I have that card, and recently upgraded the cooling. Some tips, and some disappointing news...
I put mine in the freezer, then I used a plastic spatula to pry the stock cooler off. Luckily mine wasn't very well bonded - the Visiontek crew had gotten a bit lazy, and only the edge had epoxy on it. It overclocked stably to 300 regardless.
Getting the residue off was much more difficult than with the typical TIM you see on bargain coolers. I had to basically scrape it. Alot. Sandpaper would work well I think, but I didn't have any handy. The chip is plastic on the outsides with a metal core. It's not really a precision surface - expect to use lots of compound to get a good mating with your heat sink.
The RAM chips are not good candidates for many heatsinks. There is very close placement of a resistor on two sides of each chip. The resistor is taller than the chip, meaning your RAM heat sinks can't be much (if any) larger than the RAM chips in order to still be able to fit - longer RAM heat sinks that are designed to bridge across two chips are out of the question.
The Blue Orb is also a fairly pointless replacement to the stock cooler. It basically is a blue orb already, with a visiontek sticker; all you'll really be doing is replacing the (effective) thermal epoxy / pinless installation with one using compound and pins. It will be a good deal of warranty-voiding work for little benefit. The crystal orb would be a better choice, although I'd probably spring for the much larger copper GF4 cooler.
Also, although the visiontek card has heatsink holes, they are not the same diameter as the thermaltake GPU heatsinks assume; they're too small. If you look at the card, you will see what look to be small washers embedded in each hole. That's what spoils the fit of the pins on coolers like the blue (and crystal) orb. You'll need to drill those out. They're very soft so it's not at all hard. You can even just use a small phillips head if you don't have a drill handy - just a bit of abrasion will clear out the "washer", widening the hole enough to allow the mounting pins to go through.
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As for what I did with mine, I was very disappointed with aftermarket GPU coolers in general. They sacrifice alot in order to fit into a standard card slot. Even the crystal orb was a big letdown. They all seem to provide very little additional cooling, and the GF4 produces alot of heat.
But I don't actually have any PCI cards installed, and if I did it would still be an easy matter to locate any PCI cards in the farthest PCI slot to provide lots of room for a larger AGP card cooler. So I took an old silver orb (socket A) cooler and a bit of arctic alumina epoxy and made a minor addition to my card. It now has a massive, reasonably lightweight aluminum athlon cooler attached, which (aside from looking like a cylinder head stickout out the side of an old motorcycle engine) provides outstanding cooling.
I can complete a 3dmark bench at 330 core, although I usually leave it running 24/7 at 315 - the max you can do with coolbits-enabled nividia drivers (it's nice not having to run powerstrip) and which leaves a nice, comfortable headroom for guaranteed stability.
My RAM maxed out at only 545; 550 is more typical.
This Ti4200 128 meg card does 12,200 3Dmarks (standard settings at 1024*768). My system is a P4 1.6A running at 2.5 (155 bus, XMS3000 memory at 3:4 for 207MHz DDR RAM speed) on an Abit IT7. All air-cooled - using a volcano 7+ on LOW fan speed. Fast and quiet.