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Can a manual transmission be bench tested?

Emerogork

Junior Member
I have a shop that has the transmission out and after a few attempts to fix a problem, they say that the transmission has to be replace to the tune of $700 and it makes me wonder. They have not concluded and specific reason why, I figure it is only the next thing to replace.

Is to not possible to bench test the transmission to be sure it is the problem? I would hate to see them replace it only to have the same issue.
 
if you trust the shop, Id say do what they recommend. you obviously have an issue and sounds like they started with easier fixes and it didn't resolve it. $700 doesn't sound like much for a major component like a trans.... then again, it might be more than the value of a 99 ranger
 
To me it sounds like the clutch is worn, or the clutch fluid is low/leaking. If the clutch is worn it's very hard to get into any gear, which is exactly what your issue sounds like. Any competent transmission shop would know this, I suggest you take it to another shop. Also no need to replace the Flywheel, they can be machined for much cheaper, once again a good transmission shop will do this.

I'm a Ford licensed Tech in Canada.
 
To me it sounds like the clutch is worn, or the clutch fluid is low/leaking. If the clutch is worn it's very hard to get into any gear, which is exactly what your issue sounds like. Any competent transmission shop would know this, I suggest you take it to another shop. Also no need to replace the Flywheel, they can be machined for much cheaper, once again a good transmission shop will do this.

I'm a Ford licensed Tech in Canada.


The problem was that I started having trouble shifting. At first it was only into second gear. Go to another gear and it worked then it worked in 2nd gear. Later, when stopped, it took many tries to get it into any gear at all. When it did engage, it would continue to work for a day or so then the difficulty to shift would happen again.

The flywheel showed significant signs of wear, slight discoloration, and a few minor cracks. The shop was going to send it out for rework. I figured that since all this was open then it was a good idea to replace it.

Master and slave cylinders have been checked and they bled the system.

Side note or main problem: In the first inspection, it was found that a mouse had started setting up housekeeping. The nesting material was seen through the vents and was found tucked in small areas inside.
 
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if you trust the shop, Id say do what they recommend. you obviously have an issue and sounds like they started with easier fixes and it didn't resolve it. $700 doesn't sound like much for a major component like a trans.... then again, it might be more than the value of a 99 ranger

The truck is booked at $3500, repairs are about $2000. I may have spent $5K over the 17 years of owning the truck and this includes oil changes.

One additional symptom is that when the clutch is pressed, there is a rattling sound as if one is moving a hubcap with lug nuts in it. I first noticed it when I went up to a drive-up-teller with my window open and the sound bounced off the wall.

I saw an article on manual transmissions that strongly suggests taht the problem is probably in the synchronizers.
 
The truck is booked at $3500, repairs are about $2000. I may have spent $5K over the 17 years of owning the truck and this includes oil changes.

One additional symptom is that when the clutch is pressed, there is a rattling sound as if one is moving a hubcap with lug nuts in it. I first noticed it when I went up to a drive-up-teller with my window open and the sound bounced off the wall.

I saw an article on manual transmissions that strongly suggests taht the problem is probably in the synchronizers.

Ive spent 900+ on having a single syncro replaced in a trans before... and I've spent $600 for a good used unit ...

if they give you some sort of warranty on the replacement trans, and the truck has value to you (couldn't replace the truck for $700) I would definitely have them put a new (new to you) trans in... heck youre waist deep now with the other parts you put in, might as well go all the way.

for future reference, I would think that if the clutch/flywheel were the issue, it would affect all gears about the same
 
I can bench test a manual transmission off my cars.


M56H.jpg
 
Sounds like your throwout bearing is not functioning properly. As to $700 to replace the tranny, if that is the cost for the unit, not too bad. But you need to know if that is a rebuilt or a used or brand new unit. And what kind of warranty they will give you on it.
 
Yeah I would go ahead and get the new transmission, as well as get them to replace the clutch / slave / master while they're in there. Also the Rear Main Seal of the engine. All things that will show up as problems sooner or later and the added cost will be incremental now that all the work has been done to drop the tranny from the truck.
 
What do master and slave cylinders have to do with a manual transmission to begin with ?

Got me, I learned to drive on a three speed non synchronized transmission in the 70's on my Camaro back then, and used to use Heavy Duty clutches, spring plate, and throwout bearings on that, when I needed to replace them in my garage.

I guess possibly manual transmissions are different in trucks these days.
 
Way back in the 1970's yes, Chevy did use mechanical clutch linkages. Not sure when GM swapped over to hydraulic clutch operation. But I do know that most Japanese cars, including the RX-2/3/4/7/Cosmo all had hydraulic clutches.
 
What happens when driven without using the clutch? Can you shift it ? If so the issue is with the clutch system.
 
Way back in the 1970's yes, Chevy did use mechanical clutch linkages. Not sure when GM swapped over to hydraulic clutch operation. But I do know that most Japanese cars, including the RX-2/3/4/7/Cosmo all had hydraulic clutches.

This is a 99 Ford Ranger in this thread. Which definitely has a hydraulically operated clutch.
 
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