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athlon 1600+ unlocked- Hot Dang, I finally did it !

Paolo

Senior member
No biggy to most of you reading this, but my prior failures at this were a thorn in my back. I just had to pull this off. Prior to my first try at connecting those damned L1 bridges, I had read all the posts and guides, did all the elaborate taping, used superglue and defroster repair paint, then a circuit repair pen, and proceeded to make one screw up after another ( I just couldn't keep the L1 bridges seperated ). I eventually scraped off the green top coat in multiple spots and ended up w/ a shorted out mess that I had to take a dremel to just to get it to run locked. I wasted about 2 full weekends on this catastrophy, and was ego butt wipped. You see my first overclocking attempt (and success) was a celeron 300a to 450mHz overclock (a 50% gain. What a head rush !). I doubt it will ever be that sweet again.

Fast forward about a year. I bought a AGOIA-Y 1600+ at a computer fair this weekend for about $60. Rushing home with sweaty palms, I decided to try bridging the L1's using yellow crayon to fill the pits. Then I screwed open the silver circuit repair pen to get right at the goo. Tried the jeweler's flat screwdriver stamp-across-the-L1's technique at first----- NO GO ! Cleaned it off and went freehand with a pin dipped in the silver paint. Hah! nailed it on the first try ! Got it running now at 1710 (11.5 x 149, 18.25v) on my ABIT KX7, limited by 3 sticks of crucial 256meg 2100DDR ram.

My advice to would be L1 bridgers ? First, get a life; I could sure use one ! 2nd, it doesn't matter what you fill the pits with (as long as it doesn't conduct!); just keep the fill fairly flat. 3rd, The pin rules; just steady your hand, get good magnification, and practice first to get just the right amount of conductive paint on the tip of the pin. 4th, Look out for shorts, and finally be real careful when you scrape over the green or brown surface coat; it's real thin. One more thing, if it doesn't work out, It's not the end of the world; it just feels like it 😛
 
good job.

since u say ur limited by ur 2100 ddr ram, did u try with lower fsb but higher multi? if so, what was highest speed u could get?

 
@12x multiplier and about 1760mhz it crashed, but I have only monkeyed around with it a couple hours and not in an organized manner. Ideally I would leave only one stick of ram in and see what the true limits of the cpu were, but I am more interested in how well it can run w/ 256x3, since running fat files in photoshop is my passion. I have a feeling though that this particular cpu isn't one of those >1800 speed monsters you read about.
 
Congrats! I struggled with unlocking and gave up about 6 months ago. When I got my 1600+ AGOIA, I went back to it and got it after about 3 tries. I'm very glad I did, too. 🙂
 
Zodder, good to hear about another success story after dismal failure. I'm curious, what method finally work out for you?: Tape like crazy and paint in the grooves, freehand with a needle, or such, like me, or a kit, perhaps ?
 
How many tries,Mangler, how many tries before you got it work ? Or are you one of these higher lifeforms with surgeon like hands (and a dissecting microscope) that do it w/o any apparent sweat?
 
I guess I missed my own sarcasm... lighten up

Oh and thanks for the great idea! I work in a Biochemical research lab that has dissecting microscopes...I might just have to try that some time 🙂
 
I just unlocked my AGOIA 1500+ last week, and my Duron 750 2 weeks prior to that, got em both on the first shot, both my first OC's 🙂 The pin DOES rule, those bridges are tiny, and those jeweler screw drivers are too big, I dont care what anyone says 🙂 I thought the most nerve-racking part was putting everything back in, not knowing if anything was shorted, and hoping that it booted up and I had control of my multipliers 😀 Good feeling huh? yay for oc'ing!! XP 1500+ > XP 2000+ for me.

Jeff
 
I unlocked my XP1600+ a couple months ago. I used scotch tape to mask the bridges, gel-based superglue to fill the laser holes, defogger kit to connect, a pushpin to scrape excess if I connected my traces, and a cotton swap with isopropyl to wipe everything out and start over once or twice. Only took about 30 minutes, and it was my first attempt. Didn't use any magnification. I used a multimeter to verify my work, and felt pretty good when I put everything back together. Worked as expected; I'm running at 12x141, giving me about an extra 200MHz.

jaybee
 
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