Bicycle Experts! It's time for Skoorb to buy a bike.

[GTaudiophile]

Man, screw all those kids' toys called bikes! Get $4K and get The Ultimate Biking Machine.

 

[DAPUNISHER]

Hey Skoorb
I've been BMX/mountainbiking for 20+ years and the advice about bike fit is paramount. Also, If you can find someone in your area who still has some GT's then test ride an i-drive because if you like the fit and plush ride then This (BTW, full-suspension will take care of your aching back ) is by far the most bike your going to get new in your price range and it's a quality bike to boot. If not stick with Trek and Cannondale as All of their frame sets have lifetime warranties and are top quality bikes. As others pointed out, you can upgrade the components as desired or needed to meet your riding habits. The last important component to consider is your seat, after all it's where you spend most your time so get a good seat!

 

[StageLeft]

dapunisher You know I bet a full suspension would help it but I can't foot that bill right now. I find that on the trails my back is under way more stress than on road and I bet that's why - because my spine is the rear suspension :Q

 

[DAPUNISHER]

Bummer They could probably ship it to your door for 450$ or so.

 

[StageLeft]

<< Bummer They could probably ship it to your door for 450$ or so. >>

Oh God don't tempt me. Please stop!!

 

[FrustratedUser]

<< Best Site for Research

2000 Azonic DS-1 - $500

Specialized Stumpjumper M2 - XT parts, Judy Fork: $500

Like others have said, look around at mtbr.com. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Rob >>



The Stumpjumber is a GREAT bike with good components. You can't go wrong with that one if it's the right size.
Good choice!

 

[Hayabusa Rider]

Skoorb, what do you weigh?

Edit- based on Skoorbs riding needs, why is a mountain bike better than a hybrid? I have a Trek, and havent broken it yet. Bet Im bigger than most here, so it is tough enough, and if he rides on the road, there is much less rolling resistance.

 

[StageLeft]

<< Skoorb, what do you weigh?

Edit- based on Skoorbs riding needs, why is a mountain bike better than a hybrid? I have a Trek, and havent broken it yet. Bet Im bigger than most here, so it is tough enough, and if he rides on the road, there is much less rolling resistance. >>

I'm about 190!

 

[Hammer]

Skoorb, haven't I taught you anything about dealing with chicks?

Here's what you do buy some cheap jewelry for MrsSkoorb, but act like it costs a lot more. Then buy yourself the bike, and act like you got it on sale or something.



<< I would like the giant as well or maybe another $100 but "I'm not allowed" :| >>

 

[vailr]

Folding bike: http://www.voltcycle.com/dahon_matrix_folding_bike.htm
2002 Dahon Matrix specifications
Color:
Brushed aluminum w/ electro deposition clear coat
Folded Size:
15" x 27" x 36" (38 x 68 x 91 cm)
Weight:
29 lbs. (13.2 kg)
Folding Time:
20 seconds
Suggested Rider Height:
5'6" - 6'2"
Max Rider Weight:
230 lbs. (105 kg.)
$489.95 WITH FREE SHIPPING

 

[yakko]

<< I'm spending only $300-400 on this mountain bike (actually a week ago I thought that was a lot. damn store guys!). >>

That is a drop in the bucket on some of the bikes out there. The mountian bike I am looking to build I priced out at around $3800.

 

[DAPUNISHER]

<< Skoorb, what do you weigh?

Edit- based on Skoorbs riding needs, why is a mountain bike better than a hybrid? I have a Trek, and havent broken it yet. Bet Im bigger than most here, so it is tough enough, and if he rides on the road, there is much less rolling resistance. >>

Here's Trek's site, just pick the bike finder and scroll to the 7100 it's the basic hybrid and should be in his price range, However you can put slicks on your mountain bike for road riding and enjoy very little rolling resistance. The weight difference wouldn't be that much between it and a low-end mountain bike and that model has no suspension so it would provide more torque to the pedals so it well could be a good choice for his style of riding. I personally prefer "Urban assault" to just making revolutions when riding on the road at which point my full suspension Cannondale with 2.1s is a ball, but hey, to each his own

 

[Thegonagle]

Trek 7100, linked, {*OFFICIAL*}.

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

<<

<< I'm spending only $300-400 on this mountain bike (actually a week ago I thought that was a lot. damn store guys!). >>

That is a drop in the bucket on some of the bikes out there. The mountian bike I am looking to build I priced out at around $3800. >>



What kind of bike are you looking at? I am idly looking at FS bikes lately, but I am inclined to wait until I can afford a Seven Duo, which would be tough to build up for significantly less than $5,000. I guess a Santa Cruz or FSX would be more practical . . .

What do you ride now?

 

[yakko]

Don_Vito,

I am looking at a custom frame from here. It will use Easton sc7000 scandium tubing. That is around $1300 for frame and fork. These Mavic wheels which is another $850 Avid disc brakes and levers which add another $300. The rest is going to be built using Easton stem, Chris King headset, Race Face cranks and bottom bracket, Easton seatpost, Shimano Dura-Ace shifters and deraileurs. I am going to go all out on this thing.

 

[oLLie]

<< Hey Skoorb
I've been BMX/mountainbiking for 20+ years and the advice about bike fit is paramount. Also, If you can find someone in your area who still has some GT's then test ride an i-drive because if you like the fit and plush ride then This (BTW, full-suspension will take care of your aching back ) is by far the most bike your going to get new in your price range and it's a quality bike to boot. If not stick with Trek and Cannondale as All of their frame sets have lifetime warranties and are top quality bikes. As others pointed out, you can upgrade the components as desired or needed to meet your riding habits. The last important component to consider is your seat, after all it's where you spend most your time so get a good seat! >>


Hey there's a SuperGo store about 1/2 a mile from my house! Guess that doesn't help Skoorb in AL

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

Yakko:

Nice - I think the Teesdale frames are nice for the money, though I am personally more of a steel/ti guy in terms of frame materials (I currently just ride titanium, but have an extra, nice steel road bike as well). Are you building a 26"-wheeled 'cross bike or something? Otherwise it seems odd to have 26" wheels and Dura-Ace. You can probably get the Mavic wheels at a deep, deep discount from one of the English vendors, like Total Cycling or any number of others. Should be sweet in any case.

 

[Brutuskend]

<< dosent brutuskend (sp?) work in a bike shop? you might have some luck picking his brain >>



Why yes, yes I do...

The newer bikes use threadless head sets. (Which are NON adjustable in the conventional way, but you can get a stem with a steeper angle which will give you a more upright riding position, and they are very easy to change out {AND FAST}

For off road riding you need a longer/flater stem because you need to have enough of your weight over the front wheel other wise when you start climbing a steep hill you can't keep your front wheel on the ground.

I suggest you get one stem for road ridding (with a more upright angle) and another flater stem for off road.

Stay away from full suspention bikes. They are mainly for downhill, unless you pony up for one with a lock-out on the rear. ($$$$)

MAKE SURE you get the right size frame!!

For on road, most people find a larger frame more comfy because the seat will be lower in relation to the bars. But for off road (IMO) the smaller the frame the better. It will be easyier to handle and you will not bust your jewels!!

While standing over the top tube, with your feet togather, you want to be able to lift the front wheel at least 3-4 inches!! Other wise if your climbing a steep hill off road, and you try to get off, you can't get your feet on the ground!

As far as which brand to get. It really makes little differance. (Most bikes come out of the same 3-4 factories in Asia)

Look for what componants come on the bike. And what the frame is made out of. Cro Mo frames will give a softer ride (They flex somewhat) Alum. will tend to be lighter unless you step up to a REAL high end Cro Mo frame set.

For the most part if you buy a used bike you will get more Bike for your Buck, but you will also get no warrenty.

BTW: I have a Trek 7000 (17 inch) for sale in the FS/FT forum!

Hope this helped you a little bit!



( pardon the spelling, I just don't care today!!! )

EDIT: BTW if you want comfort, get a suspention seat post instead of a F/S frame. Less weight, less upkeep, less moving parts to wear out, much less $$$$$$

 

[StageLeft]

Still playing with ideas here... I went to the other large shop in the area and they had:

Trek 4300 for $339
Gary Fisher (can't remember model but it was a tiny step up from the trek) for $359
Specialized Hardrock for $359.

I wish I was spending more as I know you all do but I ain't The specilized had particularly wide handle bars. The trek looked the best All had threadless handlebar-thingamabobs and adjustable front suspension.

I'll look at that 7100 now too but I really like the idea of front suspension.

 

[Brutuskend]

One more bit of advice.

Check into the Haro's.

They are a LOT of bike for the $$ this year. (Vector V1/V2/V3, escape's {all hard tail's})

And they fit well, ride nice.

I have a Haro Team frame from a few years back & I LOVE it. (Sub 23 Lbs the way I have mine built up)

 

[yakko]

<< Are you building a 26"-wheeled 'cross bike or something? Otherwise it seems odd to have 26" wheels and Dura-Ace. >>

DOH! That should be XTR.

Thanks for that link. It looks like about $300 less for the wheels. I had not done any serious pricing yet as it will be a little while before I build it. $3800 was over estimating anyway just in case I found something I liked better for a little more money.

 

[toant103]

don't buy a Huffy.

Get a Specialized.

 

[Ultima]

Well, bikes can last forever if you're careful. I've had mine for nearly 10 years (since I was 9 or so), and used to bike it a lot in the summer (500km every summer). My brake pads are at their end now and need to be changed, and I need a new front rim cause its bent from getting hit by two cars. Need new reflectors, too, and something's up with my chain cause it jumps when I pedal hard. Other than that though, the bike handles pretty good considering its age and the abuse it went thru

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

<<

<< Are you building a 26"-wheeled 'cross bike or something? Otherwise it seems odd to have 26" wheels and Dura-Ace. >>

DOH! That should be XTR.

Thanks for that link. It looks like about $300 less for the wheels. >>



No problem. Total Cycling is actually in, of all places, Belfast, Northern Ireland. I bought a pair of Sidi Genius 3s from them and was most impressed with their service. The Mavic wheels are pretty well price-fixed in the US, so it is great to be able to get them at a discount. I believe the way the European Union is now structured, there are no duties or VAT owed within the EU, so the European stores are able to sell much cheaper. Their prices are actually in Pounds Sterling, so the price on your card may vary slightly from what appears on the website - my shoes were priced at $125, but I ended up paying $118 or so.

I think as the year goes on, XTR will also go down somewhat in price, because they are phasing in the next-gen stuff in 2003. Supposedly there are pics of it available online somewhere, though I have not seen them. The word on the streets is that the shifters are somehow integrated more tightly with the brake levers (a la the road STI stuff), and that the gruppo is still 9-speed (which I regard as a good thing - I see no reason to further weaken the chain by narrowing it). It's hard to see how the hubs, cranks, BB, or derailleurs could be significantly lightened while remaining burly, but I suppose the levers could trim down a fair amount; we shall see . . .

Happy trails!

 

[Brutuskend]

<< and something's up with my chain cause it jumps when I pedal hard >>



Sounds like your chain is stretched out and or your cogs are worn.

I recommend changing your chain every 1000 miles or so, other wise your cogs get warn as the chain stretchs, and then if you DO change it. It skips because things don't mesh properly anymore....

BTW: For wheel sets....Velocity make some of the BEST rims I have ever seen. FAR better than Mavic these days (IMO)

linky