water hose and then pressure test the system. If all of this was good, then I would pull the water pump and probably replace.

The good news for you is that you're not pushing coolant (sign of headgasket problem), getting coolant in your oil (another headgasket sign), and don't appear to be losing any coolant (thus, shouldn't be any leaks).

Have you checked that the radiator is actually full when the engine is cool?
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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This looks like a major failure of engine cooling. I doubt it actually is related to your AC problems or your A/C Pro fix. I could be significant clogging of the radiator, a blockage in hoses etc., or a failure of your water pump.

For a preliminary check for this, follow this procedure:
1. Start with the engine cold - not used for at least ½ hour, maybe longer.
2. Carefully remove the radiator cap. If the engine is still warm it MAY spray hot coolant out, so be very cautious! Check that there IS adequate coolant in the rad, almost up to the top. If there's a lot of coolant missing, that could be your major cause.
3. With the rad cap off, start the engine and let it warm up. Keep looking into the top of the radiator. What you should see is that it is full of coolant almost to the top and at first it does not move. That's because the thermostat is still closed and no coolant is flowing from engine through the rad. As the engine warms up the level may rise a little, and even overflow down the overflow tube to the external reservoir. But it still won't move much. After a while it should start to move around (thermostat opening), and then move even more as the engine gets quite warm. Eventually when it is hot enough that the radiator fan keeps turning on and off, the coolant should be moving a lot inside the top of the rad, and its level may rise and fall slightly as the fan cools it when it runs. Pushing on the throttle linkage to speed up the engine should create much more flow in the rad.

If you do NOT see the coolant moving a lot with the engine hot, that really means a failure of the cooling system. You say you've already checked the thermostat. Then the suspicion falls to the coolant pump or a plugged rad.

It is not common for the entire rad and all its tubes to plug up suddenly, but it is possible. Many years ago I dealt with a few slight leaks in my radiator by adding a leak-plugging additive to the rad. Seemed OK with city driving. But shortly after we went on a 2-week vacation involving sustained highway driving, and it became obvious quickly that the engine was overheating the faster I drove. We drove over 1,000 miles at no more than 50 mph to keep it under control. When we finally got there, my brother-in-law and I removed the rad, removed its top and bottom tanks (fortunately on that car, not too hard) and found almost all of the tubes were plugged with the stop-leak gunk! We used a thin flat metal strip to push all the junk out and flush it, then reassembled. We had to do a few small fixes on the small leaks it had. Car was OK for a day or two, then same problem! We re-did the cleaning, finding lots more crud in the tubes (must have been in the engine). After that second rodding-out and flush, the car was OK and never had the problem again. But I know that a simple water flush with the rad in the car would never have got it cleared out.
 

piasabird

Lifer
Feb 6, 2002
17,168
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Coolant can still not be flowing properly or the thermostat is upside down or clogged up or the radiator may also be clogged up. I have a Pontiac and they used the pink coolant. You were only suppose to put filtered distilled water in it. I had problems with it for about 2 years. It took forever to get all the pink stuff out of there. Even after replacing the radiator, it still clogged up again. Flush, Flush, and Flush some more. It all started with one event when it overheated just a little.
 

nerp

Diamond Member
Dec 31, 2005
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You may have a radiator that is gunked up. Leak tests can be done with a dye and blacklight. If you do replace the radiator, consider replacing the water pump at the same time and doing a hellaflush.
 

meagan.yarnell

Junior Member
Aug 11, 2015
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Do you just test the radiator with a pressure test? Or....?
I am just so VERY frustrated at this point!!! :mad:
I called and the guy at the shop said that a flush isn't a solution to this issue. It's really just a maintenance thing!...Is he just trying to get me to pay for something more expensive then a flush!? I mean I know some shops try to work some stuff over on people. Especially women because they think we have no idea about anything to do with cars...I am semi-mechanically inclined!
UGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Yuriman

Diamond Member
Jun 25, 2004
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A few years back I replaced some coolant hoses in my Honda, and had to drive about 3 hours the next day. Close to 45 minutes in my car start overheating. I pulled over and it cooled off, but whenever I got back on the road, the gauge started to climb. After stopping again I noticed the air coming out of the radiator was cool even when it was overheating, which tipped me off that I must have put the hoses back on incorrectly.

Turns out, I had driven nearly 45 minutes on the highway with zero flow through the radiator, because I'd accidentally made a closed loop for coolant through the engine.

~

If your system has plenty of coolant and your radiator is getting hot, and blowing hot air, there's the possibility that you have a bubble of air in your engine, but that seems somewhat unlikely. For the most part, engines don't overheat if fluid is flowing and the fans are running unless there's a major mechanical problem like the timing belt jumping a tooth or the cylinder walls being warped, causing excess friction.

Does your radiator still get hot? Do you still get hot air if your turn on the heat? Does that help with the overheating?
 
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