building speakers

crisscross

Golden Member
Apr 29, 2001
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Is it a good idea to build your own speakers? How do i go about doing it? any ideas, links, tutorials will be highly appreciated.

Thanx
 

Crusty

Lifer
Sep 30, 2001
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I wouldn't suggest building them unless you have knowledge of speakers and SOME electrical engineering. You don't need much knowledge though.

Here's a question, are you going to build the ACTUAL speaker, ie. sub-woofer, woofer, mid-range, tweeter? or are you going to build the cabinet, ie. buying a sub-woofer, mid-range and tweeter and puting them into the enclosure? The latter is much simpler, trust me :p
 

NuclearFusi0n

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
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Originally posted by: MCrusty
I wouldn't suggest building them unless you have knowledge of speakers and SOME electrical engineering. You don't need much knowledge though.

Here's a question, are you going to build the ACTUAL speaker, ie. sub-woofer, woofer, mid-range, tweeter? or are you going to build the cabinet, ie. buying a sub-woofer, mid-range and tweeter and puting them into the enclosure? The latter is much simpler, trust me :p

your mixing up your terms; a speaker is a driver inside an enclosure.
 

bmacd

Lifer
Jan 15, 2001
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Originally posted by: NuclearFusi0n1
Originally posted by: MCrusty
I wouldn't suggest building them unless you have knowledge of speakers and SOME electrical engineering. You don't need much knowledge though.

Here's a question, are you going to build the ACTUAL speaker, ie. sub-woofer, woofer, mid-range, tweeter? or are you going to build the cabinet, ie. buying a sub-woofer, mid-range and tweeter and puting them into the enclosure? The latter is much simpler, trust me :p

your mixing up your terms; a speaker is a driver inside an enclosure.

not really. Unless i'm misreading his original post, he had it correct.

-=bmacd=-
 

NuclearFusi0n

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
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Originally posted by: bmacd
Originally posted by: NuclearFusi0n1
Originally posted by: MCrusty
I wouldn't suggest building them unless you have knowledge of speakers and SOME electrical engineering. You don't need much knowledge though.

Here's a question, are you going to build the ACTUAL speaker, ie. sub-woofer, woofer, mid-range, tweeter? or are you going to build the cabinet, ie. buying a sub-woofer, mid-range and tweeter and puting them into the enclosure? The latter is much simpler, trust me :p

your mixing up your terms; a speaker is a driver inside an enclosure.

not really. Unless i'm misreading his original post, he had it correct.

-=bmacd=-
just looked it up...it goes either way...so he's not wrong, just not as accurate as he could be ;)
 

Crusty

Lifer
Sep 30, 2001
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I'm not an expert or anything, just using my knowledge from high school physics :p

I helped one my friends build a stereo, (4) 12" JBL Subwoofers (2) 3 1/2" Mid-Ranges (not sure on brand) and (1) 1 1/2" tweeter(not sure of brand either) per channel. He was driving the system with a 500W x 2 @ 4ohms amplifier that he built. The system sounded VERY nice, at low volumes and high volumes!

I could possibly be some help, any specific questions you need answered?
 

tronester1

Member
Jul 24, 2002
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Originally posted by: MCrusty
I'm not an expert or anything, just using my knowledge from high school physics :p

I helped one my friends build a stereo, (4) 12" JBL Subwoofers (2) 3 1/2" Mid-Ranges (not sure on brand) and (1) 1 1/2" tweeter(not sure of brand either) per channel. He was driving the system with a 500W x 2 @ 4ohms amplifier that he built. The system sounded VERY nice, at low volumes and high volumes!

I could possibly be some help, any specific questions you need answered?

I don't want to sound mean, but that doesnt sound like a good loudspeaker design. Did you guys even use a properly designed crossover? It is so much more important than the drivers used. Im sure it gets really loud, but does it sound accurate?

If you are really serious about it, then yes, you SHOULD infact go ahead and build your own. You will be able to use much higher quality drivers, cabinet materials and crossover parts than a similarly priced retail speaker. However, you are going to spend a lot of time learning. So much time infact, that it would be easier to go and buy a pair. If you are only building a pair of speakers to save money, you really are doing it for the wrong reasons.

A speaker is so much more than slapping a couple different drivers together in a box and calling it a day. If you want a speaker that sounds accurate, then you will have to either build a design that has a crossover already designed for your drivers, or you will have to design your own. Designing your own crossover is extremely hard, and you need extensive measurement software and hardware.

I personally will probably not design my own crossover for at least a few years. I do not have the proper hardware or software available - or the time. So for now, I stick with proven designs, such as Wayne J's D3 as mentioned above.

I believe Viperoni has designed a few crossovers, I am not sure though. He would be a good person to talk to on the subject.
 

crisscross

Golden Member
Apr 29, 2001
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thanx a lot ppl :)
Damn! and I thought building speakers would be easy anyway will try and talk to Viperoni on this. What I want to do is get high quality drivers and build the enclosure.

Thanx once again.


 

NuclearFusi0n

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
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Originally posted by: Tornado54
thanx a lot ppl :)
Damn! and I thought building speakers would be easy anyway will try and talk to Viperoni on this. What I want to do is get high quality drivers and build the enclosure.

Thanx once again.

the crossover is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of any speaker design. If you are new, you defienetly dont want to deal with designing you own crossover, so try to find some premade plans. http://www.speakerbuilder.net/ these plans are good, but the site is down for now
low priced home theater speakers
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
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Thanks for the nice words guys :)
Just gotta get myself some bondo, and some router parts, and I'm building(and close to finishing as well! :D)


My recommendation for your first system is Parts Express's BR-1 monitor kit
It comes with ALL the crossover parts, completely finished cabinets, EVERYTHING.
And it's super affordable, and sounds pretty good to :)

After you build it, you'll learn a bit more about what it takes to build a speaker... but honestly, I don't really recommend building cabinets yourself since a table saw and router.... which are quite pricey :(
And you'll still have to learn how to finish off teh cabinet (whether by Veneer or painting)....
I managed to snag a sweet barely used 3.5hp Craftsman Pro router for cheap locally, but I still have to go buy a couple bits and a circle cutting jig ($~75)!


However!
There are places like www.northcreekmusic.com ww.madisound.com and www.gr-research.com that have cabinet kits, and there are a few people out there that will build cabinets for you as well.


But as a starter project, I recommend the BR-1's, and if you want more bass, one of the PartsExpress active sub kits (like the 15inch Dayton DVC sub kit, with amp, and prefinished box for ~$450) will rock!
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
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hoihtah

Diamond Member
Jan 12, 2001
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there are plenty sites out there showing you how to build one.

but the one that i like is ... diyaudio.com
 

Deeko

Lifer
Jun 16, 2000
30,213
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Hmm I didn't read the thread, just the first post....but pm Viperoni.
 

EvilYoda

Lifer
Apr 1, 2001
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I've personally asked him a crapload of questions.......I know he's annoyed with me. :) We should give him a title, like "resident speaker builder' or something. ;)
 
Jan 9, 2002
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Unless you REALLY know what you're doing (i.e. the physics of EVERY aspect), I wouldn't recommend it. Save yourself the hassle and get a set of nice speakers at your local home theater store. I recommend Polk Audio.
 

Crusty

Lifer
Sep 30, 2001
12,684
2
81
I don't want to sound mean, but that doesnt sound like a good loudspeaker design. Did you guys even use a properly designed crossover? It is so much more important than the drivers used. Im sure it gets really loud, but does it sound accurate?

Of course we used a properly designed crossover. Only two subs per channel were powered, the rest were passive. We spent at least 3 weeks planning out the physics and everything. It was designed VERY well.
 

NuclearFusi0n

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
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Originally posted by: EvilYoda
I've personally asked him a crapload of questions.......I know he's annoyed with me. :) We should give him a title, like "resident speaker builder' or something. ;)

I've done the exact same thing, and I KNOW that he must think of me as a dumbass n00b pest or something....If i were him, I'd think of me as the same :p

Viperoni OWNS. =)

And i am just a n00b :( :p
 

NuclearFusi0n

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
7,028
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Originally posted by: NightFlyerGTI
Unless you REALLY know what you're doing (i.e. the physics of EVERY aspect), I wouldn't recommend it. Save yourself the hassle and get a set of nice speakers at your local home theater store. I recommend Polk Audio.

Hell, just follow a guide if you are good with your hands, and you could easily get speakers that CRUSH any retail speakers in terms of price to performance. Don't bother with that polk stuff ;)
 

tronester1

Member
Jul 24, 2002
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Originally posted by: MCrusty
I don't want to sound mean, but that doesnt sound like a good loudspeaker design. Did you guys even use a properly designed crossover? It is so much more important than the drivers used. Im sure it gets really loud, but does it sound accurate?

Of course we used a properly designed crossover. Only two subs per channel were powered, the rest were passive. We spent at least 3 weeks planning out the physics and everything. It was designed VERY well.

I see. Did you massload the passive radiators? Also, did you keep the motor on the passives, or take them apart? Im curious, Ive never heard of anyone doing such a thing? Also, I thought the rule of thumb was to have 3x the VD of your active drivers in passive radiators? Dont the PR's start compressing long before the active "subwoofers" do? Seeing that they are subwoofers, I assume you crossed them over at around 100hz? What kind of inductor did you use? Iron core? Also, you said each side was getting 500w? Dont you have to worry about the inductors saturating at that kind of power level?

Could I get a copy of your crossover and enclosure design? I would like to see how you were able to get away using 2 active "subwoofers" and 2 passive. Thanks bro!
 

Crusty

Lifer
Sep 30, 2001
12,684
2
81
see. Did you massload the passive radiators? Also, did you keep the motor on the passives, or take them apart? Im curious, Ive never heard of anyone doing such a thing? Also, I thought the rule of thumb was to have 3x the VD of your active drivers in passive radiators? Dont the PR's start compressing long before the active "subwoofers" do? Seeing that they are subwoofers, I assume you crossed them over at around 100hz? What kind of inductor did you use? Iron core? Also, you said each side was getting 500w? Dont you have to worry about the inductors saturating at that kind of power level?

Heh, I can't really answer any of those...this was my friend that built them. I was just used for labor :p

I'm pretty sure he used a copper inductor, approx. 4-5 inches in diameter. But I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure it was 120hz too.

each channel had two enclosures, one for the subs and one for the mids and tweeters. Stacked on top of each they were about 6 1/2 feet tall. The sub enclosure was about 4 x 4 base with a 3 x 3 top. Two subs on the back, two on the front. The top front and back bottom were powered. Inside the sub box there was vertical panel that split the middle and left about 4 inches on the bottom open. There were no ports.

I'll see if I can get some pictures up for ya.