That PSU is junk, not worth fixing. Literally, when they don't even use the AC filter stage and have discrete diodes, it's a bottom of the barrel PSU so no wonder it failed. Further, I suspect you should not be working on anything that gets plugged into mains AC voltage.
No, it is not okay to just shove the pin back in (lol). I would not buy random generic caps on ebay unless that is your last resort. If you had told us where you're located, we might have been able to suggest an electronics supply house in your region, even a specific part #. In the US I'm partial to digikey because there is no order minimum and under (8oz?) a few ounces they will ship via the cheaper USPS carrier for about $3.
The first two things to do are measure the lead spacing, and measure the diameter because with them sitting right next to each other, a larger diameter probably won't fit.
Sometimes the off-brand capacitors have overly optimistic, even fraudulent capacitance ratings for their size, so if you cannot get a 330uF cap in that diameter and height, go with a taller capacitor.
I would have thought that you were already able to source parts, or else how did you expect to repair this PSU for whatever the (other) problem was?
Anyway, throwing a PSU hard enough to break capacitors off, may have left you with other broken solder joints, cracks in the PCB, or even stress on some component leads, particularly the transistors or diodes on the heatsinks. The entire PSU should be gone over with a magnifying glass and strong work light, except as stated initially, this PSU wasn't worth the time to try to repair at all.
Fortunately for you, since these caps only see 50Hz-60Hz frequency, the other specs of the cap don't matter much beyond at least 330uF and at least 250V. They're far less likely to fail if you pick a mediocre quality part, compared to the caps filtering the output on the low voltage side.