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Ball joints

TehMac

TehMac

Diamond Member
So it looks like Imma need new ball joints for the IFS for 99 stang.

The shop I got a quote from is charging me 243.99 for two ball joints, but a quick google/look at Steeda's site shows I could get two ball joints for 139.99 and what looks to be more performance goodiness as well. If I show up with my own parts, I'll likely be able to get labor costs down as well.

Will the stang gods (exdeath, Ronstang, and those my impiety leads me to forget) lend their ears to my plight?
 
Oh, well usually me assuming it would be as simple to show up with the Steeda parts usually leads me to being corrected.

I'll break it down.

1) Steeda ships me what looks like two lower Ball joints, which is exactly what I need.

The cost is 140 bucks + tax & shipping, which is still considerably lower than what the shop would charge for stock (and presumably worse) ball joints, never mind the labor.

2) Is this as good as it seems or am I missing something?
 
the shop is asking for $244 for 2 ball joints installed ( parts and labor ) is this correct?

You found parts online for $140-150. So now you have to pay for labor, which could be more or less then. If your mustang ball joint is mainly 3 bolts on the arm and 1 top nut, it could be cheap to install.

Some shops will accept parts you bring in but not warranty it. IE your ball joint breaks, now you have to pay for labor again VS you buy their balljoint and it breaks, you wouldn;t pay for anything.


All in all if that $244 is with parts installed, i would go that route.

*just googled parts* looks like its a press on job.
 
The ball joints are about $60 a piece from O'Reilly's. I would not count on the ones from Steeda being anything much different than Motorcraft OEM replacement ball joints which are $68 at O'Reilly's. You can check the Ford Performance Parts catalog to see if there is any kind of new and improved ball joint for your car. If they have one I can almost guarantee that is the one Steeda sells. The parts choice is up to you but the $60 Moog ball joint from O'Reilly's is going to be fine. Moog makes the best suspension replacement parts.

The labor is up to you. If you don't have the knowledge that is one thing but a lower ball joint is easy to replace and you can rent the tool to press out the old one and press in the new one from O'Reilly's. If you have to pay for labor I would shop around some different places telling them up front you have some special ball joints you have that you want installed. Paying for labor these days you are going to get raped. It is a basic fact. Rates are high and most places have under skilled and under experienced mechanics in my opinion.
 
If I could piggyback on this thread....would you go ahead and do the control arm bushings while you are in there? Part of me says leave well enough alone and part of me says just redo everything while I'm in there.
 
I would easily go Moog over the other stuff.

If one was to press the ball joint while on the car then a control arm bushing is more work. Because now ur taking the whole arm, but if needed I would do both at one time.
 
twinrider1 said:
If I could piggyback on this thread....would you go ahead and do the control arm bushings while you are in there? Part of me says leave well enough alone and part of me says just redo everything while I'm in there.
Click to expand...

lord knows I would strip the whole car down and put in a new engine while I am at it, but I don't have the resources for that right now.

I'm assuming these are the joints you are referring to.
 
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I was offered a discount on labor for installing the ball joints, but Steeda sells theirs cheapest for 260 bucks, which is a lot.

However, lethalPerformance has theirs listed at 189. Anyone done business with online vendors they like?
 
What's wrong with the Motorsport OEM ball joints at $68?

The ball joint is hardly where you want to start spending money first.
 
Moog or Motorcraft OEM. They are press fit.

The Steeda ones are usually purchased for taller ball joint studs to restore control arm geometry after lowering. You do not want to use those with stock ride height. Not necessary to spend excess money on aftermarket ball joints unless you have a severe drop or aftermarket control arms.

The numbers you have indicates an hour of labor to remove two tires, sway bar, control arms, remove the old ball joints, press in the new ones, and reinstall everything. Seems perfectly reasonable assuming they are using dealer parts and not profitting the difference using $20 Chinese parts.
 
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Thanks exdeath, I had a feeling a lot of this aftermarket stuff was for more ride adjustment related goodies.

It was strenuously recommended to me that I at least replace the ball joints otherwise the tires are at risk of being more worn down. It was also recommended I put in new struts and shocks.

I gradually replace parts on my car, I don't do everything all at once--at least not yet.
 
BUTCH1 said:
Yea, I don't think Alky understands the importance of the ball joint..
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lol...do you understand the difference between what the $30 and $300 one buys you on a car that is otherwise stock?

Buy the $30 ball joints and a nice set of street pads for $80-150 or invest in some stickier tires.
 
alkemyst said:
lol...do you understand the difference between what the $30 and $300 one buys you on a car that is otherwise stock?

Buy the $30 ball joints and a nice set of street pads for $80-150 or invest in some stickier tires.
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Yea, buys you almost nothing performance-wise on a 12 yr old car but your comment "The ball joint is hardly where you want to start spending money first" is kinda misleading, if they are shot get 'em changed out first, just avoid the waste of $$ that a premium part will cost..
 
BUTCH1 said:
Yea, buys you almost nothing performance-wise on a 12 yr old car but your comment "The ball joint is hardly where you want to start spending money first" is kinda misleading, if they are shot get 'em changed out first, just avoid the waste of $$ that a premium part will cost..
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Well I think you were the only one that didn't understand, but yes that is correct.
 
exdeath summed it up best: the Steeda variety are for adjustable suspensions. While my suspension isn't stock, it isn't adjustable. I am going with the Moogs, and later will likely be going for new struts and shocks.
 
TehMac said:
exdeath summed it up best: the Steeda variety are for adjustable suspensions. While my suspension isn't stock, it isn't adjustable. I am going with the Moogs, and later will likely be going for new struts and shocks.
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Doesn't have anything to do with bring adjustable, it has to do with ride height (spring height) and control arm angle and roll center.

Even with adjustable suspension, you'll still need a correct fixed height spring for your target ride height (otherwise too long = binding, too short = losing contact with the perches) and proper spindle to ball joint distance to keep the control arms from being angled upward (this is were taller ball joints come in).
 
Although I am confident that there are "only" lower front ball joints, I was curious if anyone can explain to me why the ball-joints are described as "Front, Lower" like here

Is it a generation thing? Like how the '60's stangs have 'Front, Upper' Ball joints?
 
TehMac said:
Although I am confident that there are "only" lower front ball joints, I was curious if anyone can explain to me why the ball-joints are described as "Front, Lower" like here

Is it a generation thing? Like how the '60's stangs have 'Front, Upper' Ball joints?
Click to expand...

Maybe some suspensions have rear ball joints so they always specify front/rear even though the majority of cars only have front. Just a guess..
 
TehMac said:
Although I am confident that there are "only" lower front ball joints, I was curious if anyone can explain to me why the ball-joints are described as "Front, Lower" like here

Is it a generation thing? Like how the '60's stangs have 'Front, Upper' Ball joints?
Click to expand...

Just consistency in naming. Some cars (Mustang II, etc) have double wishbone front suspension with an upper and lower control arms with upper and lower ball joints.
 
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