Black dots off the t-bird :-( (And one other question on a peltier)

[elektronic]

I was cleaning old thermal paste off it with Goo Gone, getting ready to put some ASII on it.

The goo gone disolved the glue on the black dots and they came off, one went down my sink drain.

So, is it ok to mount a heatsink w/o the black dots, or should I order a shim/new t-bird?
I have a peltier on the way as well.

Also, when mounting the peltier and the heatsink, how do I get the heatsink on top of the peltier to reach a standard CPU socket clip?

 

[Woodchuck2000]

It's okay to mount a HSF as long as you ensure that is isnt crooked when you apply pressure. If you're worried, pick up a shim as this almost eliminates the chance of cracking a corner.

As far as mounting peltiers go, they like a <lot> of pressure to operate effectively so it's wise not to use a shim as that will spread the force over a larger area. mounting a HSF on top of the peltier really depends on the model you have. What peltier/HSF combo are you using?

It's worth noting that you're gonna need a heck of a heatsink to cope with a peltier - they're traditionally used with watercooling because they put out considerably more heat than a thunderbird alone.

And A beefy PSU while you're at it - a peltier draws 50-100w from your 12 volt line...

Oh, and happy overclocking, let us know how high you get

 

[elektronic]

<< It's okay to mount a HSF as long as you ensure that is isnt crooked when you apply pressure. If you're worried, pick up a shim as this almost eliminates the chance of cracking a corner.

As far as mounting peltiers go, they like a <lot> of pressure to operate effectively so it's wise not to use a shim as that will spread the force over a larger area. mounting a HSF on top of the peltier really depends on the model you have. What peltier/HSF combo are you using?

It's worth noting that you're gonna need a heck of a heatsink to cope with a peltier - they're traditionally used with watercooling because they put out considerably more heat than a thunderbird alone.

And A beefy PSU while you're at it - a peltier draws 50-100w from your 12 volt line...

Oh, and happy overclocking, let us know how high you get >>



believe it or not, I'm not trying to O/C this thing, I just want the thing to be quiet. So maybe I won't use the peltier, or I'll have to decrease the wattage. Right now I'm using a thermalright sk6 HS that I just got. (BTW, I bent the pins on that t-bird and I have another 1.3 coming to replace my 1.2, good thing I have a decent job for a kid in high school)

 

[BUTTUGLY]

Youre going to make a lot more noise air cooling a peltier not to mention higher case temperatures and increased power supply heat. I used to use peltiers on 300-450mhz oc'ed Celerons and it worked only because of the low wattage of those intel cpu's.

 

[WarCon]

You should look more carefully into peltiers before you consider using one on your bird. Without watercooling it is almost a sure thing that you will cook your processor. It is easy to overload the peltier junction with heat and suddenly have all the heat you have been giving it and the heat it produces suddenly able to go nowhere and come flooding back to the core and pop.

Mr Thompson has (maybe still does) run a peltier setup on a tbird, he can explain the increased cooling requirements very well.

 

[clumsum]

I use Vaseline (on a Q-tip) instead of GooGone ........ to clean the AS-II or tim off the cpu, then some nail polish remover (again on a Q-tip) to clean off the Vaseline.

Seems to work good and the GooGone is best for cleaning the HSF.

 

[Smaulz]

Never use GooGone or any other citrus or oil based cleaners on the HS/CPU... See This

 

[clumsum]

I guess it wasn't plain in my post ................. ?

You always have to clean off the Vaseline or GooGone (or any other residue) before using the AS-II ..........hense the nail polish remover, or alcohol or some others, to get the surface as clean as possible.

The article states early on that the Artic Silver is "grease" (based)? ................ so I don't see the big deal about finger prints, but I'm sure it's best to keep all surfaces as clean as possible.

Thanks Smaulz for the additional info ........... and an excellent link!

 

[MrThompson]

Acetone won't remove vaseline from your HS or CPU. Please DON'T use vaseline or your thermal interface will be compromised.

Regarding the missing pads you can use 1/16" neoprene availble from Danger Den or a shim.

Pelts and AMD CPUs require watercooling. I have seen a couple folks do it with a Swiftech MC462 but the results were not good. BTW, my pelt rig is going to be replaced with a dual PIII, hopefully by the end of the week.

 

[clumsum]

The Vaseline is mainly for use in cleaning off the Artic Silver from around the cpu die, on the ceramic surface .........around the bridges and areas where you mainly want to collect as much AS as possible and control what you are using on the surface ...........hence you don't get wild and loose the pads from too much liquid thinner (whatever kind you use).

That's what I used anyway, many times with no ill effects ..............you still have to remove the residue from the Vaseline.

"please don't use vaseline or your thermal interface will be compromised."

You thermal interface will not be compromised if you clean it all off before applying the thermal interface!

 

[MrThompson]

As long as you don't get it on the CPU die or the HS, vaseline is ok.

 

[clumsum]

MrThompson,

Do you know what medium is used as a base for the Artic Silver II compound?

 

[MrThompson]

ASII uses premium grade silicone. There is a huge difference between silicone oils. The current goop Radio Shack buys has really cheap silicone, that's why it dries out so fast. The new Arctic Silver 3 uses something similar to Arctic Alumina. From the Alumina page at Artic Silver's Web Site:


<< Arctic Alumina is the first thermal compound engineered for controlled triple phase viscosity.
The complex polysynthetic oils work together to provide three distinctive functional phases. As it comes from the tube, Arctic Alumina's consistency is optimized for easy application in a thin, even layer. During the CPU's initial use, the Arctic Alumina compound thins out to enhance the filling of the microscopic valleys and insure the best physical contact between the heatsink and CPU core. Then the compound thickens slightly over the next 20 to 100 hours of use to its final consistency designed for long-term stability.
(This should not be confused with conventional phase change pads that are pre-attached to many heatsinks. Those pads melt each time they get hot then re-solidify when they cool. The viscosity changes that Arctic Alumina goes through are much more subtle and ultimately much more effective.) >>