With any LCD what is the best way to test input lag?
I got a 206BW at Frys today and sorta happy, I was expecting it to be a little nicer. Not sure if I am going to trade it in for a 226BW or not.
I'm using Nvidia control panel to clone the desktop onto a crt, LCD is running at its native resolution.
Here is some random VA702b (8ms screen) vs a CRT (GG 15" that cannot produce the color green anymore).
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/1974/img0661sfb5.jpg
The CRT almost always (maybe 1 out of 30 shots I took) shows only one time stamp very clearly. I think this proves that my camera is 'good enough'. Doesn't have a 1/1000 shutter speed but whatever.
In the picture above I'd say the LCD is 1 frame behind, the current time is barely visiable and the strongest time showing up is the previous time stamp. After a bunch of shots about half the time the LCD is on time and half the time it is 1 frame behind. In all shots there is about 2 previous time stamps still visiable. You can actually make our 4 time stamps but the top one in this pic is so light I say its only 3.
Anyways so this is how I've been testing.
I went out at lunch today to get a 206BW at Frys $249-$30MIR.
Straight out of the box doing the same test procedure the 206BW is almost always 1 frame behind. I'd estimate 80% of the time it is 1 frame behind, 20% of the time it is on time. The ghosting however is waaay better, 90% of the time I can only read one timestamp and the other 10% of the time there will be one old dim timestamp.
This is with overdrive on.
Turning this off almost every shot I get 3 timestamps on the screen... the current time is almost always there but sorta dim, the previous timestamp is very bright, and two time stamps ago is very very dim.
Less delay but more blur.
I have 30 days to trade in and get a 226BW, $50 more. Not sure if I should. I don't think the 226BW will be any better or worse, these results I'm getting is what I would have expected from the 226BW. I was thinking the 206BW was going to be slightly faster.