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BIOS Freezing

G

gss6

Junior Member
I have an ECS 648FX-A2 and have had nothing but problems with it, at first I would run WinXP, but after bluescreens whenever I would run sound on it for a prolonged time (music). So no big deal, I switch over to Linux (Ubuntu) which I also know pretty well. So a few months pass and a week ago my computer boots and just freezes after recognizing the CPU. Can not get into CMOS settings.

Any ideas?
 
Could it be a bad plug/electricity to the unit? I am currently away from it, but I have read bad wall plugs can do some pretty odd things. I live in a house where circuits breaking are not uncommon. I might pick up a UPS tomorrow.
 
Did you try with only single memory stick and the video? Default the board yet?
Try memory test or use different memory stick.
 
Originally posted by: gss6
...I switch over to Linux (Ubuntu) which I also know pretty well. ... my computer boots and just freezes after recognizing the CPU. Can not get into CMOS settings. ...
Click to expand...
Originally posted by: gss6
memtest86?
Click to expand...

The Ubuntu install CD has memtest86+ on it. Just stick the disc in the drive and restart the system. memtest86+ can be selected from the boot menu.

The system freezing after boot, without allowing entry into the bios tells me you probably have an old power supply that is not providing enough power. I recommend a new, stronger power supply. I prefer Fortron's (Sparkle) since they are competitively priced for their quality.

I have also experienced the symptoms you describe with the system freezing after restarting. This happened to me when I had a 350W Enlight PSU and I had just replaced my skt939 AMD 64 3000+ (1.8GHz) single core cpu with a new AMD Opteron 175 (2.2GHz) dual core cpu. Everything worked well once I replaced the old 350W PSU v1.0 (20 pin) with a new Fortron 400W v2.0 with the 20+4 motherboard connection pins. You may have a similar situation.
 
Sorry, I forgot that I can't boot for a second when I posted that, so I have no way to test the status of the memory though software. It could very well be the power supply, but I'm going to try a UPS before. The problem in the house is that its house built in the 70's and I believe the integrity of power to the house has been compromised. In the summer and early fall, every room runs a room AC (7 rooms), and it is not uncommon for the circuit to break. I have a Chieftec 400W PSU as of now. So a UPS would probably be good to begin with, if that doesn't work, a PSU will be next I think.

Thanks.
 
A UPS with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) or line conditioning would definitely help regulate the power going into the power supply. I strongly believe in the use of battery backups with AVR, especially in a building with older electrical wiring. I agree with your thinking.
 
OK, time to shoot some questions...

Ok, I have a 3.0ghz P4 with the 12V connection
full ATX mobo
NVidia geforcefx 5700 vid card
1x DVD burner
1x CD Burner
1x floppy drive
1x TV card
2x 80mm case fans
Im going to be putting in a Zalman CNPS5700D-Cu

How much wattage do I need in a PSU

How many VA's (whatever the heck those are) in the UPS to power the unit enough to safely use and shutdown the unit?
 
For the power supply, 350 Watts is on the edge while 400 Watts is definitely enough. The processor, video card, and hard drives are the largest power draws in the system. You forgot to mention how many hard drives are in this system. Although it really does not matter much since the largest power draw of a hard drive is when it starts and hard drives currently have a staggered starting feature to lessen the combined power draw.

The APC 500VA 315W UPS should be enough. It is only necessary to plug the computer case into the UPS but there is a tendency to also plug in the monitor. This model should have AVR but I cannot find it listed as such right now. I am familiar with the 700VA unit of this model, which does possess AVR. APC is the proven brand but other companies will have similar models cheaper.

I believe a 'VA' is a Volt-Amp. But I do not understand the marketing of this unit since (1 Watt = 1 Volt * 1 Amp).
 
I went to Staples here (I really didn't want to pay the ridiculous shipping for these heavy units, and I refuse to shop at Best Buy) and got theCyberPower CP685AVR for like $80 bucks, the lowest APC they had with AVR was like $150, I've read that Cyberpower is an OK name, APC is definitely the brand, but the Cyberpower does come with a $175,000 connected equipment guarantee, so it can't be too awful, I think.

I have one SATA 320gb hard drive (1.5gb/s)

So the Ultra ULT33134 400W Modular PSU would be enough? It's a pretty good price.
 
Wow! thank you so much for providing the CyberPower reference. I have been looking for something like that for a long time. That is perfect for your, and my own, needs.

The Ultra 400W PSU is good. I like the 120mm fan. I am not familiar with the Ultra brand though and have no idea how reliable this will be. This brand sounds familiar and it is not in my memory for being a good brand. I think other people in this forum have had problems with Ultra.

Here is a good link to read. Power Supply 101
My preferred company is Fortron, also known as Sparkle. I would suggest any of the 400W psu's listed here: NewEgg PSU's
Rosewill is included since it is an in-house brand for NewEgg and they seem to provide good quality components at competitive pricing, such as their cases. It is further reassuring to see numerous Rosewill PSU's listed on the Power Supply 101 link provided above.

Maybe you live in California and do not wish to purchase from NewEgg. From the list of brands available at TigerDirect, I would look at:
  • Coolmax
  • Enermax, or
  • ThermalTake
Maybe someone else has more information on Ultra PSU's?
 
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