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Can't load OS or even into bios - is a sign of?

marmasatt

Diamond Member

What are the best guesses for hardware failure if you can't even boot into bios? My mobo isn't fried, is it? I was thinking possibly overheating or PSU but there's just no way of telling just yet......I can't 'f8 into safe moad or DEL into it on this Asus P5W-DH. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
First thing you need to do is get a speaker on that motherboard. The board will offer up a beep code that will indicate what is not allowing you to get to the BIOS or boot the system. Here is a kit that will give you the speaker you need. That is if the board doesn't have a speaker built in or the case doesn't have one.
http://www.frozencpu.com/produ...C_ATX_Control_Kit.html

But it could be any number of things. If the RAM, CPU, or video card are dead it won't post. It could also be a dead PSU.

 

Alright, well I've swapped memory slots. I've swapped memory. I've cleared the CMOS. I've done a reset of the jumpers. Still same.

Seems like PSU to me but I don't have one handy. It seems to power up. Then go into like "energy saving" type quiet. All fans and everything are spinning - just quietly. I also am getting no immediate beeps which sucks. I don't recall having a problem like this before. Any other ideas? Get a PSU and swap it out.
 
Well turn the system on and use a DMM to test voltages on one of the free molex connectors. The read wire is your +5V and the Yellow is the +12V. As long as the reading is within +/-5% then it should be OK.
 
Originally posted by: mpilchfamily
Well turn the system on and use a DMM to test voltages on one of the free molex connectors. The read wire is your +5V and the Yellow is the +12V. As long as the reading is within +/-5% then it should be OK.

I don't know what this means, sorry. And thanks for the link to the speaker kit. I just don't have one on hand 😀
 
Originally posted by: marmasatt
Originally posted by: mpilchfamily
Well turn the system on and use a DMM to test voltages on one of the free molex connectors. The read wire is your +5V and the Yellow is the +12V. As long as the reading is within +/-5% then it should be OK.

I don't know what this means, sorry. And thanks for the link to the speaker kit. I just don't have one on hand 😀

DMM = Digital Multi Meter = Used to check voltage, resistance, capacitance etc... depending on the model.

Place the DMM on DC Voltage and selet a proper range ( note that most these days have an automatic ranging and the range doesn't need to be selected ). Connect the black lead to any of the black wires in the harness all are ground or common. Then touch the red lead to a yellow wire in the PC Harness Power up the PC and read the DMM and it should read +12 Volts DC Power off the PC then touch the red lead to any red wire in the harness Power up the PC and read the DMM it should read +5 Volts DC. As long as it reads within about 5% of these it should be fine.

Note: the power supply has to have a load ( the computer ) to get it to power up and read properly. The connections can be made on the 20 or 24 pin connector on the mainboard while it is plugged into the mainboard.

pcgeek11
 
As a fact-finding step, you might also try unplugging all the drives from the motherboard, then try starting it up like that. Posting a spec list of your computer's hardware could be useful, too.
 
Originally posted by: mechBgon
As a fact-finding step, you might also try unplugging all the drives from the motherboard, then try starting it up like that. Posting a spec list of your computer's hardware could be useful, too.

Thanks.

Asus P5W-DH Deluxe
e6750
4 Gigs (2x2 OCZ 1066 SLI memeory)
500 Watt Fortron (Blue Storm) PSU
120 Gig WD HD
X1900Xt ATI Card

Needing to reseat the processor (like say the HSF is loose or something) you would get beeps if this were an issue, I believe - but should I give that a try. The PSU could be the culprit. It is literally 4/5 yrs old that's predated like 2 gaming systems. It's a good name though.

As far as the DMM goes - you guys are assuming I have one of those around, lol.
 
If the 120GB WD hard drive happens to be a 40-pin IDE drive, remove the jumper cap from the pins and leave it off (if it isn't already). That sets the drive to Single Master mode, and may cure the problem you're having.
 
Originally posted by: mechBgon
If the 120GB WD hard drive happens to be a 40-pin IDE drive, remove the jumper cap from the pins and leave it off (if it isn't already). That sets the drive to Single Master mode, and may cure the problem you're having.

Yeah, it's a SATA drive. Am I wrong in thinking you can't even get into the Bios if you disconnect everything except the video card?
 
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