Question ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 - PCIE Wifi Adapter still relevant in 2020?

[LOUISSSSS]

My note 9 and S9 both get 200mbps using Fios 200/200 in my living room, 10 ft away from the Fios G1100 router. I've since started to WFH so i had to set up my main pc in a room far enough away that i'm "only" getting 130-150 speeds using the 5g network.

I'm wondering if this wifi adapter is still relevant in 2020: Asus pce-ac68 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My Gigabyte MB has onboard wifi, how do i disable and install this thing?

2.4ghz speeds suck since upgrading to the 200/200 on all devices, even nearby. 70up/70 down within 10 ft of router.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Yeah, unless you're trying to go long distances with a single central router over 2.4Ghz, and even then, speeds are so slow (relative to most customer's internet pipes), that one is better off with Mesh, Moca, or wiring the walls with some Cat6A (or better?).

As far as installing a PCI-E wifi card, basically, power-down, unplug, insert card, plug in, power-on, if you have an otherwise internet connection, Win10 should pull down some working drivers for the card, if not, hopefully you have a DVD drive and the card came with a driver CD/DVD. Or use the "other" internet connection, go to their web site, pull down drivers, and install them.

Anyways, after that, go either directly to Device Manager, Networking, and expand it, and then select the NIC that you want to disable, and right-click it and select "Disable".

You can also open Settings app, click on Network and Internet, click on the text below that says "Change Adapter Options", it should pop up a window with a list of adapters, and you can right-click on the old Wifi adapter, and select "Disable" from there.

Do one or the other, not both. Disabling in Device Manager, may make it completely disappear off of the other list, whereas if you did it by the Settings app, it will simply appear greyed-out.

Do also note that you will have to select your router's SSID with the new Wifi NIC, and punch in your wifi password again with the new NIC, to make a "Saved Network" setting.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Also, the FIOS G1100 router (I have one, too), doesn't have the 'best' reputation for wifi speed or coverage, especially the 5Ghz band.

Consider upgrading your router, there was another member here that was fairly impressed with both the speed and range of the TP-Link AX1500 router, which is like $80 at Walmart.com, maybe Amazon.com too. Well-priced for the performance.

Another alternative, is going for the FIOS "Home Network Router", the new white cuboid vertical 802.11ax router. (I have one of those too, but it's not connected.) Note that those have issues passing some types of IP packets, resulting in some people not able to WFH using certain VPN types/clients. It is unclear if VZ will offer a fix/update to allow those. The G1100 has no problem with those same VPNs, as I understand it. (Maybe having to do with passing GRE packet-type IP packets?)

You can in fact do both, use the G1100 for wired router and front-line router duties, and then set up a secondary router (like the TP-Link AX1500) to handle LAN chores and LAN wifi. That's what I did for a number of years with the G1100 and an Asus AC68U-class router running Tomato firmware.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I HAVE NOT used these, but I've used other Comfast USB NICs with decent success, but they now make an "AC1900 Gaming wifi NIC", that you can find shipped from China on ebay for $43-70. Supposedly 3x3, I think, with a circular base, with 4 short stubby antennas, and a USB cord.

Might be worth checking out too.

More spatial streams (3x3 better than 2x2 better than 1x1), work better with routers with matching numbers of spatial streams or more.

So, if you have an AC1900 router, that's 3x3 (AC1300), then using an AC600 1x1 client NIC, will limit max throughput to AC433.

I also don't fully trust PCI-E NICs, that have antennas directly attached, at least, because the rear wall of the PC acts as a faraday cage/shield, and blocks the wifi signal, at least partially.

I much prefer USB AC wifi NICs, in conjunction with a USB3.0 extension cord and/or a powered hub. At least, NICs that come with a cable, that let you position the antenna on top of your desk or whatnot.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Another option, this is what I was doing for a time, was using the G1100 for wired/front-line router duties, and then attaching an Asus "AiMesh"-capable router, as a secondary/LAN router, and then using other "AiMesh"-enabled "nodes" in the LAN, with wireless back-haul.

Seeing as how those units have AC 3x3, and capable of 80Mhz channels, they are fairly potent. However, they were not, in the case of my relatively small 2-room apt., reliable. I could not back up or restore successfully using Macrium Reflect Free using AiMesh nodes to bridge my LAN wirelessly back to the base router, and then wired to the NAS unit(s). They kept having "temporary" wifi "glitches" in the signal, that would resolve themselves within seconds, but were enough to cause Macrium Reflect, which at the time, had basically ZERO tolerance for network dropouts (eg. designed for wired networks ONLY), to error, and quit the backup / restore job, rather than allow a retry.

Other such things, such as Skype, that have a sort of "network recovery" built-in, fared much better overall with the AiMesh setup.

It could be due to the fact that all of my AC68U-class routers (my Asus ones at least) were REFURBS, and maybe they glitch out from time to time. But I have to feel that the AiMesh firmware might be partially responsible too, as the routers were mostly rock-solid (at least, wired) with Tomato firmware.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Thanks for the detailed response. I placed the order for that Wifi adapter in the OP, will try with that first. Was wondering... how is this still still considered a good wifi adapter in 2020 if it came out in 2013??? Would u have recommended another PCI-E wifi card?

Next i'll try to change the wifi router:
TP-Link Wifi 6 AX1500 : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wifi-AX1500-Smart-Router/dp/B07ZSDR49S
or
TP-Link AC1900 Smart WiFi Router : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC19...keywords=tp+link+router&qid=1586227710&sr=8-5

Yes, i'd need the network to work flawlessly without interruption. I wfh and have a lot of security devices all network connected (security cams - multiple, baby cam, car cam, fire alarm, thermostat, 2x breadwinners WFH)
I counted 21 devices that are network connected. May not be using them all at once, but many are on throughout the day (baby cam, security cams, smart tv, 2x computers, 2x phones)

 

[VirtualLarry]

I might consider cancelling your order, and going with these:

PCE-AX58BT | Networking | ASUS Global

PCE-AX58BT is a wifi 6 802.11ax PCI-E wifi adapter, pc upgrade to Bluetooth 5.0, faster wifi speed, large coverage, WPA3 and OFDMA support

www.asus.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XLP199J?tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

RT-AX58U | Networking | ASUS Global

AX3000 Dual Band WiFi 6 (802.11ax) Router supporting MU-MIMO and OFDMA technology, with AiProtection Pro network security powered by Trend Micro™, compatible with ASUS AiMesh WiFi system

www.asus.com

If you really have 21-22 Wifi client devices on your LAN, you should really consider getting an AX router, that supports OFDMA, and then getting a "Wifi 6" NIC that supports 160Mhz channels (if applicable), and OFDMA as well.

Indeed, though, if not all of your clients are OFDMA-ready, I don't know if the router can utilize that feature. You might consider having all of your "Internet of Things"-type devices, on one Wifi LAN (using an AC router, if none of those devices are AX), and then using an AX ("wifi 6") router AND PCI-E card for your PCs. (Keeping the IoT devices on a separate sub-net for security.)

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Which Duo would be best to pair with my Fios 200/200 home internet?
22 devices connected (2 computer, 2 phone, 5x crucial security cam/home safety devices, a few smart light bulbs, chromecasts, 2x Smart TVs)
Both WFH and req fast and stable internet

TP-Link Wifi 6 AX1500 Smart WiFi Router – ax Router, Gigabit, Dual Band, OFDMA, MU-MIMO, Works with Alexa(Archer AX10)

Amazon.com: TP-Link Wifi 6 AX1500 Smart WiFi Router – ax Router, Gigabit, Dual Band, OFDMA, MU-MIMO, Works with Alexa(Archer AX10): Electronics

Amazon.com: TP-Link Wifi 6 AX1500 Smart WiFi Router – ax Router, Gigabit, Dual Band, OFDMA, MU-MIMO, Works with Alexa(Archer AX10): Electronics

www.amazon.com

+
TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 PCIe WiFi Card | Up to 2400Mbps | Bluetooth 5.0 | 802.11AX Dual Band Wireless Adapter with MU-MIMO,OFDMA,Ultra-Low Latency | Supports Windows 10 (64bit) only (Archer TX3000E)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Bluetooth-Ultra-Low-Archer-TX3000E/dp/B07ZV2CJL2/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ax+wifi+card&qid=1586228153&sr=8-6

or

Fios G1100 (stock) Wifi Router
+
ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[VirtualLarry]

Hmm, for the money, that TP-Link solution looks really good. $80 for router, $50 for advanced PCI-E wifi 6 card, I think that you'll be golden.

Still, consider putting the IoT devices on the G1100's wifi, if it's currently already handling them OK, and put your cell phones and PC's using the PCI-E cards on the AX / Wifi 6 router. (Separate SSIDs and wifi channels, of course.)

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Hmm, for the money, that TP-Link solution looks really good. $80 for router, $50 for advanced PCI-E wifi 6 card, I think that you'll be golden.

Still, consider putting the IoT devices on the G1100's wifi, if it's currently already handling them OK, and put your cell phones and PC's using the PCI-E cards on the AX / Wifi 6 router.

ugh... i'm too shitty with networking to know how to do that. U live near NYC and want to make a few bucks or a bottle of scotch?


Would that TP Link setup be good enough to run in-place of the Verizon G1100 router?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Yeah, the TP-Link would work OK, I feel, in-place of the G1100. Or should.

BTW, you have FIOS? Do you have TV too? If so, you'll need to KEEP your G1100 as the Primary router attached to the ONT.

At this point, I would also recommend posting (they allow anon posting) on dslreports.com, if you're not already a member, in the Verizon FIOS forum, and peruse their FAQ, they have info on replacing your Verizon FIOS router with a 3rd-party router, with and without TV service. They are good resource, although fairly specialized in many ways to broadband issues. AT Forums is more of a generalist tech forum.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

No, i cut out their fios tv (Youtube TV, NF, Amazon Prime)

Let me get this straight if i want to use my g1100 still as the main Router (for IOT devices)
-I can configure the TPLINK AX1500 Router to another SSID, set DHCP to Static, Change IP address to something other than 192.168.1.1 (like 192.168.1.220)
-connect the TPLink to one of the Ethernet outputs on the G1100 to the "input" on the TPLINK AX1500

Does something like that work?

Most importantly, do you think the TPLINK setup will have better range if i'm getting mediocre range now with the G1100 + my MB's onboard wifi

 

[SamirD]

Yes, i'd need the network to work flawlessly without interruption.

If you need this, then you really need some sort of wired connection. Moca and powerline are great for this purpose and are very, very easy to set up. And once you move what items you can to wired, it frees up your wireless to work better with whatever wireless devices are left.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Most importantly, do you think the TPLINK setup will have better range if i'm getting mediocre range now with the G1100 + my MB's onboard wifi

Yes, most likely.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

i should just update my other more relevant title thread, but damn installed only the PCI E Wifi Card and got these speeds at 6pm EST NYC


Whereas I just ran Speedtest before disabling my onboard MB wifi:

 

[VirtualLarry]

Looking pretty decent, if you have 200/200 FIOS, I believe that it is currently provisioned at 300/300, and you're seeing the improvement in your wifi with the new PCI-E card, with the headroom from the provisioning.

BTW, did you cancel the order for the AC68 PCI-E card, or is that what you're showing in the screenshots above? Or is that the TP-Link Wifi 6 AX card?

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Looking pretty decent, if you have 200/200 FIOS, I believe that it is currently provisioned at 300/300, and you're seeing the improvement in your wifi with the new PCI-E card, with the headroom from the provisioning.

BTW, did you cancel the order for the AC68 PCI-E card, or is that what you're showing in the screenshots above? Or is that the TP-Link Wifi 6 AX card?

Yea i cancelled the order for the AC68 card. I was going to go for the TPLink Wifi 6 Router + Adapter setup from above. The adapter was actually only $50, vs $69 for the Asus AC68 (which i'm sure is equally as good.) i'm not fully sure whats the benefits of AX over AC??

Also.... Since my wifi is working great with the G1100 wifi router and what i have now, is there a point in setting up the TP-Link Archer AX10 AX3000 router?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Also.... Since my wifi is working great with the G1100 wifi router and what i have now, is there a point in setting up the TP-Link Archer AX10 AX3000 router?

Well, I was more thinking towards the future. You have (comparatively) a whole bunch of devices, all presumably on wifi, and the AX / Wifi 6 routers, have that OFDMA feature that allows distributing data to more devices more cleanly, rather than them all competing for airtime, and it would be a relatively cheap upgrade. OTOH, if you don't need it, then you don't need it.

I'm just guessing, but I feel that if you swapped out the router with the TP-Link AX1500 or AX3000 router, that you would rather easily see 300/300 speedtests. However, I don't know how well all of your other devices would fare.

If all of your other devices are working OK on the G1100, and none are dropping out or glitching, then probably just keep what works, for now at least.

6Ghz band wifi is opening up really soon, the FCC is supposedly going to open up that band as an (unlicensed) ISM band, but I have a feeling that most router chipsets/SoCs are going to need a hardware revision to really take advantage of that band as well. So new routers will be needed in a year or two, anyways.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Hey Larry, do you know how i can fully get rid of / disable permanently the selected "Wifi"? I believe thats my MB's onboard wifi. Whats cut off is: "Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 3168"

And i'm currently connecting with "Wi-Fi 3"

The onboard wifi is potentially interfering with the PCI-E card.



I've tried to right click - disable, and it goes grey, but when i restart my PC, it comes back on.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I've tried to right click - disable, and it goes grey, but when i restart my PC, it comes back on.

That's... odd. It shouldn't re-enable like that. Did the Intel onboard wifi come with a "helper app", by any chance, that loads at boot or login, that may be enabling the hardware every time? You would have to disable that in Task Manager, under Startup Items too.

Edit: If nothing else, try Disabling it in Device Manager, under Networks, and also under BlueTooth (both need to be disabled). Then it should disappear out of the Network Connections folder entirely, I believe.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

That's... odd. It shouldn't re-enable like that. Did the Intel onboard wifi come with a "helper app", by any chance, that loads at boot or login, that may be enabling the hardware every time? You would have to disable that in Task Manager, under Startup Items too.

Edit: If nothing else, try Disabling it in Device Manager, under Networks, and also under BlueTooth (both need to be disabled). Then it should disappear out of the Network Connections folder entirely, I believe.

Gotcha my new PCIE card also has BT, and theres multiple BT devices under HW connection. Any way to differentiate between which is my onboard BT and the PCIE BT?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Under the View menu, there should be a "View Devices by Connection". You'll then have to "drill down" the tree, and find your card, and the onboard, and then see the BlueTooth device UNDER them, and disable that one.

Edit: DON'T disable the "RFCOMM Protocol (TDI)" one, nor either of the Microsoft BlueTooth Enumerator devices.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Under the View menu, there should be a "View Devices by Connection". You'll then have to "drill down" the tree, and find your card, and the onboard, and then see the BlueTooth device UNDER them, and disable that one.

Edit: DON'T disable the "RFCOMM Protocol (TDI)" one, nor either of the Microsoft BlueTooth Enumerator devices.

Larry, i swear, this keeps coming back, even without restarting windows. i would disable it and uninstall it, look away for a period of times and it comes back


Also heres my multiple BT devices in device manager, any way to tell which is my MB BT and which is my new on from TP LINK PCI-E Card?
Show by Connection:


Show by Container:


Not that i use my computer's BT for anything at all, lol

 

[VirtualLarry]

Larry, i swear, this keeps coming back, even without restarting windows. i would disable it and uninstall it, look away for a period of times and it comes back

Oh. That's why. Don't Uninstall it. JUST "Disable" it. It is being re-detected as a hardware device, and re-installed, when Windows does another round of PnP enumeration, like whenever you connect a new USB drive or something. If the device is DISABLED, then it stays DISABLED, and shouldn't be re-detected, or re-enabled. If you UNINSTALL it, it will get re-enumerated, and re-detected, and re-installed, with a default of ENABLED.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

Oh. That's why. Don't Uninstall it. JUST "Disable" it. It is being re-detected as a hardware device, and re-installed, when Windows does another round of PnP enumeration, like whenever you connect a new USB drive or something. If the device is DISABLED, then it stays DISABLED, and shouldn't be re-detected, or re-enabled. If you UNINSTALL it, it will get re-enumerated, and re-detected, and re-installed, with a default of ENABLED.

kkk, it just came back after restarting, will disable it and leave it like that! thanks