AT Plumber advice needed please

[Fanatical Meat]

I just installed a new TPR(?) valve on my electric hot water tank. All went well except draining the 5 gallons took longer than I expected.
The new valve is rated for the same heat/pressure but higher BTU's. I am assuming the pressure temperature is the important part to be exact and the new valve can handle more BTU's is a good thing am I correct?

**I am talking about the pressure relief valve on the side of the tank**

 

[DrPizza]

It doesn't make sense to me - but I understand it. When it opens, it's releasing pressure and heat (hot water). It needs to be able to release that pressure and heat faster than the tank is gaining pressure and heat. That is, when you turn your hot water on at the sink, there's some slow rate, somewhere around a trickle, that your hot water tank should be able to keep up with. From experience, you know that if you turn the hot water on full blast, you're going to run out of hot water. But, imagine a situation in which your burner gets "stuck" on, and the flow rate at the sink is dripping. In that case, the water is going to get hotter and hotter.

Your temperature pressure relief valve has to dump hot water fast enough to prevent it from getting even hotter and higher pressure. But, what didn't make sense to me was that I wouldn't have even guessed that it was close.

 

[jaha2000]

As long as the BTU on the valve is higher that water heater can put out you are in the clear.

you new valve has a set pressure @ some known temp (probably 210F) that's the p rating on the valve. The T is the BTU setting. Generally a higher T rating means bigger orifice sizes that allows for more flow.

 

[Fanatical Meat]

old one is 150 psi / 210 F (degrees) / 100,000 BTU

New one is 150 psi / 210 F (degrees) / 115,000 BTU

Thanks for the help guys

I believe the pipe is 3/4 inch, it fits in the same pipe going down to the floor.

 

[Greenman]

I never knew that PTR valves had a btu rating. Though I also don't believe I've ever replaced one.