Also, I need to find some 1.5" - 2" round stickers for the fans. Any ideas? I wonder if I should just buy some sticker printer paper and make my own.... oooo, I might like that idea.. and I guess I have some time to kill. 
Also, I need to find some 1.5" - 2" round stickers for the fans. Any ideas? I wonder if I should just buy some sticker printer paper and make my own.... oooo, I might like that idea.. and I guess I have some time to kill.
What about a circle cut-out of black carbon fiber Di-Noc...
Hello everyone. So here's what I accomplished this weekend. I went to town sleeving the 2 PCI-E cables I will be using, and a set of SATA cables.
They have the 2 different schemes, and I think I am going to chance the PCI-E cables to a B-R-R-W-R-R-B scheme, to match the SATA cable. I like the look of that white in there. I also finshed my LED cables that will light the 3 XSPC blocks and the 2 res's. Check it out.
They have the 2 different schemes, and I think I am going to chance the PCI-E cables to a B-R-R-W-R-R-B scheme, to match the SATA cable. I like the look of that white in there. I also finshed my LED cables that will light the 3 XSPC blocks and the 2 res's. Check it out.
Ok, a little bit of an update.
So, yesterday at work I thought of a nice little mod I could add to my system. Let me run it by you guys.
As the NZXT H440 has no front 5.25" drive bays, I'm very limited to what I can do as far as fan control. So, I was thinking, got the current rating for the GT 1450's off of the net, and popped into the local electrical supply store. I picked up a few voltage regulating reducers, and ordered a rocker line switch. By installing the voltage regulator, I can safely reduce the supply voltage to the fans, slowing them down. I picked up a 10V, 8V and a 6 V reducer, to try some different speeds and test the sound and airflow. The 8V reducer seems to work the best for me.
I am also going to run the voltage line through the switch, and wire it so that you can select either the reduced voltage (silent running) or full 12 V (for stress testing/ gaming) by flipping the switch.
I haven't seen this kind of mod done before, but the big reason for that I'm sure is that lots of times there is a drive bay slot for a controller. How's this sound for a solution, has anyone seen this done before?
Also, today I mocked up a design for my GPU block Backplates... just have to get the paint to do what I need it to :hmm:
Anyways, here is what I'll be going for, all done in plasti-dip.
So, yesterday at work I thought of a nice little mod I could add to my system. Let me run it by you guys.
As the NZXT H440 has no front 5.25" drive bays, I'm very limited to what I can do as far as fan control. So, I was thinking, got the current rating for the GT 1450's off of the net, and popped into the local electrical supply store. I picked up a few voltage regulating reducers, and ordered a rocker line switch. By installing the voltage regulator, I can safely reduce the supply voltage to the fans, slowing them down. I picked up a 10V, 8V and a 6 V reducer, to try some different speeds and test the sound and airflow. The 8V reducer seems to work the best for me.
I am also going to run the voltage line through the switch, and wire it so that you can select either the reduced voltage (silent running) or full 12 V (for stress testing/ gaming) by flipping the switch.
I haven't seen this kind of mod done before, but the big reason for that I'm sure is that lots of times there is a drive bay slot for a controller. How's this sound for a solution, has anyone seen this done before?
Also, today I mocked up a design for my GPU block Backplates... just have to get the paint to do what I need it to :hmm:
Anyways, here is what I'll be going for, all done in plasti-dip.
Ok, a little bit of an update.
So, yesterday at work I thought of a nice little mod I could add to my system. Let me run it by you guys.
As the NZXT H440 has no front 5.25" drive bays, I'm very limited to what I can do as far as fan control. So, I was thinking, got the current rating for the GT 1450's off of the net, and popped into the local electrical supply store. I picked up a few voltage regulating reducers, and ordered a rocker line switch. By installing the voltage regulator, I can safely reduce the supply voltage to the fans, slowing them down. I picked up a 10V, 8V and a 6 V reducer, to try some different speeds and test the sound and airflow. The 8V reducer seems to work the best for me.
I am also going to run the voltage line through the switch, and wire it so that you can select either the reduced voltage (silent running) or full 12 V (for stress testing/ gaming) by flipping the switch.
I haven't seen this kind of mod done before, but the big reason for that I'm sure is that lots of times there is a drive bay slot for a controller. How's this sound for a solution, has anyone seen this done before?
Also, today I mocked up a design for my GPU block Backplates... just have to get the paint to do what I need it to :hmm:
Anyways, here is what I'll be going for, all done in plasti-dip.
First off the image looks cool. You might even be able to do it on the cage.
For the fan mod, I was thinking along a similar line...but I was going to pick up a $10 Rheo bus and flush mount it to the case on top...allowing variable control. Simple 1/2 hole should do the trick. I have since been able to figure out the bios for full control over the fan speeds, so I've dropped it off the plate.
Ok, so after 2 attempts at making a design with the plasti-dip paint, I couldn't get results I was happy with. I took the tape of wet, but the lines I have in mind are just too narrow for it to pull off. Well, at my skill level anyways. So, I pulled out the full sticker paper, remade my design in Adobe Illustrator (you get really nice, high high def images), and printed out the design. Carefully applied the sticker to the backplate, and then finalized it with a generous coating of Plasti-dip clear coat. Very happy with the result, and even better, it will be super easy to duplicate the result for the second backplate.
Also, I assembled the 360 rad and fans to test my voltage regulator. Works good, the reducer does heat up, measured 43 C with my fluke, so I may get the switching variety, and that should bring that down nicely. But, plans are coming together. Oh, and I made up a sticker for the backside of the fans as well. Not only am I a big Supe's fan, I also use it for "S"ims.
Also, I assembled the 360 rad and fans to test my voltage regulator. Works good, the reducer does heat up, measured 43 C with my fluke, so I may get the switching variety, and that should bring that down nicely. But, plans are coming together. Oh, and I made up a sticker for the backside of the fans as well. Not only am I a big Supe's fan, I also use it for "S"ims.
The rad and fans are starting to win me over...can't wait to see them in the case. The back plate graphics are really nice, but will the sticky paper withstand the heat?
As for your sticker, Superman...really... I definitely would have gone with a plane black center. At least it wasn't a flame!
Have you finished all your looming? How long did it take you?
As for your sticker, Superman...really... I definitely would have gone with a plane black center. At least it wasn't a flame!
Have you finished all your looming? How long did it take you?
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krnmastersgt
Platinum Member
- Jan 10, 2008
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I have to wonder if the picture just accentuated the slight foxing you have on the sticker for the backplate. Is that as noticeable in person as it is in the photo? I'd personally be driven nuts by a small blemish on something like that But very nice idea and creative fix to your aforementioned problem; definitely something I'll be considering as I get all my parts in for my rebuild (still waiting on a block and then need to drill some new holes in my tower).
As for the stickers on the fans, I like the idea but are you able to see them at all? I personally want to put a design on the fan blade center but worry that the slight difference might decrease the fan's overall lifespan if the sticker isn't centered correctly (not a big weight difference but it can still make a slight difference).
Also that rad is rather... orange? Last picture it seemed a darker red, is this just the lighting hitting it differently or did you decide to go with orange? (Or was it orange and just seemed red before?)
Can't wait to see how all your stuff is going to look once you get the case
But very nice idea and creative fix to your aforementioned problem; definitely something I'll be considering as I get all my parts in for my rebuild (still waiting on a block and then need to drill some new holes in my tower).As for the stickers on the fans, I like the idea but are you able to see them at all? I personally want to put a design on the fan blade center but worry that the slight difference might decrease the fan's overall lifespan if the sticker isn't centered correctly (not a big weight difference but it can still make a slight difference).
Also that rad is rather... orange? Last picture it seemed a darker red, is this just the lighting hitting it differently or did you decide to go with orange? (Or was it orange and just seemed red before?)
Can't wait to see how all your stuff is going to look once you get the case
Krnmastersgt, yup you could notice some slight foxing at the back of the plate. I have since used a black permanent marker to make it less noticeable. Can barely tell. I am putting this one down on the bottom so it won't be very visible anyway. As fir the fan stickers. You can only see three of them. The ones on the pull side of the 360 rad.
Well, its been a few days. I took a break from the build for a bit, as I am still waiting for my backordered H440, and work has been more than a little hectic.
One thing that has stuck with me is that I wasn't 100% satisfied with my backplate sticker, so I redid it, adjusting the line placement by a fraction, to better line up the white wire in the middle with the white striping. I reapplied the backing, using a better razor for cutting the edging, and this resulted in a much finer edge to the paper. I also re-coated the backplate with clear coat plasti dip. Finally, since its been sitting here, I busted the 780 out of its packaging, and applied the XSPC Razor block to it. I do have to say, I'm extremely satisfied with the final result now.
Here's the visuals...
Starting with the card and the cleanup....
One thing that has stuck with me is that I wasn't 100% satisfied with my backplate sticker, so I redid it, adjusting the line placement by a fraction, to better line up the white wire in the middle with the white striping. I reapplied the backing, using a better razor for cutting the edging, and this resulted in a much finer edge to the paper. I also re-coated the backplate with clear coat plasti dip. Finally, since its been sitting here, I busted the 780 out of its packaging, and applied the XSPC Razor block to it. I do have to say, I'm extremely satisfied with the final result now.
Here's the visuals...
Starting with the card and the cleanup....
And the final results.....
Was so worth the extra time to re-apply the backing, as I was able to eliminate all the foxing. It looks like it was professionally done, even up close, and I'm very happy with it.
Was so worth the extra time to re-apply the backing, as I was able to eliminate all the foxing. It looks like it was professionally done, even up close, and I'm very happy with it.
krnmastersgt
Platinum Member
- Jan 10, 2008
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Gotta say that backplate looks pretty damn awesome now. And as Tweakin put it, can't believe you still don't have your case; much in the same regard can't believe I'm still waiting on my GPU block lol.
I am extremely upset about the case issue. I have actually been on numerous chats/ and even phone calls with both NZXT and NCIX. But no response worth mentioning, other than NZXT saying I could order from them and get it in April, or NCIX just saying that I would get it when they got it.... Oh well. All I was able to due was up my shipping choice the FedEx Air, and get it rushed, so as soon as they can send it, I should have it.
However, NEVER again will I pre-order anything from NCIX, or recommend it, as you are better getting your pre-orders direct from the manufacturer whenever possible.
However, NEVER again will I pre-order anything from NCIX, or recommend it, as you are better getting your pre-orders direct from the manufacturer whenever possible.
Hello again, and yes I am still alive, and so is this build... though still slow at the moment as I am still (yes, still) waiting on the case.
But that hasn't stopped me from getting things prepped and on the go.
This weekend I had lots of time to dig into a few issues. First, the rad prep and cleaning of new loop components. Second, getting my SLI setup linked and working. (Which was fairly big issue, as I am using the Skynet Bios' and 2 different cards, will explain below)
I started out with the loop flush and prep. I pulled one of my lengths for Primochill tubing out, and rinsed the 2 rads, res's and tubing with pure distilled. I then hooked it all up in a long loop, refilled with distilled and added some of the Loop prep that comes with the LRT, and a few drops of dishsoap. I am running this for a few hours each night, getting everything good a flushed out, (I dump the res's each night to pull out anything that settles.)
But that hasn't stopped me from getting things prepped and on the go.
This weekend I had lots of time to dig into a few issues. First, the rad prep and cleaning of new loop components. Second, getting my SLI setup linked and working. (Which was fairly big issue, as I am using the Skynet Bios' and 2 different cards, will explain below)
I started out with the loop flush and prep. I pulled one of my lengths for Primochill tubing out, and rinsed the 2 rads, res's and tubing with pure distilled. I then hooked it all up in a long loop, refilled with distilled and added some of the Loop prep that comes with the LRT, and a few drops of dishsoap. I am running this for a few hours each night, getting everything good a flushed out, (I dump the res's each night to pull out anything that settles.)
I also attacked the SLI issue. I figured since I have the time, I may as well take care of it. I was running a water cooled setup to begin with, and already had the new card with the block installed, as seen in a previous post. So I flushed my water setup, (I had been running EK UV Blue coolant), rinsed it a few times through with pure distilled, and finally installed the second card in parrellel. I originally had just a 360 rad that I had modded into the Phantom case, so I pulled the 240 that had been getting flushed out of the tub, rinsed it again and set it up as a temp measure for added surface area. I also added the image backing to my original card, and switched over to my sleeved cables to make sure they worked properly.
Note how poor the tubing was in my old setup.... I had purchased a thinner walled tubing, so I had to make some long loops to avoid any kinks. I've also ordered EVGA pro bridge for the SLI setup.
Note how poor the tubing was in my old setup.... I had purchased a thinner walled tubing, so I had to make some long loops to avoid any kinks. I've also ordered EVGA pro bridge for the SLI setup.
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But now, finally, I have a perfectly clear loop, just pure distilled. Normally I would add a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor, but this will be running for less than 2 weeks, hopefully less than 1, so I'm just doing this for now. If I don't hear from NCIX by this weekend regarding my case shipping, I will add flush the loop and add some.
Most importantly, the GTX 780's are both flashed to the skynet bios' and running right together at a baseline of 1137 MHz core and 1600MHz mem. I can push both a bit more, but I'm waiting for the final build for the true benching.
Until then, here's a little more current "build in waiting" pron, with the custom red LED lighting in full effect
Most importantly, the GTX 780's are both flashed to the skynet bios' and running right together at a baseline of 1137 MHz core and 1600MHz mem. I can push both a bit more, but I'm waiting for the final build for the true benching.
Until then, here's a little more current "build in waiting" pron, with the custom red LED lighting in full effect
Hello again, and yes I am still alive, and so is this build... though still slow at the moment as I am still (yes, still) waiting on the case.
But that hasn't stopped me from getting things prepped and on the go.
This weekend I had lots of time to dig into a few issues. First, the rad prep and cleaning of new loop components. Second, getting my SLI setup linked and working. (Which was fairly big issue, as I am using the Skynet Bios' and 2 different cards, will explain below)
I started out with the loop flush and prep. I pulled one of my lengths for Primochill tubing out, and rinsed the 2 rads, res's and tubing with pure distilled. I then hooked it all up in a long loop, refilled with distilled and added some of the Loop prep that comes with the LRT, and a few drops of dishsoap. I am running this for a few hours each night, getting everything good a flushed out, (I dump the res's each night to pull out anything that settles.)
I do mine in the sink!!! Is that 1/2 ID...looks big.
You bet, 1/2 ID by 3/4 OD. Much nicer to work with this tubing than my older stuff. Decent bendablility, and no kinking. :thumbsup:
Big tubing for a small case. I thought about going big to increase my fluid flow, but I was a little concerned about the space...that and I would have to replace all my fittings...$$$$$$$$$$$
Quick little update,
So I received a few more "toys" in the mail today. One of the worst parts of waiting for this case has been that I have had too much time to think about "What else should I do?" This is followed by "Oh, it's just a little bit more..." and more things arrive in the mail a few days later. :awe:
Here is today's haul. This will all be incorporated into the new H440 build when it gets here.
I have the Z77 board, and my i5-2500K was a bad lotto pick basically maxing out at 4.7, 4.8 GHz, so.... new i5-3570K. This also works as I needed a second CPU for a build I'm doing for my GF using a spare Gen-2 board. Win Win.
And, hell, if I'm doing all this, time for a decent backup drive system/ media drive...
So this weekend I will tear into this, install the new cpu on my board, get it all setup, and see if I cant get that Seagate drive up and running also.
So I received a few more "toys" in the mail today. One of the worst parts of waiting for this case has been that I have had too much time to think about "What else should I do?" This is followed by "Oh, it's just a little bit more..." and more things arrive in the mail a few days later. :awe:
Here is today's haul. This will all be incorporated into the new H440 build when it gets here.
I have the Z77 board, and my i5-2500K was a bad lotto pick basically maxing out at 4.7, 4.8 GHz, so.... new i5-3570K. This also works as I needed a second CPU for a build I'm doing for my GF using a spare Gen-2 board. Win Win.
And, hell, if I'm doing all this, time for a decent backup drive system/ media drive...
So this weekend I will tear into this, install the new cpu on my board, get it all setup, and see if I cant get that Seagate drive up and running also.
krnmastersgt
Platinum Member
- Jan 10, 2008
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I feel your pains Sims, I've been waiting for almost 8 weeks now on a backordered GPU block from Performance PCS, and I don't feel like assembling and cleaning parts of the loop without having everything in place first. I still need to get around to the physical mods of my case to make everything fit but the wait is annoying and I'm starting to lose interest in the case for now since all the planning and what else could I fit in is getting out of hand
This is going to be my first build on water so do you think the amount of prep/cleaning you did for your radiators is necessary or is this just something you're doing while you wait?
This is going to be my first build on water so do you think the amount of prep/cleaning you did for your radiators is necessary or is this just something you're doing while you wait?
I feel your pains Sims, I've been waiting for almost 8 weeks now on a backordered GPU block from Performance PCS, and I don't feel like assembling and cleaning parts of the loop without having everything in place first. I still need to get around to the physical mods of my case to make everything fit but the wait is annoying and I'm starting to lose interest in the case for now since all the planning and what else could I fit in is getting out of hand
This is going to be my first build on water so do you think the amount of prep/cleaning you did for your radiators is necessary or is this just something you're doing while you wait?
NECESSARY, Very Necessary. Like Sims, I flush my rads with warm/hot tap water for 12 hours, followed by a final flush with Distilled water and system prep. The factory leaves some residue and flux behind, and this is the only way to ensure it doesn't clog your pump.
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