Best options for drop ceiling insulation?

[ScottFern]

I just moved into a newer townhouse with my mother, and I live in the basement. The ceiling in the basement is a drop ceiling, and there is nothing between the floor boards and the drop ceiling and it is driving us both nuts. I can hear every step she takes in the morning and she can hear my music and dvds perfectly clear through the floor.

Now my question is: What are the BEST possible solutions to deaden the sound? My uncle recommended R-19 insulation, and acoustic ceiling tiles??? Any other suggestions?

I can also hear the water run as well when someone either takes a shower or goes to the bathroom. My uncle also suggested I can wrap the pipes in insulation as well? Is this the best option? I am looking for the best possible way to stop the sound AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

All input greatly appreciated!!!

 

[MX2]

PM redgtxdi. He did one a few months ago. I am sure he would have some recommendations for you

 

[bctbct]

drop ceiling= grid? Does it have tile now?

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: bctbct
drop ceiling= grid? Does it have tile now?

Yes, its a completely finished ceiling with tiles........it just has nothing in the space between the floor and the tiles.....

What about that spray stuff? Doe that work well?

 

[bctbct]

Your best option would be an unfaced R-19 in 2'x4'pcs. for easier insulation. Check that you actually have 6" of space above the grid.

If you had not installed the tile I would have rec. the insulation and sheetrock tile panels.

 

[QurazyQuisp]

If you are going to take tiles down to put insulation up, make sure to label them... it's a pain if you don't.

 

[MX2]

Originally posted by: ScottFern

What about that spray stuff? Doe that work well?

Seems regular insulation would be best.That spray stuff is messy and difficult to remove should that become necessary isnt it?

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: bctbct
Your best option would be an unfaced R-19 in 2'x4'pcs. for easier insulation. Check that you actually have 6" of space above the grid.

If you had not installed the tile I would have rec. the insulation and sheetrock tile panels.

I am considering acoustic tiles, but my uncle said they run $4 a tile!!

What about the spray stuff? Whats best for water pipes to deaden the sound?

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: ScottFern

Originally posted by: bctbct
Your best option would be an unfaced R-19 in 2'x4'pcs. for easier insulation. Check that you actually have 6" of space above the grid.

If you had not installed the tile I would have rec. the insulation and sheetrock tile panels.

I am considering acoustic tiles, but my uncle said they run $4 a tile!!

What about the spray stuff? Whats best for water pipes to deaden the sound?

I have installed a few tile that cost $40 a pc. $4 is about norm for a 2X2 of any quality. As someone else mentioned, do not remove the border tiles as it will be confusing what came from where. What type of tile does it have? Not sure if wrapping the pipe would do any good or not. The R-19 should absorb the majority of the sound.

 

[ScottFern]

So I take it the spray stuff is no good? No one has reallye mentioned it. lol

 

[Ornery]

my uncle said they run $4 a tile!!

Fifty cents per square foot is chicken feed. It's going to have significant cost no matter what. I kind of doubt it will ever be satisfactory, though.

 

[JinLien]

Rushing/whistling (high pressure sound), insulate the copper tubing with tubing foam insulator might help, or replace copper tubing with PEX tubing.

Thunking noise (water hammer), install water hammer arrestor & tighten down tubing with straps, or replace with PEX tubing.

Tightening floor boards with screws at creaking points from underneath up can stop creaking floor boards.

Install R11/13 or greater (the higher STC the better) between the floor & drop ceiling to deafen the sound transfer.

I recently intalled insulation at my home that rated at 45 STC between floors and drywall and I barely hear between floor when music is crank. Try for 55 STC if you like loud music.

STC CHART

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: JinLien
Rushing/whistling (high pressure sound), insulate the copper tubing with tubing foam insulator might help, or replace copper tubing with PEX tubing.

Thunking noise (water hammer), install water hammer arrestor & tighten down tubing with straps, or replace with PEX tubing.

Tightening floor boards with screws at creaking points from underneath up can stop creaking floor boards.

Install R11/13 or greater (the higher STC the better) between the floor & drop ceiling to deafen the sound transfer.

I recently intalled insulation at my home that rated at 45 STC between floors and drywall and I barely hear between floor when music is crank. Try for 55 STC if you like loud music.

STC CHART

Is STC 55 rated higher than R-19 insulation? That is what was originally recommended to me from a family member. But what I am asking is, is there a higher rated insulation above R-19 (STC 55????) that is better for stopping the sound?

 

[skyking]

the stc chart relates to noise, not thermal isolation.
Take a look at the brick veneer line, it tells the story there.

"No Insulation 53

With Insulation 55"


In other words, don't expect much gain from adding fiberglass insulation. It is really apples and oranges.

You'll need to apply accoustic solutions to your problem, not thermal ones. The tiles are good, but the single biggest fix is also nearly impossible for you to do.

In our new office construction, they installed a metal z strip on the joists, and screwed the sheetrock to that. This disconnects the sheetrock from direct contact with the floor above, and works wonders. That and acoustic tiles, and we only hear it when we crank the massive home theater setup in the training room above

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: skyking
the stc chart relates to noise, not thermal isolation.
Take a look at the brick veneer line, it tells the story there.

"No Insulation 53

With Insulation 55"


In other words, don't expect much gain from adding fiberglass insulation. It is really apples and oranges.

You'll need to apply accoustic solutions to your problem, not thermal ones. The tiles are good, but the single biggest fix is also nearly impossible for you to do.

In our new office construction, they installed a metal z strip on the joists, and screwed the sheetrock to that. This disconnects the sheetrock from direct contact with the floor above, and works wonders. That and acoustic tiles, and we only hear it when we crank the massive home theater setup in the training room above

Insulation will do more to block sound transmission than anything else in this application.

 

[skyking]

Did you read those numbers on the chart? A change of 53 to 55. I just don't want the OP to expect a huge change, because it is not to be had with insulation alone.

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: skyking
Did you read those numbers on the chart? A change of 53 to 55. I just don't want the OP to expect a huge change, because it is not to be had with insulation alone.

OP is not insulating a brick ceiling.

 

[skyking]

Originally posted by: bctbct

Originally posted by: skyking
Did you read those numbers on the chart? A change of 53 to 55. I just don't want the OP to expect a huge change, because it is not to be had with insulation alone.

OP is not insulating a brick ceiling.

No kidding.:roll:
A disconnect is the best possible solution, and that is what an acoustic tile provides. Insulation by itelf is a poor second to that.

 

[Fiat1]

This is what you need. It works great they use it between walls in hotels.

 

[bctbct]

Accoustical ceiling separate sound transmission caused by vibration by hanging from a wire rather than a direct attachment. The same thing z-furring or resilient channel does.

Accoustical tile blocks sound transmission from the exposed side using holes and or rough surface to absorb the sound. He is trying to block sound from the back of the tile.

Architects and engineers use only three methods for sound effciency in accoustical ceiling applications that I am aware of for standardinstallations.

NRC value of the tile
Applying sound sealant at perimeter edges
Installing R-11 unfaced sound batt above ceiling

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: Fiat1
This is what you need. It works great they use it between walls in hotels.

overkill, expensive as hell, and your unborn kids would itch from the beating that stuff puts on you

 

[ScottFern]

Originally posted by: bctbct

Originally posted by: Fiat1
This is what you need. It works great they use it between walls in hotels.

overkill, expensive as hell, and your unborn kids would itch from the beating that stuff puts on you

I have to agree with you there.....I am considering using that acoustic sealer in the corner of the room, using some grade of insulation (R-19??), and what about spraying the floor boards on my basement side with a spray insulation?

Thanks for the suggestion Fiat1, looks to be exactly what I would need, but I can NOT afford that unfortunately!!

 

[Evadman]

For everyone's information, fiberglass insulation along with everything else is rated in R's. The more r's the thicker the batt. For instance, R13 = 2x4 wall, R19 = 2x6. If you take R16 and put it into the space of a 2x4 it will perform roughly as well as R-6 or so because youa re compressing the batt. The air is what insulates, not the fiberglass.

Fiberglass insualtion is a good sound insulator as well, so youc an use it for sound deadening. hwoever when it is used on an interior wall, you must get unfaced insulatorn (no kraft paper on it). If you get faced insulaton on an interior it can collect moisture, which can cause mold. (fiber now has mold inhibitors added too, but don't depend on it)

If it is a floor, you should be able to go with r-30 without issue, but r13 will make a HUGE differene, and you can always add more.

 

[ScottFern]

I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I guess I am having a hard time describing the ceiling. I am in the basement and the ceiling is a drop ceiling with nothing between the tiles except the floor boards (which is the main floor of the house). Let me say again, all that is between the ceiling tiles and main floor is just the floor boards....nothing else.

Now I have another question.....Our water piping runs through the basement and do they make circular insulation for the bigger white plastic water pipes?

I plan on going to Home Depot this week and I want to know what is the best insualtion for between the the floor boards, and yes I plan on the insualtion alone making a huge impact.

What do you mean by " bigger white plastic water pipes"?

There isn't much you can do except for replacing the Wirsbo or brass fittings if you have white translucent water tubing. Try adjusting (turn down) the pressure balancing screw in you shower/sink faucet if you have high pressure water problem.

Solid white PVC piping isn't normally use for indoor potable water system, and there shouldn't be much water noise if PVC is use.

There are all different sizes of round foam insulation that are aviable.