my .02 on this. when i started wave surfing in the early 1960's, a guy that was called a "regular-footer" surfed facing the wave with left foot forward, with his/her right side trailing leg doing most of the maneuvering work, generally travelling "right" toward the shoulder of the wave (as seen from behind the wave). there are distinct advantages being oriented that way when surfing in that direction. if the surfboard did'nt have a "skeg" (fin), then the right foot would be slid into the wave to create drag, thus turning the surfboard. a "goofyfooter" would favor a "left-breaking" wave where the wave would break and peel off toward the left (as seen from behind the wave). he would have his/her right foot forward facing the wave. a "switch-footer" surfed comfortably with either foot forward. going "backsiding" meant a regular footer would surf a left-breaking wave with his back to the face of the wave, vice-versa "goofy-footer".
when skateboards first appeared (for us) in the early 60's, it was natural for us to transfer the foot assignment callouts that we used in surfing. we'd only go skateboarding if the surf was flat. btw, those first skatebords had metal wheels yanked off of street rollerskates, screwed to a piece of 1/2" plywood roughly shaped like the surfboards we rode. try skating on asphalt with those suckers.
