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Calling all electricians/general contractors - job cost question

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Bumblebee is in the process of moving into a new 2700sqft shop location, but I need power. Lots and lots of power. The location is supplied with 120V/208V 3 phase, in Portland, OR.

To help prevent price shock, I'm going to ask for rough ballpark estimates of how much this work is going to cost. Because, you know, it's better to ask ATOT than to get actual bids. 😉 Plus we're still working on the shop layout.

It's looking like I need approximately twenty-four 20A 120V circuits installed in external conduit, going around the periphery of 3 of the 4 interior walls. There is plenty of space available in the breaker box. One workstation in particular will need 6 individual circuits. I am not even sure if that is possible yet, due to code etc?

I estimate that this will cost around $2500, but I really pulled that out of my ass and have no idea. Hopefully my estimate is high! How long would this much work take? A day? Two?


Am I right in thinking it will be cheaper to prepare for the future and have all this done at once, rather than call an electrician every 6 months to come modify/add stuff?

Thanks for any Insights! 😉
 
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Without you identifying the physical location, codes can only be guessed based on ones current location/experience
 
Generally, tradesmen are good for about $35/hour for your basic typical work. Offer to pay by the hour and provide the material can be an option.

Big name companies can be the worst as far as pricing.
 
Without you identifying the physical location, codes can only be guessed based on ones current location/experience

Yep, I don't know why people don't just include their location in their profile. But looking at the bumblebee website, it looks like they're in the Portland, OR area.
 
Weird, I wonder why my location isn't in my profile anymore? I am pretty sure it used to be...

I'm in Portland, OR.
 
Anyone giving a quote based on the info provided is wrong.

How long is the longest run of conduit? If the wire is too long the size(AWG) must be increased to prevent excess voltage drop.

What kind of conduit? PVC,EMT,IMC, Rigid...

What kind of mounting surface? sheetrock, block,brick.concrete,frp...

For 24-20 amp circuits at least 4 runs of conduit will be needed. If the curcuits will be loaded more runs of conduit will be needed or larger conduits with oversize wire for current derating.

Will the conduit be run from the ground or will ladders or a lift be needed?

If I was quoting from the provided info it would be hourly plus material. And it will take as long as it takes.🙂

.
 
Weird, I wonder why my location isn't in my profile anymore? I am pretty sure it used to be...

I'm in Portland, OR.

I think so too. I checked mine after I posted and it wasn't there either. (so I updated mine too).
 
Anyone giving a quote based on the info provided is wrong.

I agree, giving a quote would be silly.

I would estimate the cost to be $5000 based on the principal that it will always cost twice what you think it will.
 
Anyone giving a quote based on the info provided is wrong.

How long is the longest run of conduit? If the wire is too long the size(AWG) must be increased to prevent excess voltage drop.

What kind of conduit? PVC,EMT,IMC, Rigid...

What kind of mounting surface? sheetrock, block,brick.concrete,frp...

For 24-20 amp circuits at least 4 runs of conduit will be needed. If the curcuits will be loaded more runs of conduit will be needed or larger conduits with oversize wire for current derating.

Will the conduit be run from the ground or will ladders or a lift be needed?

If I was quoting from the provided info it would be hourly plus material. And it will take as long as it takes.🙂

.

I figured this was likely the response I would get, but you can't blame an ATOTer for trying.. lol.

1) Longest run of conduit I would estimate at 130'.

2) Whatever is cheapest? 😀 Probably a metal conduit since its an industrial/shop environment?

3) Sheetrock

4) Really, 4 runs of conduit? Damn, I was hoping we could just stuff everything into a single 4" conduit. :whiste:

5) Conduit will be ground level, but we might want to run a couple of circuits to the ceiling for future additional lighting? Ugh lol

Am I right in thinking it will be cheaper to prepare for the future and have all this done at once, rather than call an electrician every 6 months to come modify/add stuff?
 
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I wouldn't even try to guess, just call a bunch and have them come in and look at it. You are only gonna get it for what their quotes are. If ten people come in and quote it for 8k well then unfortunately that's roughly what you will have to pay.

And when you find the contractor you are going with have him outline for you his pipe routes so if you see any issues it can be addressed before the work is started.
 
I wouldn't even try to guess, just call a bunch and have them come in and look at it. You are only gonna get it for what their quotes are. If ten people come in and quote it for 8k well then unfortunately that's roughly what you will have to pay.
Probably about all you can do.

Lots of variables there.
 
Anyone giving a quote based on the info provided is wrong.

How long is the longest run of conduit? If the wire is too long the size(AWG) must be increased to prevent excess voltage drop.

What kind of conduit? PVC,EMT,IMC, Rigid...

What kind of mounting surface? sheetrock, block,brick.concrete,frp...

For 24-20 amp circuits at least 4 runs of conduit will be needed. If the curcuits will be loaded more runs of conduit will be needed or larger conduits with oversize wire for current derating.

Will the conduit be run from the ground or will ladders or a lift be needed?

If I was quoting from the provided info it would be hourly plus material. And it will take as long as it takes.🙂

.

Yep. Last job I did with Rigid was time and material, Panera bread at OSU stadium, had to get a change order because the inspector wanted GFCI receptacles, luckily he told us that at rough inspection. 😛
 
yep, it was added.
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I don't see a problem asking for ballpark info. I think people ask knowing the limitations and that it's a very rough idea. I can only speak for myself, but when I ask, it's usually about something I know zilch about. So just getting me in the right zip code is helpful.
 
I'm a union apprentice electrician. I'm at a small shop in SE Portland, but am out of work for an injury I sustained with the military. As far as I know, my company makes some pretty aggressive bids to get jobs. PM me if you want the shop number.
 
Forwarded this thread to a relative - has his own shop.
For an existing building, I could go there and do it. Depending on the lengths from the panels and how heavy they load it all up. I would recommend that you use #10 wire which will handle a solid load without voltage drop. I run about $2.25/ LFT per circuit. This would be about $5,400.00 w/ everything being isolated conduits and averaging 100'. This does not include breakers and they could be expensive or cheap. If they wanted, I could fly out there, do the job on a T&M basis, and if they want they could provide with extra help, or I could do it my by myself. I am $65.00 per hr
 
Posted 6:08PM
Without you identifying the physical location, codes can only be guessed based on ones current location/experience

Posted 6:51PM
Weird, I wonder why my location isn't in my profile anymore? I am pretty sure it used to be...

I'm in Portland, OR.


HE SAID Portland, Oregon....DUH

Starting to get cranky in your old age? .:whiste: or eyesight going? 😛


OP has an edit. Could have been added.
Thank you for the backup. :thumbsup:
 
3) Sheetrock

4) Really, 4 runs of conduit? Damn, I was hoping we could just stuff everything into a single 4" conduit. :whiste:

5) Conduit will be ground level, but we might want to run a couple of circuits to the ceiling for future additional lighting? Ugh lol

Am I right in thinking it will be cheaper to prepare for the future and have all this done at once, rather than call an electrician every 6 months to come modify/add stuff?

usually new outlets are dropped from above the ceiling thus ladders.

from panel, run a single 1" conduit up above the ceiling into a junction box. from there run more conduit right/left into more junction boxes at each outlet location. drop flex down behind the wall. cut hole in sheetrock for outlet.

24 outlets = 3 circuits (8 outlets per breaker)
all 3 circuits can be in a single 1" pipe from the panel. (4 circuits would require a 2nd pipe.)

at least that's what I would do w/romex in my house. replace romex with conduit 😀
YMMV

since your a mod, costs:
$25 per outlet + $25 per 10' of conduit + material costs
AND can't be banned EVER 😛


edit:
wait.. this is going to be in Rigid?!?
add a 1 in front of the conduit pricing #
 
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usually new outlets are dropped from above the ceiling thus ladders.

from panel, run a single 1" conduit up above the ceiling into a junction box. from there run more conduit right/left into more junction boxes at each outlet location. drop flex down behind the wall. cut hole in sheetrock for outlet.

24 outlets = 3 circuits (8 outlets per breaker)
all 3 circuits can be in a single 1" pipe from the panel. (4 circuits would require a 2nd pipe.)

at least that's what I would do w/romex in my house. replace romex with conduit 😀
YMMV

since your a mod, costs:
$25 per outlet + $25 per 10' of conduit + material costs
AND can't be banned EVER 😛
From reading his first post it sounds like 24 dedicated circuits. I don't know if he is confusing a single outlet with a dedicated circuit but i read it as 24 dedicated circuits / 24 single pole breakers.

And don't for get all the wire you will be pulling to these boxes. 😉
 
From reading his first post it sounds like 24 dedicated circuits. I don't know if he is confusing a single outlet with a dedicated circuit but i read it as 24 dedicated circuits / 24 single pole breakers.

And don't for get all the wire you will be pulling to these boxes. 😉

whoa.. then a 3" pipe into the ceiling into a 12"x12" box. from that box, 8 1" conduits left/right along the walls. (3 circuits per conduit)

wire? doh.. was still in Romex mode
 
I figured this was likely the response I would get, but you can't blame an ATOTer for trying.. lol.

1) Longest run of conduit I would estimate at 130'.

2) Whatever is cheapest? 😀 Probably a metal conduit since its an industrial/shop environment?

3) Sheetrock

4) Really, 4 runs of conduit? Damn, I was hoping we could just stuff everything into a single 4" conduit. :whiste:

5) Conduit will be ground level, but we might want to run a couple of circuits to the ceiling for future additional lighting? Ugh lol

Am I right in thinking it will be cheaper to prepare for the future and have all this done at once, rather than call an electrician every 6 months to come modify/add stuff?

1-2) Should be ok with #12 wire with ~1.5-2 volt drop assuming 130 ft at 20amps. If EMT can be used, will be about the cheapest, unless you count PVC, which I wouldn't use in the scenario you describe. Not sure if you have priced wire lately, but it is very expensive.

3) Noting installed in the walls? All surface mount?

4) Not sure if in jest, but most device boxes won't accept a 4" conduit 😛

5) How is lighting handled now? Definitely need some kind of overhead lighting, EM exit signage in a commercial/industrial space, at least in every locality I have ever worked in.

I would get it all done at once, yeah. 2700 sq ft is pretty big, is it just a white box now, or partitioned, what is height/type of ceiling/roof deck?

Basically to get an accurate bid, there are sometimes thousands of variables, and even then you might end up getting asked to do a change order if something pops up. Because it seems like a straightforward job, I would try to find someone local with a good reputation who will do it time and material, after getting a few bids first.
 
whoa.. then a 3" pipe into the ceiling into a 12"x12" box. from that box, 8 1" conduits left/right along the walls. (3 circuits per conduit)

wire? doh.. was still in Romex mode


24 - 20 amp circuits in 1 - 3" conduit. Will need to use at least # 8 maybe # 6 awg in the 3". # 6 cost ~5 times as much as #12. The 12 inch box will not be near big enough for the reduction splices down to # 12 for the 1" pipe.

Another box will be installed near the panel to reduce the wire size down to # 12 to fit in a 20 amp breaker. The cost just tripled at least!

The only time I have ever done reduction splices like that is for voltage drop. Doing it for derating is to costly.

.
 
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