Bowled a 240 tonight

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virtuamike

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 2000
7,845
13
81
Originally posted by: DingDingDao

That's a good ball, but I would strongly advise against purchasing balls on the internet for a few reasons:

1) If you buy a ball from your local pro, he'll probably be able to give you a pretty good deal on the ball, drilled with inserts--possibly even better than the online price + shipping + drilling/inserts (around $35).

Eh, yes and no. In my experience it's been tough to beat online prices even after paying for drilling locally. There are plenty of bargains to be found online. My dad picked up a factory 2nd Track GP2 for $75 shipped. Had a couple finish blemishes that came right out on the sander. You do have to know what you're looking for though in order to get a good deal, and ultimately it's less of a hassle getting it locally. Besides at most you usually only save $20-30.

2) More importantly, if you buy from your local pro and he cracks the ball during drilling (not uncommon), he'll replace the ball for free. If you bring him a ball you bought online and he cracks it during drilling, you're SOL.

Yikes. Ummm, it's common only if the driller's rushing it. I've seen well over 40 balls drilled (just between me and my dad we have 25) and the only time I ever saw a ball crack was because a thumb insert got hammered in too soon after drilling (too hot, too tight). And on something like that, a driller will fix it assuming it's limited to just coverstock and doesn't run through to the core.

3) Most importantly, every ball is different in two key aspects: pin-out and top weight. Without going into too much detail, these two characteristics vary from ball to ball within the same model line, and improper values for pin-out and top weight can keep a ball from hooking regardless of the drilling pattern. When you buy online, it is difficult to get a ball with the exact specs you want, whereas your local driller can find you the ball you want with the exact specs necessary for proper hooking. FYI: For a ball to hook properly, look for a pin-out of 3-4" and a top weight around 3 oz.

This area's up for debate, and it also heavily depends on layout. Simply put, coverstock and ball speed have a lot more to do with overall hook than pin weight and placement. You can alter the breakpoint a few inches and change backend/flare by playing with layout, but technique and lane conditions trump equipment variances every time. We're talking an inch here and an ounce there - take some forward speed off and increase your revs and I guarantee you'll see a monster difference.
 

virtuamike

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 2000
7,845
13
81
Originally posted by: Codewiz
Ok, I am joining a bowling league. I used to straight bowl but I have been working on using a hook on the ball. I have gotten pretty good at it for a newbie. On my first game of the night, I usually average around 160. Yeah not that high but pretty good for me. I usually go downhill from there because my arm gets tired and I don't follow through. My biggest issue is picking up spares at this point.

I am looking to get my own ball. Anyone got a recommendation for someone that is just learning to spinning the ball? Fingertip holes or regular holes? I am just tired of going bowling and using a different ball everytime I bowl. What type of ball? Reactive coverstock, urethane, etc?

Definitely go fingertip. It's insanely hard getting lift with a conventional (though it does teach you how to rotate the ball correctly). If you're having issues picking up spares then it sounds like you need to work on your mechanics. Try to limit excess motion and keep it simple - hips straight, shoulder pointed at your target, arm straight, etc. Swing smooth and don't muscle the ball. Getting a ball that's fit to your hand will improve your arm mechanics because you won't grip as hard.

As far as surface goes, ask your local driller. He knows the lane conditions at your alley better than anyone else so he'll match you up right. I bowl a lot on wood lanes and they oil the hell out of them and change the pattern every few weeks so my collection is weird, plus with the heat even with the heavy block it'll break down fast. This summer I'm bowling with a Brunswick Danger Zone HPD, a Brunswick Absolute Inferno, and Lane #1 Tsunami H2O.
 

DingDingDao

Diamond Member
Jun 9, 2004
3,044
0
71
Originally posted by: virtuamike
This area's up for debate, and it also heavily depends on layout. Simply put, coverstock and ball speed have a lot more to do with overall hook than pin weight and placement. You can alter the breakpoint a few inches and change backend/flare by playing with layout, but technique and lane conditions trump equipment variances every time. We're talking an inch here and an ounce there - take some forward speed off and increase your revs and I guarantee you'll see a monster difference.

Great post--definitely some good information. Regarding technique, I agree wholeheartedly. My pro told me once, "If the ball isn't doing what you want, 1% of the time it's the ball & drilling, and 99% it's user error." If your technique is good, then you can pretty much bowl any ball--but in the case of the new bowler, I'd try to eliminate any other problems and get a ball spec'd and drilled out to give the maximum possible control to a new hooking bowler.