Bah! Neither Autozone nor Advance Auto Parts has defogger kit...

[Krish]

Man, I live in WV, so you'd think the autoparts stores would have everything. I've tried autozone, advance, and even walmart and no one has this stuff....anyone know of any other place where I can get a rear window defogger kit...

 

[compman]

Is this the right forum? Any way, JC Whitney has everything. I don't know if they have internet sales yet, but you could probably just call them up and order it.

 

[Krish]

JC Whitney? Never heard of them. I'll search for 'em...

Defogger kits are used for unlocking L1 brides on durons, so yes, this is the right forum. 🙂

 

[Krish]

Thanks for the recommendation...found the defroster kit here...it's a little expensive, though, $9.99 + shipping. I'll definitely get this if penciling fails.

 

[Outlaw]

its actually a rear defogger "repair kit"

this is what has the metal based paint you are looking for

 

[York1]

Or you could try a good ole Napa Store

 

[Krish]

york, did you get yours at napa?

 

[RoadRuner]

pep boys?

 

[Enigma]

Picked mine up at AuoZone and I saw it at Pepboys as well, toothpick works best.

 

[DaddyG]

Krish, every Autozone that I've been to has the kit. Its made by Loctite, see if the store will order it. Its $6.99 I think.

 

[Krish]

DG, do you know the full name of the kit, or is it just called Loctite rear window defroster repair kit?

 

[Fumiup]

I went to auto zone and got a Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit by Permatex. It comes with a nice little tiny paint bottle with a screw on cap. Cost me $6.99. It was near all the other Permatex gooey stuff. They had one by Loctite also but it didn't come in a nice little bottle.

Permatex item # 15067

 

[DaddyG]

I think both kits are made by Loctite (maybe Permatex and Loctite are the same) but the 15067 is the one that I use. The brush is pretty much useless, you can cut down the hairs but a toothpick with the end slightly 'mashed' does a good job. Just be ready to work fast, the suff dries in a heatbeat.

 

[MikeHelvey]

How hard is it to get the paint on correctly? I tried the pincel trick, and it was a pain in the butt to keep from crossing the pins. (poor eyesight). I also had other stability problems afterwords, but later discovered the problem in my bios memory settings. That was after removing all the graphite. Hmmm, if I try it again, is it worth the effort for the paint?

Mike Helvey

 

[DaddyG]

MikeH,

It's not easy, especially with bad eyes. A magnifier and a wrist rest help. If you have access to a ohm meter to check the connections and to make sure that you haven't accidently connected the bridges together , its a plus. If you mess up, acetone should remove the stuff and try again.

 

[JonB]

DaddyG, keep that Ohmmeter away from those pins!!!! It generally uses a high enough voltage (5 or more volts) that it could do major damage across the wrong contacts.

 

[MikeHelvey]

I thought that when a multimeter was in the Ohm mode, it did not put any current across the contacts. Well, now that I think about it I guess it would have to--in order to check the resistance. (OK, I'm an air traffic controller, not an engineer!)

Thanks for the advice. Will acetone not hurt the core or materials on the chip?

Mike

 

[DaddyG]

JonB,

All the OHM meter is reading is an Open Circuit, bridge blown or a Closed Circuit, bridge connected. A Digital VM will not cause any probs, been using em for years. How do you think that John Carr found out that the bridges were connected to the so called 'Unused Pins' actually the BP-FID, he used an Ohm meter.

Obviously you must use the Acetone sparingly, on the end of a q-tip. Keep it away from the core and the resistors.