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Breaking an Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Epoxy Joint...

Caveman

Platinum Member
I posted the following earlier on the "general hardware" section and was amazed by the lack of response. Maybe someone here has had experience with AS Alumina thermal epoxy???


I'm trying to fix a GF3 Ti500 heat problem, and I don't want to have to send it back to VisionTek for replacement unless absolutely necessary. I'm going to try to put a new HSF on myself using Arctic Silver Alumina. But...if my new cooler doesn't fix the problem, then I'll have to send it back. So the question is - will I be able to remove the epoxied HSF to put the original HSF back on? Incidentally, don't suggest that I use anything other than Arctic Silver Alumina because I've already decided on which cooler I want (CoolJag 311C - not something like a Blue Orb).

Thanks.

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Adul
Elite Member

Posts: 21521
Joined: Oct 1999
06/28/2002 11:14 AM (NEW!)



I assume overheating is the problem. Removing the heat voids your waranty you know.

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DBacks 2001 Champs
Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

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Caveman
Senior Member

Posts: 326
Joined: Nov 1999
06/28/2002 11:47 AM (NEW!)



Actually, I was surprised to find that the Visiontek customer service rep
that I talked to was very candid and "understood my pain" about waiting 10
days RMA the board right now, prior to trying to fix it. He actually
suggested that I try to fix the problem myself (he suggested a Blue Orb) and
only return the unit if I "had to" by removing the Blue Orb and putting the
stock HSF back on. I already have the CoolJag cooler in hand and it has
about twice the cooling capacity as the Blu Orb so I "need" to use it. If
no one has ever had success breaking a Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Epoxy
joint than I might rethink what I'll do... But, if someone has had success
then I'll go ahead and see what the new HSF does for the video card in the
context that if it fails, I've covered my back by replacing it with the
stock HSF before I send it back for an RMA number... I really think the new
heatsink will solve my overheat problem as it seems to be "marginal" at max
load computer and room-ambient conditions.


 
throw it in the freezer overnight or at least 6 hours. take it out and use a butterknife (VERY CAREFULLY) just pop it off. i've been doing it this way for a while now with no casualties to any video cards yet. successful removals = 5, casualties = 0

try it.
 
I always heard using a blow drier was the best way since the heat would soften up the epoxy a little. They use a knife to sperate the heatsink from chip.

If you havnt applied the epoxy yet you can make it weaker by adding one part artic alumia to the half and half epoxy mix.
 
I have heard of some people using dots of superglue or thermal epoxy on the corners and filling the middle with a regular thermal compound like AS3. Makes it easy to get off.
 
ewww i would stay away from the blow dryer
i second the freezer method
just throw it in a zip lock bag

also if you are epoxying a heatsink and might wanna remove it later try deluting the epoxy with some regular artic silver
this will not impede the heat transfer abilities of the compound but will make it adhere slightly less making it easier for
you to remove it next time
 
Thanks for the tip... I assume the freezer technique was to break the arctic silver alumina thermal epoxy joint and not the thermal tape that's on the stock HSF?
 
putting it in the freezer helps make the epoxy brittle and easier to break off
as far as tape goes that shouldn't be too hard to remove
 
Everyone has an opinion, but I would try to twist it off, not use a knife to pry it off. It spreads the stress out all over instead of focusing it on one side. Seems safer to me.
 
Originally posted by: tracerbullet
Everyone has an opinion, but I would try to twist it off, not use a knife to pry it off. It spreads the stress out all over instead of focusing it on one side. Seems safer to me.

I don't think this is a good idea... seems to me like this might place undue stress on the chip relative to the board. With the knife method, you'd be pressing downwards against the chip, and not sheering it sideways.
 
might you have room for an exacto /razor blade style knife?
agree with freezer,In a plastic bag,
pleased to see another cave man;😀
cavemanmoron !!! LOL
good luck !!lLet us know how you make out!
 
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