ATOT handymen roofer help/advice needed

[dfuze]

I need some advice from the local ATOT handymen who know roofing. Recent ice storms and their resulting damage of the interior of my home have lead me to repair/replace the shingles on the rear dormer of my home.

I've got some basic roofing exp before when I redid my carport a couple years ago, but that was easy as it had only a slight slope. The dormer repair is different as the home is a cape and the roof is steep (at least for me). What is a safe way for someone to access the dormer and perform roof repairs on it? I have an aluminum extension ladder which is about 24'.

Pic of area below:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j369/dfuze7/dormer.jpg

 

[Doppel]

I can't help directly, but having gone on my roof before on a couple of houses, there are those with very gentle slopes and those with awful ones. In the case of yours that looks quite steep, I'd pay the hundred bucks or couple hundred to have a professional risk his future mobility on this one to be honest with you. I am handy around the house but after the last time trying I've vowed never to try any roofing again.

 

[Greenman]

Roof jacks are you're friend.
http://www.amazon.com/Qualcraft-250...24N3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327785599&sr=8-1

btw, whoever put that ugly ass dormer on your house should whipped.

 

[Humpy]

...What is a safe way for someone to access the dormer and perform roof repairs on it?

Rent a dumpster also. D:

 

[dfuze]

Roof jacks are you're friend.
http://www.amazon.com/Qualcraft-250...24N3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327785599&sr=8-1

btw, whoever put that ugly ass dormer on your house should whipped.

I was thinking about roof jacks, but thought that would only really be helpful if I was doing the regular roof. How can I use them for the dormer?

As for the dormer, the original builder (1950s) put them on all the capes in the area.

 

[Greenman]

I was thinking about roof jacks, but thought that would only really be helpful if I was doing the regular roof. How can I use them for the dormer?

As for the dormer, the original builder (1950s) put them on all the capes in the area.

You don't need to use them on the dormer, it's a low pitch by the look of it. Just place the roof jacks near it so you have a place to get up and down without falling off the roof. If the dormer it self is too steep to work on, get a restraint harness, about $100.

Working on a steep roof is something you need to really think about. If you're not comfortable doing it, just bite the bullet and pay someone else to do it. The ground is a long way down, if you fall, the very best you can hope for is getting badly hurt. It ain't no fun at all, trust me.

 

[Analog]

what part of that dormer do you need to work on?

 

[SphinxnihpS]

what part of that dormer do you need to work on?

I'm guessing the seam of the roof? If I'm right you will need to strip off the shingles a couple of feet down the dormer, and up to the roof peak, then lay a layer of ice and water shield over the seam with 1.5ft of overlap on each side, then metal flashing, then shingles.

You're having this problem in the first place due to poor insulation.

 

[weadjust]

You need an ladder hook. Look at the images on this amazon link.

http://www.amazon.com/Qualcraft-2481-Ladder-Hook-Wheel/dp/B0000224MR/ref=cm_cmu_pg_

 

[dfuze]

what part of that dormer do you need to work on?

Mostly the overhang, or lack of overhang. From best I can tell, the ice forms at the end and huge icicles then hang over the edge. From my inspection, the shingles do not go past the edge of the dormer like they should (guess it should be around 1/2 to 1" over hang). This has allowed water to back up and go under the shingles on particularly nasty buildups.

 

[dfuze]

You're having this problem in the first place due to poor insulation.

Sadly, I didn't even think of that. I know I added insulation a few years back incorrectly in the crawlspace and thought I corrected it but maybe not. I'll pop back in and take a look and see if it is still wrong.

 

[Darwin333]

I need some advice from the local ATOT handymen who know roofing. Recent ice storms and their resulting damage of the interior of my home have lead me to repair/replace the shingles on the rear dormer of my home.

I've got some basic roofing exp before when I redid my carport a couple years ago, but that was easy as it had only a slight slope. The dormer repair is different as the home is a cape and the roof is steep (at least for me). What is a safe way for someone to access the dormer and perform roof repairs on it? I have an aluminum extension ladder which is about 24'.

Pic of area below:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j369/dfuze7/dormer.jpg

It doesn't look all that steep, appears to be a 6/12 but there is no way for me to be sure from that photo, and if it is in fact a 6/12 or below you *should* be able to walk it.

Most real fall safety devices require you to get to a higher point on your roof to attach your rope before you can tie off but you can use a technique that someone that looks like me, but definitely not me, has used before.

Set your ladder where you intend on getting onto the roof from, preferably as close as possible to the actual work. Get a strong piece of rope that will support at least twice your body weight+whatever you will be carrying. Tie something to the end of it to add weight, climb the ladder and chuck one end of the rope over the entire roof. I assume your driveway is on the other side and someone who definitely isn't me has always used their truck, tie the end of the rope you tossed to the hitch of your truck. Now you have something to hold onto as you walk up the steep portion of the roof onto the less steep area you need to work on.

This is not intended to be a fall arresting device. When you actually fall you will exert much more force on the rope than just your body weight. The rule of thumb I was taught was that when you fall the force you exert on the rope is roughly equal to the weight of your truck so if you wouldn't hang your truck from it don't use it to stop your fall. This is intended to prevent you from falling in the first place.

Wait until all the morning dew or ice or whatever has melted and evaporated.

Don't buy any of the brackets that I saw posted. Those are more for holding material than people. If you are willing to take destructive measures you can simply nail 1Xs every 4' or so to give your feet something to grab. Unfortunately that makes more work for you because you just put a bunch of holes in the undamaged portion of your roof.


I have 15 years experience in commercial roofing with 12 of those being project management and estimating. Feel free to PM me if you need anymore help.

 

[Darwin333]

You don't need to use them on the dormer, it's a low pitch by the look of it. Just place the roof jacks near it so you have a place to get up and down without falling off the roof. If the dormer it self is too steep to work on, get a restraint harness, about $100.

Working on a steep roof is something you need to really think about. If you're not comfortable doing it, just bite the bullet and pay someone else to do it. The ground is a long way down, if you fall, the very best you can hope for is getting badly hurt. It ain't no fun at all, trust me.

The jacks are not necessary at all. They are designed primarily for keeping material, not people, on steep slope roofs. For people all you need is to nail a 1X or 2X directly to the roof and it serves the exact same purpose.

As far as a harness, you still need to get to the high point of the roof unprotected in order to install whatever anchoring device you intend on using. Then you have to actually install it properly for it to work which sounds easy until you know that if you fall you can put 5,000lbs on whatever you installed. He would also need either a rope with a sliding rope grab or a retractable cable which would probably cost more than hiring a roofer to fix it.

 

[skyking]

all that

:thumbsup:

 

[Greenman]

The jacks are not necessary at all. They are designed primarily for keeping material, not people, on steep slope roofs. For people all you need is to nail a 1X or 2X directly to the roof and it serves the exact same purpose.

As far as a harness, you still need to get to the high point of the roof unprotected in order to install whatever anchoring device you intend on using. Then you have to actually install it properly for it to work which sounds easy until you know that if you fall you can put 5,000lbs on whatever you installed. He would also need either a rope with a sliding rope grab or a retractable cable which would probably cost more than hiring a roofer to fix it.

Nailing 2x to the roof would indeed do the exact same thing as roof jacks. But using roof jacks there is no hole to repair when you're done.

A harness will run around a $100, and everything you need is in the kit, anchor, rope, the one way grab and harness.

I have no idea what it will cost him to have it repaired, because I don't know how big of an area it is or what sort of tie in will be required. All I'm doing is trying to tell the fellow how to avoid killing himself. If I were doing the job I'd stand a ladder and place a pair of roof jacks with a plank right at the bottom of the roof. That would give me a place to put material, and a stop just in case I slid down the roof.
My general rule is that anything beyond 5/12 is high risk work, I try to avoid it.

 

[SphinxnihpS]

Sadly, I didn't even think of that. I know I added insulation a few years back incorrectly in the crawlspace and thought I corrected it but maybe not. I'll pop back in and take a look and see if it is still wrong.

It would be the insulation in the dormer that needs fixing. Unfortunately those don't have much room for insulation, just between the drywall and roof deck. If the guy that added it was smart, there would be foam board between the drywall and the rafters in addition to the 6" of insulation between the rafters.

Since you have to add drip edge to three sides of the dormer, I suggest you strip all the singles off of it and put a layer of ice and water shield on top of the entire dormer and up to the peak of your roof. Then put the metal drip edge on (see if you can get extra wide stuff to increase the overhang as much as possible), then #30 felt paper, then shingles. This way ice will have a hard time getting to the wood.

If you have heavy damage inside you may even need to re-deck the dormer, which would give you a chance to extend the overhang even further, but then you'd need metal wrapping tools.

I'd hire someone bud. You have quite a project on your hands to fix correctly and safely. I've done several whole roofs. They're easy, but they're hard.

If you have more questions though, just PM me.

Also, what Darwin said about nailing 2x4s to the roof for steps/holds is correct, but you have to replace every shingle you nail through, and you should also patch the nail holes in the paper under those shingles with tar and felt paper.

 

[SphinxnihpS]

Nailing 2x to the roof would indeed do the exact same thing as roof jacks. But using roof jacks there is no hole to repair when you're done.

A harness will run around a $100, and everything you need is in the kit, anchor, rope, the one way grab and harness.

I have no idea what it will cost him to have it repaired, because I don't know how big of an area it is or what sort of tie in will be required. All I'm doing is trying to tell the fellow how to avoid killing himself. If I were doing the job I'd stand a ladder and place a pair of roof jacks with a plank right at the bottom of the roof. That would give me a place to put material, and a stop just in case I slid down the roof.
My general rule is that anything beyond 5/12 is high risk work, I try to avoid it.

Looks like 8 or 9/12 honestly, it's approaching 45 degrees of pitch. Pretty nasty to work on, but the gutters never clog...

 

[dfuze]

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'm going to grab some quotes from some roofers this week and see what they want for it. Hope the economy helps in that they won't turn down a small job or that they overcharge.