Just did the driver's side front corner (took me 2 hours - first time). Are the brake pads supposed to slide freely inside the abutment clips? They fit tightly inside, and I'm worried the pads will rub excessively on the disc.
Brakes
- Thread starter Howard
- Start date
You did do both sides right?
But the pads should slide freely on some cars and some they have clips to attach them to the caliper.
This your CTS?
Also my rig in your sig does not work. Looks like a dead site?
But the pads should slide freely on some cars and some they have clips to attach them to the caliper.
This your CTS?
Also my rig in your sig does not work. Looks like a dead site?
I did not do both sides - it got dark before I was able to do the other front. I did drive around a little bit, seemed OK; no noise and felt smooth.
lol
Also, I got the Raybestos Advanced Technology pads all around, which are supposed to be ceramic. They look the part for the front, but the rear pads look like they have copper flakes inside?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61810193@N07/5625431989/in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61810193@N07/5625431989/in/photostream
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alkemyst
No Lifer
- Feb 13, 2001
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if the pistons have been retracted you would not see this behavior until after the brakes are pumped and should be rechecked once bled.
Meghan54
Lifer
- Oct 18, 2009
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Ceramic brake pads are rarely, if ever, purely ceramic but instead a mix of ceramic and other metals/compounds. The amount of ceramics used is completely dependent upon the manufacturer. For instance, I've heard Akebono pads use much higher percentages of ceramics in their pads than other brands.
Am curious how the Raybestos pads you chose will do long term. As I've never been a fan of the brand (more a Wagner/Bendix user myself), I'd be interested to find out how they wear
Doppel
Lifer
- Feb 5, 2011
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I put some after markets on one of my cars recently and the pads were extremely snug in the calipers, so snug in fact that I used a grinder to very gently shorten their height. In the past when I've done brakes the pads have fit in the caliper nicely but been loose enough that they slip around and fall out before I get them onto the car. In this case they were almost jammed in there. I think they should move freely. If they don't, once the piston pushes them in they will be less motivated to separate again from the rotor when brake is released.
Maybe if you want the brake pads to start on fire....
I have an even better idea. Let's drive with the parking brake on. It's a trick my girlfriend showed me.
EightySix Four
Diamond Member
- Jul 17, 2004
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exdeath
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- Jan 29, 2004
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Take a normally functioning car, drive it 5-10 mph down a side street some appreciable distance. Stop the vehicle with only engine braking and the rear parking brake.
Explain in ten words or less why the front brakes are hot, that is, hotter than ambient temperature.
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That's what I'm thinking... so a couple of votes for tightness being OK, and one vote for looseness?
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With all rust cleared away the brake pads should slide freely-myself, I have only had to grind the backing (TABS) plate on a set of brakes once-after market pads on a ford (NAPA)
EightySix Four
Diamond Member
- Jul 17, 2004
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They will slide quite easily but still be touching, it shouldn't be a done of force. Putting the fronts on my Corvette took serious effort even with the calipers opened all the way. Once they went over though, the weel turned with a bit of effort and they worked great.
Looseness-once you release the pedal it should turn freely-that is a no brainer(minimal scraping).
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alkemyst
No Lifer
- Feb 13, 2001
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Start a new thread, seriously they are free.
You shouldn't have squeal..but like all posts for help: Year/Make/Model and what did you replace with what?
Hmm, well there is a little bit of resistance to turn. I'm going to have to take it apart today and sand down the edges of the pad backing so that they can slide inside the caliper bracket.
Christ. Two mentions of grinding/sanding brake parts in one thread. WTF is wrong with you people? If you have to modify the pads in any way, grind/sand/modify ANYTHING, you're doing it wrong.
Don't forget to clean and re-lubricate (silicone grease) the caliper guide/slide pins/bolts, and using a small amount on the BACK of the pads where they contact the caliper, and on the side contact areas will help reduce squeaks/noises from brake pads.
Don't forget to clean and re-lubricate (silicone grease) the caliper guide/slide pins/bolts, and using a small amount on the BACK of the pads where they contact the caliper, and on the side contact areas will help reduce squeaks/noises from brake pads.
Your car does that because it's designed by the same Chinese engineer responsible for those crappy Ford Mustang transmissions. Real engineers from real countries like Japan and USA put springs in the brakes to pull the brake pads back and stop them from rubbing.
The travel distance of the brake pads is why the brakes in all Toyota vehicles feel so mushy. It's actually one if the first things people complain about when they drive a Toyota for the first time. "the pads aren't wearing down fast enough, waaaah I want my chinese designed Geo Metro back"
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/84504-soft-brakes-and-creeping/
Doppel
Lifer
- Feb 5, 2011
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Really, you can vouch for the fact that the after market pads I bought fit perfectly into my calipers? All that over the internet?! Amazing. The pad ears were just a tiny bit too high and I needed a hammer to tap them out.
Others have done the same http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,41840,42236
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