Best options for drop ceiling insulation?

[bctbct]

I know your excited about this project but calm down and quit trying to make this harder than it is.

Measure the size of area you want to soundproof. Buy that amount of sq footage of R-11 or R-19. Personally I would get R-11 becuase of the cost and I think it would do what you need. It is also easier to install in a tight place.

Purchase in 2x4 pcs if cost effective because that will be the easiest to install.

Starting on one end of the room start laying the insulation on top of the ceiling tile removing only the ones you need too, again to make this easiest as possible.

You may want to use a pc. of tape to mark the tile near pipe locations for later IF NEEDED. Chances are this is going to make such a difference you will be satisfied.

If you need to insulate the pipes, I suppose the black flex insulation would do. Forget the expanding foam that stuff messy and expensive.

Believe me you want to simplfy this process you are going to itch for a week and then the following week you are going to think you are still itching.

Wear a long sleeve shirt, put baby power on your exposed skin, wear a mask if you are a health nut, take a cold shower when you are done( closed pores keeps the fiberglass out)

If money is no object use the R-19. Good luck and post back the results

edited to add, you will lose a lot of sound proofing thru HVAC ductwork, so trying to soundproof this area is impossible, so you do the best you can, live with the rest.

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: JinLien

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

What do you mean by " bigger white plastic water pipes"?

There isn't much you can do except for replacing the Wirsbo or brass fittings if you have white translucent water tubing. Try adjusting (turn down) the pressure balancing screw in you shower/sink faucet if you have high pressure water problem.

Solid white PVC piping isn't normally use for indoor potable water system, and there shouldn't be much water noise if PVC is use.

There are all different sizes of round foam insulation that are aviable.

Well, I don't know how else to describe them. They are larger PVC water pipes and they DO make a lot of noise, and I don't feel like arguing. So far the only stuff I see as affordable are R-19 insulation for right now?

bctbct, thanks for simplifying this for me. lol I was going a little crazy with this whole project.

Does Home Depot sell R-11 insulation?

 

[bctbct]

Probably, you might have a hard time finding unfaced though without going to a lumber yard or drywall supply business.

 

[rahvin]

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

I don't believe there is nothing but the floor boards. Do you want to know why? Because there HAS to be joists to support the floor. Those joists aren't a solid thick layer, they are going to be at LEAST 2x6's (doubtful 2x6's would even be cost effective) and probably 2x8 or 2x12's (or manufactured I's) with anywhere from 6" to 24" spacings. Between those floor joists is where you want to staple insulation. And don't think for a minute any of this is going to be cheap, insulation batting isn't a walk in the park although it is going to be the relative cheapest.

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: rahvin

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

I don't believe there is nothing but the floor boards. Do you want to know why? Because there HAS to be joists to support the floor. Those joists aren't a solid thick layer, they are going to be at LEAST 2x6's (doubtful 2x6's would even be cost effective) and probably 2x8 or 2x12's (or manufactured I's) with anywhere from 6" to 24" spacings. Between those floor joists is where you want to staple insulation. And don't think for a minute any of this is going to be cheap, insulation batting isn't a walk in the park although it is going to be the relative cheapest.

Thanks for taking what I say literally. I know there are floor support boards, but what I meant was that is it. Nothing more except the floor and its SUPPORTS.

Is there a huge difference between faced and unfaced insulation?

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: ScottFern

Originally posted by: rahvin

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

I don't believe there is nothing but the floor boards. Do you want to know why? Because there HAS to be joists to support the floor. Those joists aren't a solid thick layer, they are going to be at LEAST 2x6's (doubtful 2x6's would even be cost effective) and probably 2x8 or 2x12's (or manufactured I's) with anywhere from 6" to 24" spacings. Between those floor joists is where you want to staple insulation. And don't think for a minute any of this is going to be cheap, insulation batting isn't a walk in the park although it is going to be the relative cheapest.

Thanks for taking what I say literally. I know there are floor support boards, but what I meant was that is it. Nothing more except the floor and its SUPPORTS.

Is there a huge difference between faced and unfaced insulation?

I'm not sure about price different between faced & unfaced insulation, faced backing is design for external wall usage because the backing is moisture resistant unfaced let the insulation breath.

Home Depot carry both faced & unfaced insulation here in Western Canada.

I wasn't trying to argue....was trying to help, I wanted to know the exact type of tubing use because it would give people here a better view to give you more percise helps.

It could be that the PVC tubings/joints/fittings are over cemented during installation therefore the constricted water pathway speed up and create noise.

Locate the noisiest part of the PVC tubing and cut it out with a hacksaw/plastic tubing cutter, and saw the joints/fittings in half to see if constricted pathway is the culprit, and replace where it is necessary.