alkemyst
No Lifer
So what do you buy?
Hawk usually.
So what do you buy?
Really, you can vouch for the fact that the after market pads I bought fit perfectly into my calipers? All that over the internet?! Amazing. The pad ears were just a tiny bit too high and I needed a hammer to tap them out.
Others have done the same http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,41840,42236
Why do you say that?
The other corner I just finished now had the same type of fit (basically interference) between the pad backing and the caliper bracket, so I sanded down the corners so they fit with minimal force. The wheel now takes 3-4x longer to stop after a spin compared to the first wheel I did where the backing was super tight... but you're saying that's a bad thing?
OK. Hope I don't crash and die then.
Yes I can. I have been replacing brake pads for almost 20 years, and i have NEVER had to modify ANY component (Caliper, pad, anti-rattle clip, etc).
N E V E R !
Neither have I and as I've said, I've been doing brakes since drums on all 4 wheels were the norm.
I have bought pads/shoes that didn't fit well, but they were, again, not OE or were the off-brand private marked stuff/junk AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's sells.
My brother finally convinced me to move to Wagner and/or Bendix and have never had to hammer, grind, cut or in any other way modify a pad or shoe to fit. If you're having to do that, the pad/shoe was manufactured incorrectly.....period. They should fit without having to modify at all.
You can have your opinion and all, but it's my experience that with the parts that I had, there was a tight interference fit between the calipers and the abutment (anti-rattle) clips inside the pad brackets which were cleaned. Because I wanted a very light interference fit rather than a tight interference fit, I cleaned up the edges of the pad backings near the "ears" so that they wouldn't scrape so much against the clips, and I then finished off with lube in the clips.
Unless you can point out something specific, it is hardly constructive to repeatedly insist that the procedure undertaken must have been in error.
Because I wanted a very light interference fit rather than a tight interference fit
Just did the driver's side front corner (took me 2 hours - first time). Are the brake pads supposed to slide freely inside the abutment clips? They fit tightly inside, and I'm worried the pads will rub excessively on the disc.
Yes to all your questions. Have you got any more for me?Based on this, and your damn near complete lack of understanding on how to replace brake pads, it could be anything.
Did you replace the stainless clip assemblies? You're supposed to.
Did you properly disassemble, clean, and lubricate the caliper pins? You're supposed to.
Did you use the proper tool to depress the piston? You're supposed to.
I am an engineer. And thanks to you, I now know what kind of fit I am supposed to have. 🙄So you are a car engineer now? You decided how much of a "tight interference" fit is needed?
I wish you had felt this way before you posted at all.There's more, but these are rhetorical questions, at this point I don't give a shit.
By the way, I am sorry to have angered you by doubting your infallible wisdom. Truly I am.
Don't flatter yourself, sister.
I am by far not the only one that thinks you are an idiot for taking it upon yourself to machine the parts that the auto company spent millions in R&D on.
Whatever makes you feel good, you know?
Who says that Raybestos didn't happen to manufacture the pad slightly large?
Maybe the pad should have failed QC...
What's the worst that could happen if you strip off the paint from both of the tabs to make the pads fit perfectly?
Were not talking about life or death here-just doing a proper brake job.
If you don't know how to do one don't bother trying until you watch some videos or have someone show you.