Can't overclock Duron 800

[Gum]

Juz got myself a week48 Duron 800Mhz and Abit K7TA-RAID mobo.

Tried the "pencil trick" that everyone elses is doing but to no success. I had double checked the shadings on the L1 Bridges and I am sure that the markings are well shaded and none of the pencil markings touch one another.

Went into Abit's SoftMenuIII and I set the CPU speed to 8.5 Mult + 100Mhz FSB = 850Mhz but to no success. Tried all other multiplier settings also no success. Only able to overclock via increment in FSB.

I am using 2B mechanical pencil lead. Need to use HB lead? Or do I really need to use conductive pen to close the L1 Bridges?

You guys have better ideas??

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Abit KT7A-RAID, Duron 800, 256Mb Micron PC100 -8E SDRAM, G400 32Mb DH, Maxtor DM+60 30G, Quantum Fireball ST 3.2, Toshiba 32X, HP CDWriter 9100i, Samsung 700IFT, HP Deskjet 710C, SBLive!, Altec Lansing ACS56

 

[Gum]

Help pls???

 

[Poof]

Awwww...

The pencil trick doesn't always work the first, second, or even third times. I've read many many posts here where people have had to do it over and over until enough graphite covered the bridges completely to allow voltage to go across...

Why not try the loctite rear window defogger grid kit? This is the more "permanent" solution (although it can be removed with a solvent like acetone if you screw up). It comes with a bottle of conductive liquid stuff that you can use on the bridges (applied with a needle or mashed toothpick, for example), and you should hopefully be okay.

Either that or keep going over the penciling with different pencils....

 

[Dan]

Gum: Hang in there man, you'll get it. The first time I overclocked a Duron I did the pencil trick 6 times before it took. Practice does make perfect because I got it right the first try on the last 3 I did. Just be patient and try again.

 

[heng1028]

i used defogger kit at the first time and that was the last time i unlock it

get yourself a rear window defogger kit and save your time for oc'ing your duron

see my sig

 

[Bigdude]

Mine worked the first try with my 650 Duron, the piece of junk won't run more than 850 though. I should have kept my 566 celeron it did 850, and I wouldn't have to buy new stuff!

 

[byang]

i have a similar problem here. i m able to run a duron800 stable at 10x100mhz on my abit kt7a mobo. but whenever i power-on the system after i shut it down for sometime, it will reset to 8x100mhz! at first i suspect that the graphite on the L1 bridge has worn off but it seems not possible cos i m still able to change the multiplier to say 6 and fsb to 133mhz and runs win98 stable after that. and my cpu and mobo was bought 1 week ago so i guess the graphite shouldnt worn off so fast right?

anyway, after trying a combination of multiplier and fsb a few times, the system will response to the 10x100mhz setting. has anyone encounter this b4 or knows the reason behind it? thanx!

 

[iamfried]

I colored in my switches 3-4 weeks ago and have had no problem since. Others having a problem and having to redo it == I don't know. I used a #2 pencil (you know, the kind to fill in a scantron) and have had no problems. I did need a magnifying glass though. My contacts were a little dry that day.
Out

 

[joax]

when unlocking my duron 600 i failed first time.

2nd time i got smart and used a piece of card board to rest next to the L1 bridge. using it like a little ruler i was able to color plenty of lead of the l1 bridge and keep it nice and straight.

i did this for all l1 bridge and successfully achieved 900. prolly could go further but it needs a major cooler. runs at 61 celcius in summer over here in australia.

 

[vagabum]

ARGH! 6 times you say. I'm on my second try and the multiplier's not working but I'll try the ruler trick thanks!