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Buying a 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE for $300

Shawn

Shawn

Lifer
My sister-in-law has reluctantly agreed to sell me her old 97 Maxima GLE for $300 😀 after it has sat for over a year with no buyers.

It has over 200k miles but seems to still run ok... if you can get it started. I spent several hours messing with it a few months back and finally got it started after charging the battery and turning the key a few thousand times.

It clicks when the key is turned but doesn't turn over. I'm not sure what's wrong with it yet, but I initially thought it was the ignition switch. However, I used my multimeter and there was voltage when the key was turned. A perspective buyer was able to get it to start by applying 12v directly to the starter so I think the starter is ok, so it may be a wiring problem or a relay problem. Anyone have experience with this?

Condition is not great, paint is faded and front leather seats are ripped (back are ok). Also one of the tires is flat and the rest are dry rotted so I'll have to change them all out.

However there is no rust and the engine and transmission seem to be ok. My sister-in-law recently had the AC fixed and it blew ice cold last time I had it running.

The engine does leak oil and a small amount of coolant. Might just be a bad hose or maybe a pin sized hole in the radiator. Oil leak can probably be fixed by replacing the valve cover gaskets.

I'm thinking if I can fix the starting issue the rest of the problems should be relatively cheap and easy fixes (except for the tires, but there is a used tire place around here that might give me a deal).

Should be a fun project and KBB puts its value at about $2000 even in poor condition. Hopefully I can resell it for a small profit.
 
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Agree, sounds like the battery is bad.

Charging isn't going to do a thing, and in my experience that body-style maxima is extremely picky about battery condition. Even jump starting it won't be enough, it needs a new battery.
 
Really? Why wouldn't it be possible to jump start? The battery isn't shorted. It's been replaced within the last 1.5 years.
 
If its been sitting, it will need new battery and new fluids. If the issue persists
Check the connections from the relay to the starter. Might be corroded\loose.
 
Jump Starting a car requires energy from the battery and energy from the other vehicle. That is why sometimes you have to leave the jumper cables hooked up for a period of time before attempting to start the car (to build up some power reserve in the dead car's battery). So if the battery won't hold a charge it may be very very hard to start it at all.
 
That is a steal for $300.
The engine/trans will last forever in that car, its just getting broken in.
It's probably just a wiring problem, and may literally cost you nothing to fix (clean connections)

It's common that you can only get it to start once in a while when you have dirty connections.
 
MixMasterTang said:
Jump Starting a car requires energy from the battery and energy from the other vehicle. That is why sometimes you have to leave the jumper cables hooked up for a period of time before attempting to start the car (to build up some power reserve in the dead car's battery). So if the battery won't hold a charge it may be very very hard to start it at all.
Click to expand...

Not really; you've got a direct ~14v supply from the other vehicle. If you don't have enough juice to start, check your connections (wiggle them and try and dig the teeth on the clamps in a bit) and then try holding the RPM up on the running vehicle.

The weirdest thing I've observed is on Chevy Aveos (Daewoo...somethings). They just won't jump (I was using a box). Doesn't even try. I would always have to remove the battery and charge/replace it to get them to start. I think maybe the PCM was weird and wouldn't try and start the engine if it saw more than normal battery voltage.

OP, check your battery first. If it's not that, it's your cables. If the 'hooking alt power source straight to the starter' thing worked when jumping via teh battery terminals wouldn't, you've probably got a bad positive cable. With a good battery, you need to check both it and the ground for voltage drop while cranking.
 
phucheneh said:
Not really; you've got a direct ~14v supply from the other vehicle. If you don't have enough juice to start, check your connections (wiggle them and try and dig the teeth on the clamps in a bit) and then try holding the RPM up on the running vehicle.
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Assuming that you have nice heavy-gauge jumper cables, sure. Do YOU have 0-gauge or thicker jumper cables? A starter motor can draw hundreds of amps peak.

Shawn said:
Really? Why wouldn't it be possible to jump start? The battery isn't shorted. It's been replaced within the last 1.5 years.
Click to expand...

A lead-acid battery that sits around without a float charge will slowly get sulfated and never recover. If you're going to leave a car stored long-term, you need to prepare it by filling the tank, adding fuel stabilizer, and putting the battery on a float charger.
 
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jagec said:
Assuming that you have nice heavy-gauge jumper cables, sure. Do YOU have 0-gauge or thicker jumper cables? A starter motor can draw hundreds of amps peak.
Click to expand...

It doesn't sustain hundreds of amps.

I've used ten gauge cables to start a V8 with a stone-dead battery. You've probably got more resistance between the copper teeth and the terminal than through the cable.

That said, the cheapo 8-10ga cables are certainly not optimal, and there's a reason they usually only sell them in short lengths- it's not just the cost of copper, it's that the length of the run is a strong decider in how much amperage a cable can carry. And even then, they're erring on the side of caution. If the cable actually puts off enough heat for it to become a heavy load itself, you're drawing a SHITPILE of constant current.

If you're, say, trying to jump start an old car that has carb or distributor/timing issues...maybe it just runs bad, or maybe you've done work and need to fill the fuel lines and float bowl, or perhaps someone is tweaking the dist position trying to get the timing 'close enough'....yeah, get some good cables. 0ga is a bit excessive. If you're using normal length cables (maybe 12-14ft), 4ga is fine.
 
phucheneh said:
It doesn't sustain hundreds of amps.
Click to expand...
But it does spike at hundreds of amps, and if the cable is too thin or too long you might drop too much voltage to get the starter motor going. Obviously it will vary from car to car.

And there is a difference between a "stone-dead" battery, and a "sulfated to death" battery.
 
I replaced the battery and got it to start after about 5 mins of turning the key.

When the key is turned there is a click from the interior of the relay and the dash clock goes out. However, there are no sounds coming from the engine at all when the key is turned until it finally "catches", but once it does it starts right up with no problem.
 
At 200,000+ miles I wouldn't say the engine is "just broken in." It's day it's lost past broken in.
 
OK best way to make money on this car. Do fluids you did new battery and clean the car and have it start every time when turning the key then sell it. Then put it out for 15-1800 it will sell quick and you will make 1000 with minimal effort more then that you gonna male the same 1000 but have more money and effort in the car then its worth.
 
Have the wires checked on it, the alternator, starter, it should not cost you much to get it started immediately. For 300 bucks that is a good deal. The maximas are good cars and if you can get it started each time and run it, get the engine used to working again you can sell it for $1500 or so if you want if everything is in order.
 
Figured out why it wouldn't start. The ignition switch was fine, but the pin coming from the key cylinder to the switch was bent after years of use. It wasn't turning the ignition switch all the way. I could start it everytime with a screwdriver into the switch, but not with the key.

Online the consensus seemed to be to replace the cylinder, but I decided to just try and bend the pin in the opposite direction with pliers and it worked. Starts every time now with the key. :biggrin:
 
So I need some advice about what to do with the interior. Here is what it looks like:
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0929121130a.jpg

0929121130.jpg



As you can see it's nasty as hell. D: I didn't realize how bad it was because the floors were covered with layers of crap, plus aftermarket floor mats. The carpet on the driver side is torn and the foam is exposed and on the passenger side (and all down the center console) soda has been spilled quite a few times and was never cleaned.

So my dilemma is whether to
1) have the car professionally cleaned for about $60 then cover up the damage to the carpet with new $15 floor mats.
2) spend $160 and get a new molded carpet from ebay

If I were going to keep the car I would definitely replace the whole carpet, but since I plan on reselling I dunno if I will make the money back. I definitely want to at least get it cleaned because it's freaking nasty and I want to sanitize the car. I don't think anyone will want to pay much for it with the interior looking like it does now, though I know most of the stains are probably permanent.

I already took apart the center console and soaked all the pieces in the bath tub.
 
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I recommend killing it with fire. ;P

Is the carpet all one piece? Usually it's divided up into front/rear sections on latemodel stuff. Sometimes even the driver and passenger footwells are seperate. You'll have an overlap under the seat and bare metal under the console (can see that in the picture).

If that's the case, just replace the really bad bits. Or throw some discarded shag remnants over it; fuck, who cares, it's a $300 car. 😉

If a general-purpose cleaner won't get all that nastyness off the plastics, try goo-gone, perhaps?

edit, heh, was that trim once 'woodgrain' of some kind? Just noticed that...I was wondering why someone would put turd brown trim in a car.

Not knocking it...again, $300 car. It runs. You've already won.
 
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Hah, yeah it's wood grain finish. Now that I've cleaned it you can tell it's wood grain again. This is a GLE maxima which was top of the line back in 1997. Came with power everything, leather, sunroof, bose stereo, alarm and keyless entry, temp based climate control, cruise control.... and wood grain finish. 😀

The carpet is all one piece so I have to replace it as one piece if I do replace it.

My in-laws bought it new in 97 and took care of it, regular maintenance, etc. Then they gave it to my sister-in-law in 2005 and she has used it as a trash can since. The head unit faceplate was stolen but I think my father-in-law still has the original Bose one in the garage someone. Hopefully it doesn't require a code....
 
Also, I cleaned the center console with a degreaser which worked, but now that it has dried there are all these white spots on it. I've cleaned the degreaser off thoroughly but the spots won't go away. Wondering if there is a cleaner that will get those spots out. They disappear when wet.

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Shawn said:
Hah, yeah it's wood grain finish. Now that I've cleaned it you can tell it's wood grain again. This is a GLE maxima which was top of the line back in 1997. Came with power everything, leather, sunroof, bose stereo, alarm and keyless entry, temp based climate control, cruise control.... and wood grain finish. 😀

The carpet is all one piece so I have to replace it as one piece if I do replace it.

My in-laws bought it new in 97 and took care of it, regular maintenance, etc. Then they gave it to my sister-in-law in 2005 and she has used it as a trash can since. The head unit faceplate was stolen but I think my father-in-law still has the original Bose one in the garage someone. Hopefully it doesn't require a code....
Click to expand...

If it requires a code, the dealer should be able to get it. I don't think Nissan ever did that, though. Honda is the only Japanese make I'm familiar with that does that...and hell, they put it on a sticker in the glovebox.

Ew Bose. But a headunit is a headunit...you might not like what you find when you pull that one, though. Harness might be cut, as is common when people are too cheap/lazy to install a pigtail onto the factory connector for hooking up the aftermarket piece.

Also, doesn't Bose usually use external amplification? If so, I would wonder how that thing is wired...if there is another amp(s), maybe it just uses line-level inputs...

Anyhow, if you can wire, you can fix it. Solder then heatshrink then tape, ideally. But butt connectors work in a pinch (that sounds funny), just make sure to crimp them good and, again, tape over in case you break through the plastic insulation.

Sucks that the carpet is all one piece. $160 is the eBay price? Geez, that sounds almost like a dealer rate. Replace the carpet isn't hard, though...especially the removal, which leads me to wonder if you can't just find one in much better shape in a junkyard. Bring a long ratchet to break the bolts loose, and a cordless impact to spin them out, and you can yank the front seats in no time. That's probably your only major hurdle to pulling the carpet. Back seat bottom should just pop loose, and you know how to remove the center console, if needed. Then just pull the edges out from under the sill plates, kick panels, ect. You can take the insulation, too, but it's just as easy to buy generic rolls of that and do a better deadening job yourself.
 
You sure the spots aren't just where the leather is worn? Maybe needs to be redyed?

Also, funny thing looking at all that...why the HELL did anyone buy the Infiniti-equivalent of that car? The 'i' model, I think? I always thought they seemed to no different at all from a Maxima...I thought maybe at least the wood trim was unique to them. 😛

edit: oh, and be careful not to damage the little shift indicator, those can be fragile. Especially the little backlight.
 
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