Best place to have a tow package installed

[Fardringle]

I have a 2007 Dodge Durango that needs to have a tow hitch added to occasionally drag around a little camp trailer that my wife wants me to buy so she can go camping more (which she enjoys) without a tent (which she doesn't). The trailer is about 2800 pounds loaded so the weight shouldn't be a problem.

I'm just curious if I should go ahead and have my favorite Dodge dealership do the installation and all the wiring for about $680 total for parts, labor and tax, or if some other cheaper option would be just as good. It's not a huge amount of money, but most of the budget is going toward the cost of the trailer itself so I'd like to leave a few pennies in the savings account if possible.

One alternative I have found but don't know much about is U-Haul. My wife says that she found an ad (I haven't seen it) that says they will do a hitch and wiring on the Durango for around $500 total. Anybody know if the quality of the installation and the hitch itself would be comparable to official Dodge/Mopar parts, or would I be saving less than $200 for a risk of shoddy work? Or are there other good options you can suggest in general, or in the Salt Lake City, Utah area if you know of something specific?

 

[compman25]

If you do it yourself you can do it for under $200 with a hitch and wiring harness from etrailer.com. Here's a no drill hitch https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Dodge/Durango/2007/13296.html?vehicleid=2007206643

 

[Fardringle]

I just discovered a note hidden in the owner's manual that says that if the Durango was not initially purchased with the Towing Group Package, its maximum towing capacity is only 2,000 pounds. my Dodge dealer confirmed that is true, and my Durango was not purchased with that package. Unfortunately, the pop-up camper that I am wanting to pull is about 2800 pounds with the water and propane tanks full (and no other cargo loaded) so I guess that's not going to work.

I do appreciate the suggestion, though. That's a great price for a hitch and wiring package and I'll keep it in mind if I need something like that in the future.

 

[thedarkwolf]

bah at least find out what is in the Towing Group Package before you give up. Could just be a transmission cooler.

 

[Fardringle]

Yep, the main problem is the lack of transmission cooler. There are a few other things that would need to be done, but the cooler is the big issue, and while it theoretically shouldn't cost a lot, finding one that actually works with a 2006 (I mistakenly put 2007 in the OP) Durango with a 3.7L engine and AWD is apparently a challenge according to the parts desk at my dealership.

However, etrailers.com does have both plate-fin and tube-fin coolers that they say will fit the Durango, so that might be a good option as well. What is the difference between the two (besides price with the plate about double the cost)?

 

[NutBucket]

Given you're barely exceeding the rates tow weight I'd go for the cheaper one. Sure it won't cool as well but you you're not trying to pull 6000 lbs either.

 

[Fardringle]

The difference is pretty small, so I'm not worried too much about the cost. I was just wondering what the actual difference is between the two. If the plate-fin works better and that is the reason for the higher cost, I'll gladly pay the extra $30 for that one. Dodge says that with the correct equipment, this Durango can pull up to about 3900 pounds. I won't be doing that much with this particular trailer, but having the extra leeway should (I believe) put a little less stress on the vehicle and give me the option to pull something heavier now and then, or put an ATV or extra gear on the cargo deck that is part of the trailer if I want/need to. The Durango is a ten-year-old vehicle that isn't worth much, but replacing it with something that would fit my needs and wants (good clearance and AWD for frequent trips on a sometimes questionable dirt road to the family cabin, three row seating, and now towing a trailer) would cost a lot more than the extra $30 for a better cooler...

 

[Meghan54]

Without a doubt the plate style cooler is superior to the "tube" style, although when you really consider it, the plate style simply uses flattened tubes instead of round tubes. But I believe that's what makes the plate style better...more surface area for the fluid/tube interface and less laminar flow problems with the flatter tubes.

I'd think it's the same reasons that you don't see round tube radiators in cars, nor round tube condensers for the A/C. Interestingly, I do have a factory round tube/fin cooler on my truck.....for the power steering. My trans. has an aux. plate style cooler.


And about install options, DIY if you can, UHaul isn't terrible choice, tho. Had the UHaul in Hyannis, MA install the hitch on our Murano. Did a darned good job. If I couldn't do it myself, I'd probably go back to them.

 

[Fardringle]

I'm a little nervous mounting the hitch myself since if it's not done right it could be very hazardous, but I'm also somewhat tempted to do it just for the cost savings. Taking the most expensive of each of these options totals up to just over $260 (plus tax). That's quite a bit better than $680 plus whatever the cooler would cost through the dealership.

These are the parts that I think I need. Are they correct, and do I need anything else apart from a 4 pin to 7 pin adapter to make the wiring kit fit the 7 pin plug on the trailer and to power the trailer brakes?

Tow bar/hitch:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Dodge/Durango/2006/75292.html?vehicleid=20066338
or
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Dodge/Durango/2006/13297.html?vehicleid=20065543

Wiring:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Dodge/Durango/2006/118390.html?vehicleid=20066338
or
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Dodge/Durango/2006/C55597.html?vehicleid=20066338

Transmission cooler:
One of these. I don't know how to pick to even narrow it down since I can't find anything to tell me what the Class ratings mean.
https://www.etrailer.com/tran-2006_Dodge_Durango.htm?style=3.7L+V6+Engine+-+225+c.i.&furl=-sf-Plate~Fin_Cooler

 

[jlee]

Hitches are incredibly easy to install. They have a bunch of large bolts that go through the frame. If you have no missing parts when you're done and you torque everything properly (buy a $15 torque wrench at Harbor Freight if you want to be sure), it'll be fine.

 

[Fardringle]

The hitch itself is fairly easy, but I don't like messing with wiring..

I talked to the U-Haul shop down the street from me and they said they'll do the hitch, the wiring (plus a 4-way to 7-way adapter and the extra wiring), ball mount, ball, and a 2 year guarantee on it for just over $400 including tax and labor costs so I might go ahead and do that just so I don't have to do the wiring myself.

I would still need to buy and install a transmission cooler since U-Haul doesn't do that part, but playing with hoses doesn't make me irrationally nervous like wiring does and even after adding the cost of the cooler and the time to install it, I'm getting all of the main parts and all of the extra bits that I need for a lot less than just the basic installation of the tow bar and 4-way wiring from the dealer.

Edit: The mechanic at the local U-Haul shop just called me back and said that he'll do everything (tow bar, ball mount and ball, 4-way wiring, 7-way adapter, and the transmission cooler) for about $495 total. That makes it an easy decision.

Thanks again for all the help. You definitely helped me figure out what I actually need.

 

[Meghan54]

About the class ratings you asked about....in hitches, they're the weight rating the particular hitch can tow.

Class I hitches are weight carrying hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight with a 200 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight.

Class II hitches are weight carrying rated up to 3500 lbs. gross trailer weight with a 300 lbs. maximum tongue weight. Class I and II hitches usually have a 1-1/4" square receiver opening.

Class III hitches can be used as both weight carrying and weight distributing hitches. As a weight carrying hitch, it's rated for 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight and a 600 lbs. maximum tongue weight. (It's 10,000 lbs. trailer weight and 1,000 lbs. tongue weight when used as a weight distributing platform.....something you're not going to do.)

The coolers were "rated" to correspond to the hitch capacities to give an idea of what size cooler to purchase.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

Forget uhaul and the dealer, go to a trailer shop and they will install a hitch and the wiring for half the price. Larger trailer stores, that build trailers, can also size and install a transmission cooler for much less.

 

[Fardringle]

I actually called a trailer supply store that is not far away and their quote wasn't much less than the Dodge dealer, unfortunately.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

I actually called a trailer supply store that is not far away and their quote wasn't much less than the Dodge dealer, unfortunately.

You do have to check around. The only thing you know for sure is that the dealer will be the most expensive.

 

[Fardringle]

I'm sure I missed some options but I have tried to be thorough. The only reason I was considering the dealer at first is because their price wasn't much different than the trailer supply place, and the dealer would be using OEM parts..

I really could save some money doing the installation myself, but I just don't want to, and U-Haul's price for everything including the labor and a 2 year warranty on the parts/labor is good enough for me.

 

[mizzou]

no shame in not doing it yourself.

You would be shocked how easy it is tho


Im in a similar boat. Let us know what camper you buy!