Car amp installation

[deerslayer]

Originally posted by: csaddict
yes.
no.
would never pay someone else to do something like that.

 

[Confused]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I believe my headunit has a pre-amp output and I'm presuming a remote hookup to the back. In cases where this is not an option (old setup for instance) I believe that you can cut the wires to any speakers and run them into the rca inputs on the amp, but what about the remote - how would you set the amp to be turned on, even if the headunit isn't telling it to turn on?

If you don't have pre-outs, then you will not want to put the speaker wires into the RCA connections. RCA is low-level (only a few W, if that), and speakers will be high-level (many W), and you will probably blow your amp! If you don't have pre-outs, then you will need an amp that has high-level inputs as well as low-level inputs.

If you don't have a remote feed direct from the stereo, then you can hook it into your accessory line coming from the ignition. This is the switched 12v line that will turn your HU on when you turn the key, and turn on other electrics in the car 🙂 Just tap into this wire for the remote on. This wire won't carry much current, so a thin cable will do for this 🙂


Garry

 

[StageLeft]

If you don't have pre-outs, then you will not want to put the speaker wires into the RCA connections. RCA is low-level (only a few W, if that), and speakers will be high-level (many W), and you will probably blow your amp! If you don't have pre-outs, then you will need an amp that has high-level inputs as well as low-level inputs.

This is most likely the sub I'm getting to pair with a 12" Jensen sub, all thanks to OS (if he can pull it off 😀). Seems it has high levels as well, so I'll be good to go - although I think my cd player should be fine.

 

[ChefJoe]

Oh skorb, please don't get a jensen. I used to have a Jensen 250W cheap amp (my goal was $100 or less at best buy) and it never moved the sub quite like it should. That amp died (non-use and sitting in a very humid, stored car) and i replaced it with a US Acoustics USX-2150 which easily powers that same sub (a lowly Cerwin Vega 121). In any event, please consider US Acoustics if you're going to do self-install. I've also heard cadence thrown around as a You can find them for cheap at thezeb.com and a number of other places.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: ChefJoe
Oh skorb, please don't get a jensen. I used to have a Jensen 250W cheap amp (my goal was $100 or less at best buy) and it never moved the sub quite like it should. That amp died (non-use and sitting in a very humid, stored car) and i replaced it with a US Acoustics USX-2150 which easily powers that same sub (a lowly Cerwin Vega 121). In any event, please consider US Acoustics if you're going to do self-install. I've also heard cadence thrown around as a You can find them for cheap at thezeb.com and a number of other places.

You'd be surprised. I head that setup when OS had it in his now defunct Prizm. Didn't sound bad at all. My buddy has that that same amp in his car for a few years now; works great. I would say that combo is good for an "entry level" setup.

 

[ThePresence]

I got a Cadence 5 channel amp. It's a brand new model, I can't find it online yet.

 

[MikeMike]

you can get a line level convertor, which takes high level, and converts it to low level (rca) also make sure to ground the amp to a bolt that goes through the frame.

look for grommets in your firewall.

i also reccomend http://www.knukonceptz.com for all sub wiring, amazing prices and very good quality.

MIKE

 

[Shawn]

Originally posted by: Tiles2Tech

Was it hard?

About the hardest part was drilling through the firewall so the power cable could be run from the battery to the amp. Actually, it wasn't that hard ... but, rather stressful as I was praying that I didn't hit any wires or brake lines. :Q :Q :Q

Which is why I love that my car has the battery in the trunk. 😀

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: iloveme2

Originally posted by: Tiles2Tech

Was it hard?

About the hardest part was drilling through the firewall so the power cable could be run from the battery to the amp. Actually, it wasn't that hard ... but, rather stressful as I was praying that I didn't hit any wires or brake lines. :Q :Q :Q

Which is why I love that my car has the battery in the trunk. 😀

Herby?!

 

[Shawn]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: iloveme2

Originally posted by: Tiles2Tech

Was it hard?

About the hardest part was drilling through the firewall so the power cable could be run from the battery to the amp. Actually, it wasn't that hard ... but, rather stressful as I was praying that I didn't hit any wires or brake lines. :Q :Q :Q

Which is why I love that my car has the battery in the trunk. 😀

Herby?!

Miata

 

[IshmaelLeaver]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: iloveme2

Originally posted by: Tiles2Tech

Was it hard?

About the hardest part was drilling through the firewall so the power cable could be run from the battery to the amp. Actually, it wasn't that hard ... but, rather stressful as I was praying that I didn't hit any wires or brake lines. :Q :Q :Q

Which is why I love that my car has the battery in the trunk. 😀

Herby?!

Herbie had it unner da seat.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: ChefJoe
Oh skorb, please don't get a jensen. I used to have a Jensen 250W cheap amp (my goal was $100 or less at best buy) and it never moved the sub quite like it should. That amp died (non-use and sitting in a very humid, stored car) and i replaced it with a US Acoustics USX-2150 which easily powers that same sub (a lowly Cerwin Vega 121). In any event, please consider US Acoustics if you're going to do self-install. I've also heard cadence thrown around as a You can find them for cheap at thezeb.com and a number of other places.

You'd be surprised. I head that setup when OS had it in his now defunct Prizm. Didn't sound bad at all. My buddy has that that same amp in his car for a few years now; works great. I would say that combo is good for an "entry level" setup.

Remember how you said it'd get even louder if I got a bigger box? You were right. 😀

I ended up swapping that particleboard walmart box for a bigger MDF box and it got noticeably louder and deeper. It was already car rattling loud before and after that it just totally overpowered the rest of the stereo. 😀 Loved playing "i got five on it" on that sub setup. Miss having a sub in my ride, but I don't want to tear up my new accord to do any installs. 🙁

Maybe a couple months down the line, drop the accord, get rims, two 12s, and tint. How low can you go? 😎

Anyways, pic of the setup

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Where do you connect the positive to? I did this years ago and I just stuck it right under the main battery connector - is that where an amp power cord typically goes or is there a power source somewhere else along the line? I'll be doing it in a week or so.

I can't see myself being bothered to drill any holes in the firewall and when I did this years ago on both a subaru justy and a nissan access I know for a fact we didn't drill any holes, but to be honest I can't remember how the hell we ran the power cord to the battery. We obviously found a hole somewhere...Oh I think I remember, we opened the door and just ran it up under the hood, so I suppose a little bit of wire may have been showing but I can't quite recall...

WHere's a good spot to go through the FW if I decide to drill it?

Also BIG QUESTION how the hell do you secure a sub box in the trunk of a typical car? I want to minimize permanent fixtures like drilling and what not. Should I get a bunch of velcro stickies for the trunk or what? I heard about somebody who drilled into their gas tank before 😉

You connect power straight to the battery and keep the fuse within ~1ft of the battery.

You can use a existing holes, don't drill if you don't have to. There's usually atleast a grommet for electrical you can run power through.

I tied down my sub/amp with rope.

 

[StageLeft]

Anyways, pic of the setup

How preferred is it to have the sub pointing IN to the box? does it make much diff? The other way around I guess you'd need a hole in the box, but it really cranks this way? Bye bye trunk room 😀

 

[MikeMike]

it makes no difference if it is inverted or not.

although on a loud motored sub, you may be able to hear the motor noise, and sometimes SQ is lost. it also allows for a smaller box, but more air space inside.

try winisd to mess with a box config, knowing you guys you should be able to figure it out

just google winisd.

more cubes in the box (air space) does not always = louder, some subs wont like more space and hus will need less power to destroy themselves.

do you already have a sub Skoorb?? and amp??

i reccomend http://www.edesignaudio.com for subs, their Kx series is inexspensive. The K series has great sound. i have 4 12.14k's

for an amp, you can also check into their avionixx amps, im not sure, but http://www.avionixxusa.com might be up and running.

wiring should be from knukonceptz linked earlier.

box you can build yourself, very easy

MIKE

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
it makes no difference if it is inverted or not.

although on a loud motored sub, you may be able to hear the motor noise, and sometimes SQ is lost. it also allows for a smaller box, but more air space inside.

try winisd to mess with a box config, knowing you guys you should be able to figure it out

just google winisd.

more cubes in the box (air space) does not always = louder, some subs wont like more space and hus will need less power to destroy themselves.

do you already have a sub Skoorb?? and amp??

i reccomend http://www.edesignaudio.com for subs, their Kx series is inexspensive. The K series has great sound. i have 4 12.14k's

for an amp, you can also check into their avionixx amps, im not sure, but http://www.avionixxusa.com might be up and running.

wiring should be from knukonceptz linked earlier.

box you can build yourself, very easy

MIKE

Thanks! In regards to sub/amp/box, I have the stuff posted in OS's pic on its way...

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Anyways, pic of the setup

How preferred is it to have the sub pointing IN to the box? does it make much diff? The other way around I guess you'd need a hole in the box, but it really cranks this way? Bye bye trunk room 😀

Like mentioned, it plays about the same either way you mount it. I just like the look when the basket is facing out.

 

[Viperoni]

Usually when you mount the sub inverted, it increases apparent box volume (to the sub, that is 😉 ) and this does all the things a larger box generally: it'll make the bass sound slightly deeper, and slightly cleaner. I say slightly because there's usually a 0.05-0.2cf difference between normal and inverted sub mounting. Inverted is nice if your sub has a nice motor/frame structure 🙂



Oh, and to those of you who are unable to mount a sub box the easy way (velcro pads/strips on the bottom), let's see how you did it 🙂