Are Corsa exhausts worth the money?

[Bacstar]

My next project on the car is upgrading the exhausts. I'm liking the sound of the Corsa Sports.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np3hjSvzNrQ

My previous car had Flowmasters can't remember which model though that sounded good as well. After doing some research, engine drone becomes a problem due to the MDS when using magnaflows or flowmasters. Corsa's supposably aren't affected by this. I don't understand what drone is, but is it a problem to be concerned about?

 

[NutBucket]

What car/engine. This is what matters when selecting an exhaust/mufflers.

 

[Vic Vega]

That sounds really good (the car in the video is a 300C).

 

[Bacstar]

My car is a 2012 Chrysler 300S with the 5.7l V8 same engine I think in the video

 

[Vdubchaos]

Whatever exhaust you get, make sure it's not just Stainless Steel but T-304 Stainless to ensure it will outlast the car.

Not all "stainless steel" is created equal.

Most T304 exhausts will come with lifetime warranty (for example my Passat's Techtonic Tunning exhaust came with one).....it's T304.

PS. Flex Pipe will not be forever and is usually not covered (something that wears/breaks over time).

 

[DaTT]

Think Corsa is expensive? Try pricing out Bassani. I have a full set (excluding headers) on my car and I love the sound.

 

[DaTT]

Here's a sound video, not great quality but all I could find in the short time I looked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yApuTP12qcc

 

[Apex]

My next project on the car is upgrading the exhausts. I'm liking the sound of the Corsa Sports.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np3hjSvzNrQ

My previous car had Flowmasters can't remember which model though that sounded good as well. After doing some research, engine drone becomes a problem due to the MDS when using magnaflows or flowmasters. Corsa's supposably aren't affected by this. I don't understand what drone is, but is it a problem to be concerned about?

I have a Corsa on my truck (Trailblazer SS). It's certainly a nice sound, with no drone. This being said, it's definitely not the best flowing design out there, so you may be giving up a bit of power. It really comes down to the best compromise for your preferences.

 

[Bacstar]

Yeah...I'm keeping all my options open for now. Just looking at what's all available. I took a look at the Corsa website, and they had sound samples for Xtreme, Sport, and Touring. After listening, I feel like the Touring is the way I want to go. Just some rumble when I stomp on it. And looking at the shops up here in Anchorage, most seem to sell Flowmasters when looking at their ads. I got a month or so to decide...

 

[SSSnail]

Wait, isn't the sound is defined by how your muffler is constructed? If you just want sound, then why not just change out the muffler?

 

[Bacstar]

Wait, isn't the sound is defined by how your muffler is constructed? If you just want sound, then why not just change out the muffler?

You would think....several years ago on my last car, I just went to a muffler shop and said, "here's $400 what's the best you can do?"

Now with the internet and the various car forums out there, I'm hearing about resonators, cat-backs, axle back, muffler only, resonator deletes, stainless steel, T304, etc etc. :S

 

[Apex]

Wait, isn't the sound is defined by how your muffler is constructed? If you just want sound, then why not just change out the muffler?

Yes and no. For the most part it is. However, tuning out resonance frequencies (annoying drone through different RPM ranges) also has to do with piping length/area, especially when you're using some of the more straight through muffler designs.

 

[franksta]

Looking at SummitRacing they have Corsa exhausts for about $1500. I'd say that's not worth it, unless you are really in love with the sound.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/corsa-performance-exhaust/make/chrysler/engine-type/v8


I spent $500 for the exhaust on my Grand Marquis. Admittedly the tubes are not stainless, only the mufflers are. I don't think having it done in stainless would have added another $1000 to the price but I didn't ask.

 

[Bacstar]

Looking at SummitRacing they have Corsa exhausts for about $1500. I'd say that's not worth it, unless you are really in love with the sound.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/corsa-performance-exhaust/make/chrysler/engine-type/v8


I spent $500 for the exhaust on my Grand Marquis. Admittedly the tubes are not stainless, only the mufflers are. I don't think having it done in stainless would have added another $1000 to the price but I didn't ask.

When I priced it out on AutoAnything.com, it came out to about the same amount, but shipping to Alaska is probably going to kill me. Site really doesn't explain what it all comes with...since it's dual exhaust, I'll probably get 2 of everything. I'll probably do what you did and just swap out mufflers.

I'm going to go to one of the local shops around here, if I can find one, that sells corsa and get an estimate in the near future. Looking at Summit Racing, it listed 4 mufflers, related piping and hardware.

 

[JCH13]

Yes and no. For the most part it is. However, tuning out resonance frequencies (annoying drone through different RPM ranges) also has to do with piping length/area, especially when you're using some of the more straight through muffler designs.

This, mostly.

I would add that the straight-through mufflers don't target a specific frequency to quiet down, only chambered mufflers do. This can help a lot with droning if the muffler is sized right. This is also why some cars have resonance chambers.

Looking at SummitRacing they have Corsa exhausts for about $1500. I'd say that's not worth it, unless you are really in love with the sound.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/corsa-performance-exhaust/make/chrysler/engine-type/v8


I spent $500 for the exhaust on my Grand Marquis. Admittedly the tubes are not stainless, only the mufflers are. I don't think having it done in stainless would have added another $1000 to the price but I didn't ask.

I hope your mufflers are bolted in with good gaskets. Welding mild to stainless is a big no-no. The weld is generally very very brittle and the metals will experience galvanic corrosion against each other, especially with the acids that can form in an exhaust system.

OP, if you're from AK it may be worth getting all stainless to deal with the insanely shitting cold-weather driving you have to do. Aforementioned exhaust acids will have a much higher chance of condensing out of the exhaust stream and messing things up.

Edit: a discussion of corrosion between carbon and stainless: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=277128

While we're not dealing with water piping, plenty of water condenses out of the exhaust stream as the vehicle is warming up and as it is cooling down.

 

[Bacstar]

OP, if you're from AK it may be worth getting all stainless to deal with the insanely shitting cold-weather driving you have to do. Aforementioned exhaust acids will have a much higher chance of condensing out of the exhaust stream and messing things up.

Edit: a discussion of corrosion between carbon and stainless: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=277128

While we're not dealing with water piping, plenty of water condenses out of the exhaust stream as the vehicle is warming up and as it is cooling down.

Thanks for the reminder. Learned all this stuff when I was in the Navy...ex-nuke machinist mate, but it's been awhile since I had to think about stuff like this Hopefully, I hope the muffler shop I go to doesn't skimp on their work and tries not to rip me off ....

 

[Ketchup]

I have heard a lot of Chrysler V-8's with aftermarket mufflers and I don't believe it takes anything too exotic to make them sound good (esp a Hemi). I remember the last time I test drive a Charger it sounded great from the outside, but didn't really matter since I could barely hear it inside the car anyway.

Having said all that, the video in the first link sounded pretty sweet!

 

[phucheneh]

I hope your mufflers are bolted in with good gaskets. Welding mild to stainless is a big no-no. The weld is generally very very brittle and the metals will experience galvanic corrosion against each other, especially with the acids that can form in an exhaust system.

OP, if you're from AK it may be worth getting all stainless to deal with the insanely shitting cold-weather driving you have to do. Aforementioned exhaust acids will have a much higher chance of condensing out of the exhaust stream and messing things up.

Edit: a discussion of corrosion between carbon and stainless: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=277128

While we're not dealing with water piping, plenty of water condenses out of the exhaust stream as the vehicle is warming up and as it is cooling down.

Corrosion occurs on exhaust when you weld stainless to mild with regular rod. Use stainless rod and there shouldn't be any issues...YMMV but as you said, we're not dealing with water pipes. You're also not running electricity through them...everything past the engine is isolated from the chassis by rubber hangers; electricity is only going to flow through the exhaust if it helps it get to ground.

 

[Bacstar]

Since I saw that there are 4 mufflers in a cat-back setup, should I just change out a pair? Which pair?

 

[Apex]

Since I saw that there are 4 mufflers in a cat-back setup, should I just change out a pair? Which pair?

You can always opt for dual in, dual out mufflers. That way you can go from 4 mufflers to just 2.

For instance, something like this:

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=10910

That's a 4" x 9" oval, with 14" long body. 2.25" inlets and outlets (like your stock piping).

I'm not sure if 14" body length is right for your car, since I don't know your stock length, but in general, as long as you can fit it, longer bodies will tend to give you a bit better sound attenuation.

Dynomax makes one with an internal X configuration and longer body in the 2.25" piping diameter. 4.5" x 9.75" with a 20" body:

http://dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=ultraflox

 

[JCH13]

Corrosion occurs on exhaust when you weld stainless to mild with regular rod. Use stainless rod and there shouldn't be any issues...YMMV but as you said, we're not dealing with water pipes. You're also not running electricity through them...everything past the engine is isolated from the chassis by rubber hangers; electricity is only going to flow through the exhaust if it helps it get to ground.

Erm... there's still carbon steel melted to stainless, it doesn't matter if it's stainless wire melted to carbon steel, or carbon steel wire melted to stainless. If you have a reference that suggests otherwise, I'd be curious to see it. Even bolting mild flanges to stainless flanges w/o a complete electrical isolation kit is ill-advised.

Also, there doesn't have to be an external source of current flowing through the junction, it's junction itself that makes current (not sure that's obvious to everyone). The junction will discharge like a shorted battery, which is partly why galvanic corrosion is so aggressive.

 

[JCH13]

I did a little more research and found this article:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-stainless-to.html

312/309 (stainless) filler wire is considered a decent way to join mild and stainless alloys, though Inconel/Hastelloy (nickle super alloys) would be preferable.

Also found this article:

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=101

Stress corrosion cracking = sad time. Especially in the high-vibration situation of an exhaust system. They also suggest Inconel/Nickle-based filler material.

I think that using a nickle filler metal would also cut down on crevice corrosion that I think could be a concern.

I know there must be a million and one stories of people welding mild to stainless with 309/312 and it being fine, but that doesn't mean it'll work in all situations and certainly doesn't mean that it's the correct thing to do.

Just a little brain food.

 

[franksta]

I did a little more research and found this article:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-stainless-to.html

312/309 (stainless) filler wire is considered a decent way to join mild and stainless alloys, though Inconel/Hastelloy (nickle super alloys) would be preferable.

Also found this article:

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=101

Stress corrosion cracking = sad time. Especially in the high-vibration situation of an exhaust system. They also suggest Inconel/Nickle-based filler material.

I think that using a nickle filler metal would also cut down on crevice corrosion that I think could be a concern.

I know there must be a million and one stories of people welding mild to stainless with 309/312 and it being fine, but that doesn't mean it'll work in all situations and certainly doesn't mean that it's the correct thing to do.

Just a little brain food.

Those super nickel rods are expensive, around $80 per pound where the SS is less than $20.

When my welds go bad I'll use it as an excuse to re-do the exhaust. I'm not crazy about how the exits were done and it sits kinda close to the differential where it goes over the axle.

 

[JCH13]

Those super nickel rods are expensive, around $80 per pound where the SS is less than $20.

When my welds go bad I'll use it as an excuse to re-do the exhaust. I'm not crazy about how the exits were done and it sits kinda close to the differential where it goes over the axle.

I hear ya. To play devils advocate: how many pounds of filler will really get used? My guess is a small fraction of a pound, making the difference in filler cost immaterial when compared to the cost of a $30 v-band fitting, or $100-200 muffler.

 

[franksta]

I hear ya. To play devils advocate: how many pounds of filler will really get used? My guess is a small fraction of a pound, making the difference in filler cost immaterial when compared to the cost of a $30 v-band fitting, or $100-200 muffler.

Admittedly you could probably do a whole exhaust with just a few rods. I guess if I was trying to save money on an exhaust buying a TIG welder was my first mistake. Ha!