Breaking in new car - 400 miles on day 1. How?

[mazeroth]

I’m purchasing a new car tomorrow from an out-of-state dealer (because they’re way cheaper using USAA discount) and will be driving it home. The trip is going to be 400 miles. I know people say you shouldn’t drive hard for the first 500 or so miles and was wondering how I should handle this trip to allow the engine to break-in properly? I figure it’s more a function of RPM’s rather than speed, as I’ve heard not to drive over 55 but figure since it will be all highway miles I doubt I’ll be hitting over 3000 often. I figure keep it at 65 and enjoy the ride. Thoughts?

Also, I’m purchasing it from Virginia and taking it to Ohio. The dealership says they will charge state of Ohio tax and file all the paperwork with the state for me. Should I demand they not do this and let me pay the tax once I register it in Ohio?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

[Phanuel]

Drive it like you stole it. Seriously, engine break-in is a giant mess of heresy and pretty much pointless in this age. Or read the manual for your particular car and follow the directions, up to you.

Drove my A4 like I stole it and it's still fine 4 years later at 50K.

 

[MixMasterTang]

I've been told a few times on new cars the most important thing is to vary for RPM's, so don't stick it on cruise for the whole 400 miles.

 

[Alienwho]

I've been told a few times on new cars the most important thing is to vary for RPM's, so don't stick it on cruise for the whole 400 miles.

This is what I've heard as well.

 

[LTC8K6]

Look in the Owner's manual. If there is a required break-in procedure it will be there.

What kind of car? Maybe we can find it online.

 

[mpo]

From my owner's manual. I wouldn't be surprised if others are similar:
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the
Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil
usage.

 

[mazeroth]

It's a 2011 Chevy Traverse. I figure drive 200 miles, then stop for 30-60 minutes for lunch to let the components cool so the seals and everything else can reseat themselves, then fire it back up and finish the drive.

 

[JulesMaximus]

I've been told a few times on new cars the most important thing is to vary for RPM's, so don't stick it on cruise for the whole 400 miles.

Agreed.

Read the manual too.

 

[LTC8K6]

From the 2011 Traverse manual:

Starting and
Operating
New Vehicle Break-In
Notice: The vehicle does not
need an elaborate break-in. But it
will perform better in the long run
if you follow these guidelines:
. If you have all-wheel drive,
keep your speed at 88 km/h
(55 mph) or less for the first
805 km (500 miles).
. Do not drive at any one
constant speed, fast or slow,
for the first 805 km
(500 miles). Do not make
full-throttle starts. Avoid
downshifting to brake or
slow the vehicle.
. Avoid making hard stops for
the first 322 km (200 miles) or
so. During this time the new
brake linings are not yet
broken in. Hard stops with
new linings can mean
premature wear and earlier
replacement. Follow this
breaking-in guideline every
time you get new brake
linings.
. Do not tow a trailer during
break-in. See Driving
Characteristics and Towing
Tips on page 9‑46 for the
trailer towing capabilities of
your vehicle and more
information.
Following break-in, engine speed
and load can be gradually
increased.

 

[Doppel]

Go with manual. It will tell you to be gentle and vary RPM, so don't drive it on cruise; vary your speed and necessarily the RPM by extension. take some back roads if you need to.

 

[boomhower]

Break-in isn't needed these days. Years ago, yeah. But not anymore. It's overrated.

 

[thomsbrain]

Drove my A4 like I stole it and it's still fine 4 years later at 50K.

Dude. If you're talking about anything less than 200,000 miles, your input is meaningless.

OK, I take it back. For an Audi, 50,000 miles is pretty impressive.

 

[soccerballtux]

Dude. If you're talking about anything less than 200,000 miles, your input is meaningless.

OK, I take it back. For an Audi, 50,000 miles is pretty impressive.

but seriously yeah, anything less than 200k and it's nothing. Even 400k could be other reasons like if it was all driven in the first year.

 

[HarryLui]

Warm it up, drive it like you stole it. Lots of hard accelerates, and hard decelerates.

 

[The Boston Dangler]

Warm it up, drive it like you stole it. Lots of hard accelerates, and hard decelerates.

drain the oil too. excessive lubrication prevents break-in

 

[Doppel]

Drive it like you stole it. Seriously, engine break-in is a giant mess of heresy and pretty much pointless in this age. Or read the manual for your particular car and follow the directions, up to you.

Not according to the manual.

Break-in isn't needed these days. Years ago, yeah. But not anymore. It's overrated.

Not according to the manual.

Warm it up, drive it like you stole it. Lots of hard accelerates, and hard decelerates.

Not according to the manual.

--

I've seen the websites, too. As have I am sure the engineers of GM, Toyota, Nissan, etc. each and every damn one of who prescribe a break-in period. I'm not 60 years old so I have no idea how it used to be. I imagine break-ins were long exercises in the past and they aren't now; a thousand miles, maybe a touch more, but there is still a definite formula the manufacturer prefers you to follow. In the manual.

 

[HarryLui]

drain the oil too. excessive lubrication prevents break-in

Leak down test on my engine reveal 1-2% leak down when I did that break-in for my rebuilt engine. Yours?

 

[CraigRT]

Everyone over thinks "break in" Just drive it how your normally drive your cars, seriously.

When I got my new Civic I just started using it how I would always use it, right away.

 

[rdp6]

Regarding sales tax: I live in Ohio. I bought our Flex in Michigan and paid base Ohio sales tax there and had to pony up the rest (based on county) when I registered it. Cash or check only at the courthouse.

I see no advantage of screwing around with taxes / registration paperwork at the dealership. Biggest lesson learned for me was to make certain you inspect the vehicle very carefully; after a full day of work and then several hours of driving it was dusk by the time I got to Flat Rock and missed observing some damage (cracked vista roof) that will be very expensive to fix. Dealership management offered no help I discovered and reported it 2 weeks after I took it home.

Bring a flashlight and a camera if you are determined to take delivery and work out repairs later.

As for break-in; try taking some state highways rather than the interstate. This will force you to keep speed low and varied as you pass through small towns. Also will have much better scenery than the interstate.

 

[alexruiz]

I also bought my current car out of state (2010 Suzuki Kizashi 6sp MT)
I got in in Wexford, PA and drove it back to Michigan (~320 miles) Curiously, it will be the 1st anniversary in 2 weeks

The guideline of not to drive at the same speed is based mainly on automatic transmissions, to make sure the engine works at different RPM bands. With my car, being MT, I took some parts of the highway in 5th gear, some others even in 4th and was even a little crazy at some points as I blasted by some convoys of semis

I stopped 3 times at rest stations (food, bathroom, bathroom) and the trip was a joy. I only have 12k miles in the car, so it is to soon to say if I did it correctly or not. How does it feel? As good as the first day, if not better.

Have fun and drive safely!


Alex

 

[Phanuel]

Dude. If you're talking about anything less than 200,000 miles, your input is meaningless.

Because magically at 200K miles something you did or did not do properly between miles 0 and 400 SUDDENLY makes a giant difference? What a crock of shit. If your engine survives 10-20K miles without blowing a piston ring, I'm pretty sure you're well past any good or bad a waste of time break in was doing.

Not according to the manual.Not according to the manual.Not according to the manual.

And I've seen plenty of evidence from users that driving their cars and bikes hard from day 1 have resulted in cleaner, faster, more reliable engines as well. Most engines are already broken in by the factory as a result of testing them to make sure they even work in the first place.

The manual is just repeating rote information from the past. Follow it if you want, fine. But it's not the all knowing truth. How many engineers actually sit down and write that manual? I'm betting 0. Manuals are the domain of lawyers and low paid staff just to tell the end user that 'Caution, this bit is hot!' and 'Here is where you place your 60ozs of sugar drink in one of our 33.7 cup holders located conveniently around your seat'.

 

[Eli]

Drive it hard. Seat the rings. That's the most important thing. Cylinder pressure cams the rings outwards. The higher the better.

Engine break in most certainly isn't a "myth" or "not needed".

The point of break-in by and large is to wear down the peaks on the crosshatch and seat the rings. A gentle break-in can prevent this from happening properly.

Will the engine still last 100k miles? Yes. Will it still last 200k miles? Most likely. Is it still a bad thing to have leaky rings? Absolutely.

 

[The Boston Dangler]

Leak down test on my engine reveal 1-2% leak down when I did that break-in for my rebuilt engine. Yours?

i never did a leak down test or a rebuild, because i rtfm.

 

[Phanuel]

Drive it hard. Seat the rings. That's the most important thing. Cylinder pressure cams the rings outwards. The higher the better.

Engine break in most certainly isn't a "myth" or "not needed".

The point of break-in by and large is to wear down the peaks on the crosshatch and seat the rings. A gentle break-in can prevent this from happening properly.

Will the engine still last 100k miles? Yes. Will it still last 200k miles? Most likely. Is it still a bad thing to have leaky rings? Absolutely.

We agree with the drive it hard.

I still want to see the long term studies where someone independent took two identical engines with 0 miles on them and then performed a flawless manual recommended break in on 1 and a reckless all over the rpms drive on the other engine and then opened them up (assuming they didn't break down for other random reasons) 100K miles later and measured them.

Probably like rifle barrel break in, it's all pointless bullshit but nobody has ever invested the money to actually prove that a break in makes a difference.

If someone has, I'll go eat my foot without a problem.

 

[LTC8K6]

Can we all agree that there is one thing you probably don't want to do with a brand new car?

Take it right out on a long highway run on cruise control...hours of droning along at 65...