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Asus P5K-E, Abit IP35, or IP35-E which should i get?

Im looking at two mobos for a rig im about to build.

Ive looked at the reviews and the lists (This board is a god send).

Im in between the Asus P5K-E, the Abit IP35-E or the IP35. Going by price alone it would be the IP35-E seeing as how its $69 after rebate and the Asus is about double. The Techspot review puts the benchmarks at mostly the IP35 ahead.

But I like the design, options, and accessories that come with the P5K-E but is it worth double? The IP35 base seems to be more aligned with the P5K-E, is there any info on this board? This is going with a Core 2 Duo E4400 processor.

I dont overclock and I dont have any external sata devices or firewire devices, but Id like to have the ability to use a digital vid camera if I got one.

Thanks for your help
 
Hi orionshadow,

Welcome to the forum. I just joined recently, too. Great forum, good people...

I went through the same process as you and ended up ordering the ASUS P5K-E. Mostly because of my past association with ASUS mobos, a little bit of brand loyalty, I guess. I also really wanted at least one external eSATA, vertical (not flat) SATA connectors, and the ICH9R chip instead of ICH9... Although I don't use RAID, I think the 9R offers more. I did want 3 PCI slots, but can settle for 2 usable ones. I also wanted a mobo that supported 1066 memory, and the the ASUS board does.

The Abit P35Pro was my Abit choice, $180 (plus $20 MIR) which is close to the ASUS mobo price of $155. The Abit IP35-E is pretty vanilla for me, but I guess you know that SerpentRoyal here loves it due to its overclocking features. Like you, I don't overclock much or often, so that's not a big thing for me.

I'll be using an E6850 and OCZ DDR2 1066 SLI memory.

Don't know about vid camera use, maybe someone else here can help you out there.

Not sure what else I missed, maybe we can discuss other things as you or I think of them.

Noel
 
There's not much difference between the ip35 and the ip35-e, both are fairly no-frills. The ip35-e is certainly an excellent performing board at a great value, but is quite ghetto as far as bells and whistles/conveniences compared to the Pro (raid, esata, external cmos reset, led status, more fan aux's...), which is what I went with and very glad I did.

And even tho you can add e-sata or raid cards to the -e board for much less than the cost of the pro, you would still miss out on the bells and whistles, while also be needlessly filling valuable pci slots that are already at a premium.
 
I'd say go with the Asus P5k-E as personaly I think asus is just a better all around company per customer service needs.
I have the Ip35-E mobo, and dont get me wrong its a good board but it just lacks to many features.
No raid,Not all caps are 100% solid only a few around the cpu the rest are non solid,very few fan headers, double boot issues which could kill all of your parts ect...
If I could do it all over again it would be the P5k-E all the way!!
Better chip set cooling,tons of fan headers,"No double boot issues",all 100% solid caps not just a few here and there like abit, raid right out of the box and the list goes on.
If I where you would just get the P5k-E and save your self all the hastle.
 
- Solid caps is a marketing tool. Japanese electrolytic caps run at least 5 to 7 years under normal use. The high-end Intel boards still use some solid and electrolytic caps.

- There are four fan headers. Two are controlled by the MB. These two speed-controlled fan headers will work with 2-pin, 3-pin, and 4-pin fan. Most boards will only work with 3 or 4-pin fan.

- The double post has been addressed with 13 Beta BIOS. This double post is an Intel chipset issue, going back to P965. The chipset will check for strap during cold boot.

My NB is 47C with E4300 @ 3.49GHz. Get active cooling if you're pushing any quad north of 3.2GHz. Heat pipe and fancy fins are worthless without good air flow over the cooling fins.
 
Facts about P5K-E.

1. 1/2 of MOSFETs are not cooled by heat sink.

2. 8-phase power module runs hotter and uses at least 20 more watts. About the same overclock as IP35-E.

3. DDR2 1066 support is again, a marketing scam. All IP35 boards will run DDR2 1066. IP35-E is stable with 600MHz RAM speed (DDR2 1200)!

IP35-E has a free bay under the PCIE-16x slot. This is very nice touch if you have a larger GPU. With the Asus board, you will block one of the PCI slot.
 
So what about the IP35 vs the IP35-E. I like having a dedicated Lan connection through PCI-E.

Also do you think the $129.99 price vs the $89 is worth the IP35 upgrade?
 
IP35-E and IP35 are the same board. Same LAN performance. Take-off the IP35-E label and you will see the IP35 logo on the MB. Non-E has RAID and two more SATA headers. I don't need those bells and whistles, so $61 AR works for me.
 
Last question, im looking at memory on newegg, what is a good ram selection and what speeds?

heres what im thinking of ordering:

Western Digital Caviar SE WD2500AAJS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
Model #: WD2500AAJS
Item #: N82E16822136113

A-DATA 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model ADQPE1A16K - Retail

Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 Allendale 2.0GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E4400 - Retail
Model #: BX80557E4400

SAPPHIRE 100196L Radeon X1950PRO 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail

ABIT IP35-E LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WBP Black SECC STEEL ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 500W Power Supply - Retail
 
Originally posted by: orionshadow
Would 2 sticks of 1gig Kingston KVR533D2 be alright? I already have that

IP35 boards will only work with DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs. I would recommend that you stick with your old rig if you cannot afford $20 for decent RAMs.

 
lol, thats not a problem, i just was wondering if the ram would work, if not ill be selling it I guess. Ill be going for DDR2 800 then. Thanks for your help
 
You seem to be favoring Kingston/Crucial but never mention Corsair, is that because they don't work very well with IP35 boards or because you haven't tried them/dislike them? 😛
 
Originally posted by: Tangman85
You seem to be favoring Kingston/Crucial but never mention Corsair, is that because they don't work very well with IP35 boards or because you haven't tried them/dislike them? 😛

Another question about memory for SerpentRoyal,

I spend a lot of time on the CPU forum and read the CPU mag with intensity, and in both cases Corsair and OCZ memory win high marks. You've told me OCZ memory is "junk." So between Tangman's Corsair question and my use of OCZ, why do you not like OCZ or mention Corsair, both top of the line brands (at least IMHO)?

Noel
 
I don't like to use any DDR2 667 or 800 rated above 1.8V. 1.8V Corsair modules are okay.

I no longer buy Corsair because my last 2 out of 3 rebates were MIA. We all know that the USPS is not 33% efficient. Corsair's RMA is just so so. Kingston has the best RMA, followed by Crucial. Both are widely available and are competitively priced. Corsair tends to cost more without rebate. Corsair also lacks the extensive R&D of Kingston and Crucial. Kingston and Crucial deal with IC products. They don't mess around with PSU or other non-core competency offerings.
 
I see, well I got some TWIN2X2048-6400C5DHX and they are rated at 1.8V, got 4 sticks and was told to just slap up VDIMM to 1.9 and it should be fine.
Should I be expecting some issues? I could try replacing the memory for some Kingston or crucial but I got it incredibly cheap and I was curious if I should be fine with what I've got?
I'm sorry for highjacking the thread, too :x
 
Originally posted by: NoelS
Originally posted by: Tangman85
You seem to be favoring Kingston/Crucial but never mention Corsair, is that because they don't work very well with IP35 boards or because you haven't tried them/dislike them? 😛

Another question about memory for SerpentRoyal,

I spend a lot of time on the CPU forum and read the CPU mag with intensity, and in both cases Corsair and OCZ memory win high marks. You've told me OCZ memory is "junk." So between Tangman's Corsair question and my use of OCZ, why do you not like OCZ or mention Corsair, both top of the line brands (at least IMHO)?

Noel


Perhaps hands-picked OCZ modules will fare better. The OCZ stuffs from Frys are not worth buying. I'm generally okay with Corsair on the performance side. OCZ RAMs tend to require more RAM voltage and NB voltage to achieve rated speed. For example, if DDR2 800 RAM is rated at 4-4-4-12, then it should run at that speed with default 1.8V JEDEC without the need to bump up Vdimm and NB voltage. Why? Because many boards do not auto adjust Vdimm and Vnorth bridge to compensate for these OCZ modules.

The standard Kingston N5 DDR2 800 ValueRAMs consistently outperform many OCZ modules in the overclocking department. N5s are rated at 5-5-5-18 but can easily run at 4-4-4-12-2T with 1.8V JEDEC. Top speed is around 460-500MHz with 2.1V/4-4-4-12-2T. How many OCZ DDR2 800 can do this? High quality RAMs will cost more $. N5s tend to carry a small price premium over the average DDR2 800 RAMs. These will rarely show up at your local retailer with a rebate.

Go to the Abit forum and search for boot issue with OCZ RAMs.
 
Originally posted by: Tangman85
I see, well I got some TWIN2X2048-6400C5DHX and they are rated at 1.8V, got 4 sticks and was told to just slap up VDIMM to 1.9 and it should be fine.
Should I be expecting some issues? I could try replacing the memory for some Kingston or crucial but I got it incredibly cheap and I was curious if I should be fine with what I've got?
I'm sorry for highjacking the thread, too :x

Try them since you already have them. You can run any DDR2 667 or 800 up to about 2.0V for extended use. Very high-quality RAMs will be able to run at rated speed and voltage, even with four modules. Borderline RAMs tend to require a tad more Vdimm with four sticks.

 
Originally posted by: jjsole
There's not much difference between the ip35 and the ip35-e, both are fairly no-frills. The ip35-e is certainly an excellent performing board at a great value, but is quite ghetto as far as bells and whistles/conveniences compared to the Pro (raid, esata, external cmos reset, led status, more fan aux's...), which is what I went with and very glad I did.

And even tho you can add e-sata or raid cards to the -e board for much less than the cost of the pro, you would still miss out on the bells and whistles, while also be needlessly filling valuable pci slots that are already at a premium.

Do you know how many expensive boards I have purchased that had all of the gimmick crap? Dual LAN, Firewire, eSATA, RAID...never even freakin' used them.

Dual LAN is pointless if you have a router. Firewire is pointless because 99% of the peripheral add-ons are all USB. eSATA might be a good option but I have plenty of USB external HDDs. Onboard RAID is a joke of a performer, might be good for RAID 1 though.

Sorry, I'll take a solid board with great overclocking and only what I need over the boards that cost 2-3 times as much.

 
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