ATOT home improvement Gurus:

[olds]

I'll take a stab at your problem. If all three outlets are in series on the same breaker then a wire in the one outlet that works is disconnected. Turn off the breaker to the good outlet, remove the cover, pull the outlet out and search inside the box for a wire that isn't connected to anything. There may even be two wires not connected to anything. That's the problem.

This and

 

[rudeguy]

This and

All the wires are connected. If I buy one of those lil guys and report back with the results, do you think we can narrow it down?

 

[runzwithsizorz]

^^ in a word YES! ^^

 

[olds]

All the wires are connected. If I buy one of those lil guys and report back with the results, do you think we can narrow it down?

I didn't read all the replies.
You need to check the outlets on either side on the non working outlets too. There may be a loose wire feeding the ones that don't work. Also, make sure that one of the outlets isn't controlled by a switch.
Have the outlets ever worked?

 

[rudeguy]

I didn't read all the replies.
You need to check the outlets on either side on the non working outlets too. There may be a loose wire feeding the ones that don't work. Also, make sure that one of the outlets isn't controlled by a switch.
Have the outlets ever worked?

I have checked all outlets in that room. I didn't think to move down the circuit.

I can't find a switch but I know that doesn't mean there isn't one in the neighbor's garage or something.

Not since I have lived here. My roomie used that room as has office, so he only ever used the one outlet.

 

[runzwithsizorz]

While your at it, change the wires from the push-ins, to the screw downs.
http://electrical.about.com/od/electricaldevices/a/pushinterminals.htm

 

[sdifox]

why troubleshoot? Just replace the sockets.


I lost power on a wall. Literally no sockets on that wall were working, not even the outside light.

I replaced all the sockets without result. I gave up.

Then we renoed the bathroom and we took out the hot tub. The contractor shows me the HCFI socket buried within the platform for the hottub, reset it and all sockets work again...

<facepalm>

 

[IHateMyJob2004]

Thats what I was thinking. I have only done new home wiring and have zero experience trouble shooting existing.

I bought one of those circuit testers and all the outlets lit up. I was going to start with the first "bad" outlet but you think I should start with the first?

Ya, if it is older wiring, the heating cooling cycles can fatique the wire at a pinch point (screw) and over time it will simply break. This is why you should not overtighted screws holding wires.

 

[olds]

I'd double check the breakers just to be sure.

 

[runzwithsizorz]

I have checked all outlets in that room. I didn't think to move down the circuit.

I can't find a switch but I know that doesn't mean there isn't one in the neighbor's garage or something. 😱 😕 D:
well now, all you need is an intercom to your neighbor, and wouldn't it be neat if his name was Scotty.

Not since I have lived here. My roomie used that room as has office, so he only ever used the one outlet.

"One outlet" ? If I turn on everything in my office, I can take out the grid.

 

[olds]

I have checked all outlets in that room. I didn't think to move down the circuit.

I can't find a switch but I know that doesn't mean there isn't one in the neighbor's garage or something.

Not since I have lived here. My roomie used that room as has office, so he only ever used the one outlet.

Most bedrooms I've seen have a switched outlet so when you go into the room you can flip on a switch and turn on a lamp.

 

[NL5]

I have checked all outlets in that room. I didn't think to move down the circuit.

I can't find a switch but I know that doesn't mean there isn't one in the neighbor's garage or something.

Not since I have lived here. My roomie used that room as has office, so he only ever used the one outlet.

Outlets are in parallel. One should not affect the others, unless it's on a GFCI.

Let us know what he plug in tester says. A lot of the advice being given is absolutely pointless. There is power at the recep, unless you don't know how to run a tic tracer, which I highly doubt.

 

[rudeguy]

Most bedrooms I've seen have a switched outlet so when you go into the room you can flip on a switch and turn on a lamp.

it has that for one outlet. The other 2 are just plain regular outlets.

I just got back from picking up one of those testers. Plugged it into the first outlet and it had 2 yellow lights (correct). OK...plugged in a lamp and it was good. Tried the 2nd outlet that is buried behind a HUGE desk and it too came up correct and worked when I plugged the lamp in.

So....either its on a switch in the neighbor's garage, I am nuts, replacing the outlets worked last year or its intermittent. The last option scares me the most.

 

[NL5]

So....either its on a switch in the neighbor's garage, I am nuts, replacing the outlets worked last year or its intermittent. The last option scares me the most.

When it wasn't working, the tic tracer showed power, right? If so, it's not a switch issue, unless someone wired it wrong. Switches, by code, cannot be in the neutral.

 

[olds]

it has that for one outlet. The other 2 are just plain regular outlets.

I just got back from picking up one of those testers. Plugged it into the first outlet and it had 2 yellow lights (correct). OK...plugged in a lamp and it was good. Tried the 2nd outlet that is buried behind a HUGE desk and it too came up correct and worked when I plugged the lamp in.

So....either its on a switch in the neighbor's garage, I am nuts, replacing the outlets worked last year or its intermittent. The last option scares me the most.

Wiggle the tester while it's in the socket and see if it flashes.

 

[rudeguy]

Wiggle the tester while it's in the socket and see if it flashes.

I'll do that if it ever messes up again. For right now, I'm going to run with it until it breaks again. Then if the roomie wants to mess with it he can, otherwise I'll get a pro. I'm scurred of burning down the house if I mess up.

 

[rudeguy]

Oh...and thanks for all the help guys. lil rudeguy appreciates it!

 

[NL5]

I'll do that if it ever messes up again. For right now, I'm going to run with it until it breaks again. Then if the roomie wants to mess with it he can, otherwise I'll get a pro. I'm scurred of burning down the house if I mess up.

Hey - just a heads up. If it is a loose neutral, you don't want to "just leave it". A loose connection is the first place the wire will overheat, and possibly start a fire. I'd bet it would be a pretty short call for a pro to come out and fix the problem. Just my humble opinion.

 

[rudeguy]

Hey - just a heads up. If it is a loose neutral, you don't want to "just leave it". A loose connection is the first place the wire will overheat, and possibly start a fire. I'd bet it would be a pretty short call for a pro to come out and fix the problem. Just my humble opinion.

I know all the wires in that room are very tight. IIRC, I opted for the screw terminals since that is what I'm familiar with. If there is a loose wire, its somewhere down the line. Which according to a post above, shouldn't happen.

So...yeah. It works, I can clean up the extension cord in lil rudeguy's room and I am going to close this case.

 

[iGas]

I wouldn't be bothered with the tester because it take more time to get to the store and buy it than fixing the damned thing.

It is likely that one of the leg on the series is broken or loose between [box 1] and [box 2], box 1 is the first receptacle on the series that get power. Open the face plate of box 1 and box 2 and tighten the the terminal screws and plug a light in to see if it work. Replace the receptacle if there is visual damage/burn marks on the receptacle, and may need to strip the wire back to fresh copper or add a new pigtail.

Power Off at panel before commencing the work.

==========[box 1]==========[box 2]==========[box 3]

[edit]
I didn't read all posts, but it seems that you have 2 receptacles on a series, and the other is on another line with the room switch.

The theory above still stay true, that the loose or broken leg is between box 1 & box 2.

 

[olds]

I wouldn't be bothered with the tester because it take more time to get to the store and buy it than fixing the damned thing.

It is likely that one of the leg on the series is broken or loose between [box 1] and [box 2], box 1 is the first receptacle on the series that get power. Open the face plate of box 1 and box 2 and tighten the the terminal screws and plug a light in to see if it work. Replace the receptacle if there is visual damage/burn marks on the receptacle, and may need to strip the wire back to fresh copper or add a new pigtail.

Power Off at panel before commencing the work.

==========[box 1]==========[box 2]==========[box 3]

[edit]
I didn't read all posts, but it seems that you have 2 receptacles on a series, and the other is on another line with the room switch.

The theory above still stay true, that the loose or broken leg is between box 1 & box 2.

What are you talking about, didn't you see this?

Outlets are in parallel. One should not affect the others, unless it's on a GFCI.

Let us know what he plug in tester says. A lot of the advice being given is absolutely pointless. There is power at the recep, unless you don't know how to run a tic tracer, which I highly doubt.

 

[iGas]

What are you talking about, didn't you see this?

My bad at saying it. They are in parallel, but they are string together in a series fashion. That mean a break on the first would affect the rest on the string.

If it truly in series fashion you have to divide the voltage by the devices.

PS. Check & tighten the nuts if they are use in between the receptacles.

 

[olds]

My bad at saying it. They are in parallel, but they are string together in a series fashion. That mean a break on the first would affect the rest on the string.

If it truly in series fashion you have to divide the voltage by the devices.

PS. Check & tighten the nuts if they are use in between the receptacles.

Turn on your sarcasm meter... 😉

 

[rudeguy]

So yesterday the outlet tester read 2 yellow lights meaning all good.
Today when I go to clean up, it reads "hot/ground reversed"

WTF is going on???


Please, please help. This is driving me nuts

 

[iGas]

So yesterday the outlet tester read 2 yellow lights meaning all good.
Today when I go to clean up, it reads "hot/ground reversed"

WTF is going on???


Please, please help. This is driving me nuts

It is not hard to take the face plate off and pull the receptacle out to take a look.

Hot = black insulation = slightly darker colour screw than neutral = may have + or H marking near by
Neutral = white insulation = slightly lighter colour screw than hot = may have - or N near by
Ground = bare copper = green screw

Call in a professional if the above is beyond your skill level.