Body damage from car accident (PICS)...

[mvbighead]

Car above is a 2007 Chevy Impala LT. Looking for estimate of damage from those in the know. BB on car is around 10k, not sure what amount of damage constitutes totaled out, but I doubt I'll be that lucky. Note - the frame is bent above the driver's door, kinda hard to see, but it is buckled.

Also looking for best way to get quotes? Dealer body shop to ensure that GM parts are used? Other driver is at fault, so payment SHOULD all be on him.

Accident was a three car mashup. I was stopped at a red light (heading west), as was a similar looking pontiac grand prix on the opposite side heading east. Light turns green, we both start to go and he gets nearly all the way through the intersection and a Jeep Patriot (heading north at about 45 mph), completely oblivious to his red light, smashes in the rear passenger side of the Grand Prix, which sends him spinning right at me, and he slip with the front of his car into my driver's side door. Ticket was issued to the driver of the Patriot (a 16-18 year old kid who was driving with his dad in the passenger seat). Now I have to deal with getting estimates and that type of fun stuff.

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!

 

[Bartman39]

Approx $3800-4800 depending on the any damage that I cant see...? Parts are a good $1500-1800 then labor & paint work... Depending on frame damage is the main factor but doubt it will total...?


Then again I might be full of it... :biggrin:

Happy Thanksgiving...!

 

[Excelsior]

That hit doesn't appear to be that bad. The rocker panel looks relatively untouched. I can't imagine there being much underlying unibody damage. A door shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars from a yard. The bend above the door is hard to assess over the net. My body guy would have it done for well under 1k total most likely.

 

[mvbighead]

That hit doesn't appear to be that bad. The rocker panel looks relatively untouched. I can't imagine there being much underlying unibody damage. A door shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars from a yard. The bend above the door is hard to assess over the net. My body guy would have it done for well under 1k total most likely.

No, the hit wasn't too terrible... but just looking at the buckling of the upper portion, I can't imagine what all else is screwed up. I know that, for whatever reason, when the car was turned off with the key out of the ignition, the radio remained on for some time. The light switch on the dashboard is a turnable knob, which felt like it was binding against something as if the dashboard was pushed in.

As for a door from a yard... not exactly what I am looking for. Like I said, given that his insurance is going to be paying for the damage, I am looking to get things fixed as close to 100% as possible. If a door from GM costs 500 bucks, (and given that both doors are damaged), that's 1000 bucks there, no? Hell, I had a small strip of trim on the passenger door that cost $230 bucks to fix. I'd figure a door is gonna be a helluva lot more than that. That, and the trim panels will have to be replaced also.

Bartman's estimate is about along the lines of what I was guessing... though I have absolutely no idea about such things, so my was just a wild guess.

However, your quote is something that has been crossing my mind... if I get a repair quote from a dealer that suggests it'll cost $4800 and I have that confirmed with another top quality shop (perhaps another dealer or a top of the line type of shop) and both quotes come to about $5000, am I then issued a check from his insurance company so I can go deal with the damages? If so, I should be free to use that money to go pay a smaller (lesser dollar type of shop) to fix it to good enough, so I can sell the vehicle?

IE - If the insurance gives me $5000, I fix it for $2000, and sell it for $9000, that should leave me with $12000 to go replace the car with something that hasn't been in an accident. Is this common practice with wrecked vehicles? Is it legal?

I guess I am just very leery with this as I've heard stories about once the body/frame etc. gets any amount of damage, you can't really expect it to ever be the same again. I'd much rather not deal with any of that if I don't have to. Though perhaps having it fixed by a dealer would be ideal and it'd be back to fine? I dunno.

Thanks for the input guys... very much appreciated.

 

[Mermaidman]

... if I get a repair quote from a dealer that suggests it'll cost $4800 and I have that confirmed with another top quality shop (perhaps another dealer or a top of the line type of shop) and both quotes come to about $5000, am I then issued a check from his insurance company so I can go deal with the damages? If so, I should be free to use that money to go pay a smaller (lesser dollar type of shop) to fix it to good enough, so I can sell the vehicle?

Yes. I pocketed the difference when the other driver's insurance cut me a check. I believe this is harder to do if YOUR OWN insurance is paying because obviously they want to ensure that the car is repaired completely and you will not double-dip.

To the OP: I think replacement door panels would be relatively cheap because Impalas are so common. But since it's the other driver's insurance--you should get the highest legitimate quotes. Looks like you will have extra X'Mas money. :twisted:

 

[boomerang]

I know that, for whatever reason, when the car was turned off with the key out of the ignition, the radio remained on for some time.

This is normal behavior that you may not have noticed before. The radio (and some other things too) will still be powered with the key off for 10 minutes, IIRC, or until the drivers door is opened.

 

[Bartman39]

Just to update my estimates were for a proper top notch repair from a good shop or dealer (prefer a good shop to a dealer) and with all new GM parts... Also padded to cover damage that you indicated in the frame to the worst case...

Also the insurance company may want proof of repairs possibly but most likely dont care so long as you sign off that you were paid...

 

[Excelsior]

I guess I am just very leery with this as I've heard stories about once the body/frame etc. gets any amount of damage, you can't really expect it to ever be the same again. I'd much rather not deal with any of that if I don't have to. Though perhaps having it fixed by a dealer would be ideal and it'd be back to fine? I dunno.

This is simply not true. Its a myth perpetuated by the uniformed. First off, a dealer isn't always the best body shop. Secondly, they will almost always charge the most. And yes, if their insurance will be cutting you a check then you can go get an estimate from a shop, get a check for that amount, then have the repair done for less and pocket the rest. My pops just did this with his truck.

If the hit was bad enough to damage the frame around the drivers door then the worst case scenario would be having a shop cut it out and weld in a good piece. This sounds worse than it is. A good shop just matches the holes right up and welds the same spots. This in and of itself would cost ~1500-2000. I checked www.car-part.com and found some doors in the ~$500 range.

Just to update my estimates were for a proper top notch repair from a good shop or dealer (prefer a good shop to a dealer) and with all new GM parts... Also padded to cover damage that you indicated in the frame to the worst case...

Absolutely. And this is the estimate he would want to get, ideally.

 

[Sluggo]

but just looking at the buckling of the upper portion, I can't imagine what all else is screwed up

Its a little difficult to tell from the picture, but is the buckling you are speaking the silver arched part above the window? Isn't that just the window frame, a part of the door? maybe there is other buckling that isn't visible in the picture.

 

[mvbighead]

Can someone let me know what equates to totaled? As in, if the estimated repair is $5000, and the car is worth $10,000, whats the difference until it is considered totaled?

As to the repair, I guess at this point I am simply looking to get the most expensive legitimate quote I can. Then getting it repaired to "good enough" to either sell or simply live with as is. If it isn't too bad, maybe it'd be worth keeping.

I know the dealer I bought from seems to do good body work (based on their customer letters and before and after pics), but I probably won't be using them for the repairs... that is, unless my wife and I plan to keep it... in which case maybe we do.

OH... as for the radio, you might be right there. Seeings as my getting in/out of the vehicle from that point was done from the passenger's side (hopping the center console). I did open a door, but not the driver door, which would always turn off the radio... so that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[mvbighead]

Its a little difficult to tell from the picture, but is the buckling you are speaking the silver arched part above the window? Isn't that just the window frame, a part of the door? maybe there is other buckling that isn't visible in the picture.

Sorry, I'm way away from my car so I can't get a better quality picture at the moment. Here is a crop of the previous pic highlighting the damage as best I can. Essentially, it is supposed to be a smooth frame, and it is bent in two place about 6 inches apart from each other. New pic probably won't help too much, but best I could do at the moment.

 

[boomerang]

Those puckers in the area of the door header are nothing to be taken lightly. The panel they're in essentially makes up the entire side of the car. The rear quarter panel, the header going over the doors, the two door hinge and jam areas as well as the rocker panel area is entirely one panel. It's referred to in the industry as a 'body side' or 'body side frame'. Think of what it would take to create that damage. The entire drivers side door frame area has been punched inward.

I'm not a body man and have never been one, so if this panel can be pulled back using modern equipment or not is beyond my scope of knowledge. But mvbighead, I hope I don't come across as an ass, but you really just need to take it in for estimates. They're going to be able to tell you if it's repairable or not. The cost is going to determine whether the car will be repaired or scrapped. We can't tell you here what the numbers are and how it will shake out. You're not going to have Carte Blanche just because the other insurer is paying for the repairs either. They're going to watch their money as closely as your insurer.

The only people that can answer your questions are the pros. You should be in touch with either your or both insurers to find out how to proceed.

I think these repairs are going to fall into a gray area. You're going to be right at the tipping point of repair versus scrap. But...I'm no body man by any means.

 

[CRXican]

if you're lucky it's totaled

try not to buy a terrible appliance this time

 

[PlasmaBomb]

:hmm:

At first I thought it wasn't too bad, but then I noticed the odd crease above the door...

Can't tell you how much that will cost, sorry...

The cut off point is about 80% here (that is if more than 8k damage was done to a 10k car)... It may vary in the states though...

You are also unlikely to be able to sell a car with a BB value of 10k for 9k if it has been in an accident... it will show up on the carfax (or equivalent check).

Glad to hear that you are OK, and hope that the rest of Turkey Day goes better...

PB

 

[boomerang]

if you're lucky it's totaled

try not to buy a terrible appliance this time

Oooh, you've piqued my curiosity. Please list all the good ones. Anything manufactured in say, the last five years will be acceptable.

 

[mvbighead]

Oooh, you've piqued my curiosity. Please list all the good ones. Anything manufactured in say, the last five years will be acceptable.

Me too. To be honest, I really have liked owning that car. Not sure why it'd be considered a bad appliance.

I do realize I'll need to take it in for estimates, but I just wanted to hear what impressions some trusted gear heads would have on the subject. Like I said, I know very little. But I do figure that'll be pretty pricey to repair.

Unfortunately, I am 5 hours away from the car as I am spending the holidays with the in-laws. Will have to proceed with professional estimates starting next week.

Thanks all for the advice. It has been very much appreciated.