they all warp ('warp'), to some degree. every make, every model. bigger, thicker rotors will resist it more, but those are typically accompanied by a heavier vehicle with bigger pads and very large and/or multiple caliper pistons.
older cars were harder to warp because of large, beefy rotors with integral hubs (taper bearing setups). usuable rotor area in relation to its weight is quite small, and weaker single piston setups with relatively small pads simply couldn't brake well- which means they couldn't build heat, which means they couldn't ruin rotors.
a modern car with a sealed ball bearing hub and rotors that simply slip over the lugs- those can warp. give me a car, and i'm pretty sure that i can find someone capable of murdering the brakes until the car starts to shake like a space shuttle on re-entry.
and frankly i don't think that the manufacturer matters much. i'm sure pricier rotors could indeed be purer, more precise castings, but of all the aftermarket parts i've seen cause trouble (spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, ect- and not just driveability parts; even simple stuff like brake pads and oil filters), i've never had to replace a rotor for the simple fact that it was aftermarket. plenty of OEM rotors are, in fact, shit, and can probably be surpassed by aftermarket ones. shit, i've spun the rotors on my mom's car (toyota) twice, both times with minimal warpage present. little wear at all, in fact- no lips, no grooving, no strange spots or discoloration, and this is between 25-30k+ brake jobs on the car of someone who is fucking hard on brakes. chinese rotors. iirc the low-end 40-50 buck ones from napa or carquest; so not as bad as duralast.
the absolute WORST thing you can do is buy cheap aftermarket pads. i think autozone's 19.99 (maybe even less) pads are made of old melted rotors and dirt.
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