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Arctic silver 5 adhesive

L

lavaheadache

Diamond Member
I just glued a TT Giant III to my X800 pro! I need to get this thing off! I was only testing it out and used a mixture of 50-50 as5/as5 adhesive( I was using it to fix a northbridge heatsink and used the wrong pile of goop) I realized what I had done when I put the card in my machine and saw the other set of "untouched" goop I had. Is there any kind of solvent that will dissolve this shit! Some one come to my rescue
 
Its arctic silver 5 adhesive, nothing will get it off. If you try to take it off you will damage your card.

Sorry to say, any solvent of fluid will also damage the card.

🙁
 
after reading that.. I had the sensation of being kicked in the nuts.. well more of the sensation of watching another guy get kicked in the nuts
 
try putting the whole contraption in a water/air tight bag and leaving it in the freezer for 45min
the temperature should make the dryed compound more brittle (so you won't need excessive force) then pull it out real fast and see if you can't break it off.

but be carefull
and don't ruin the vid card
other options like prying it off could prove too risky

good luck
 
maybe you'll get lucky and the temp will cause the thermal compound to expand and break (atleast partially) the epoxy bond, since you did make it 50/50.

you should take into account the lbs/sq" that's being pressed on the GPU (i havn't looked at the x800 die/package, but this method did work for a rage128 i had with 50/50 AS2 compound/epoxy)

just hope none of that stuff oozed onto some capacitors and be carefull of exerting force at odd angles cause it is likely (hopefully) gonna break off like glass if you use the freezer method.


word!!
 
Is it considered bumping my own thread by responding to peoples posts? I would try some acetone but I dont know if that stuff would hurt the die on the video card, I think it would most definately chew up the aluminum heatsink right? The freezer idea seems to be straight off bill nye the science guy but I guess If it works I would try it. Im not going to do anything though until I get a couple tried and true answers.
 
acetone, or any kinda liquid (even water) would be a bad idea as it is likely to collect surface particles and short tiny traces/pins that you can't see nomatter how long you let it dry or well you clean the surface(did this to my GF4 ti4200). Also the acetone (or any other solvent) would likely dissolve the conformal coating/paint on the pcb exposing layers/traces/etc. to each other, which could be a big minus. :shocked:
 
Kind of reminds me of when I recently ruined my $100 PSU when trying to mod it. Only difference is that mine was relatively easy to fix (minor crimping).
 
Originally posted by: Soulkeeper
acetone, or any kinda liquid (even water) would be a bad idea as it is likely to collect surface particles and short tiny traces/pins that you can't see nomatter how long you let it dry or well you clean the surface(did this to my GF4 ti4200). Also the acetone (or any other solvent) would likely dissolve the conformal coating/paint on the pcb exposing layers/traces/etc. to each other, which could be a big minus. :shocked:
Click to expand...

Acetone, AFAIK, is safe to use on PCBs. Perhaps you're thinking of benzene (paint thinner)?

What, exactly, are "tiny traces/pins that you can't see"? And acetone evaporates cleanly in just a few minutes. Water's not the best thing to use, because it can leave residue (unless it is distilled water), and it does take a long time to evaporate.

Personally, I would email Arctic Silver and see what they say. There's probably *something* you can do, and they're the ones that might actually know!
 
i mean like underneath smd components, under the gpu, inbetween/under mem modules (think they have over 100 pins for just 1 gddr2/gddr3 mem chip).
even distilled water is a bad idea to get on the pcb (even if you give it weeks to dry) cause mineral deposits from the solder/resin/"dust" is likely to be concentrated near and conduct between small traces when we're only talking fractions of a cm or mm.
especially since silver is involved, one you get a tablespoon of water on the pcb you might as well throw the thing in a pool in my experience, just you can't remove all deposits, and can't stop them from staying behind from even 1 drop of water in my experience.

Of course leaving a cheepo radio in the rain and letting it dry for a week or two isn't exactly the same thing. Since, such devices are likely to have higher tolerances for such things, don't have so many pcb layers/pins/traces/etc integrated into/onto/under the pcb/chips, and more space between components.


the issues people were having with 2d quality on older video cards comes to mind, once you get a capacitor/resistor wet it'll never have the same capacitance/resistance or quality, leakage etc.

 
ok guys heres what Ive come up with. I called arctic silver and they would not recommend any method for removal for liability reasons, I even promised I wouldnt blame them. The tech did suggest to look at the overclocker forum and do a search. Upon much searching, I have read many people have great luck putting the component in the freezer for 30 mins which causes the adhesive to be brittle and then a quick twist. I m just worried about the quick twist part! I dont want to twist off the die on the gpu. I have a couple of older rage pro cards lying around that Im going to glue an older cpu heatsink to and give this method a shot. Too bad these cards dont have a die to make the test more accurate. Ill let you guys know how I made out
 
With all due respect... why the hell would you do something like that in the first place?

I don't know much about overclocking or modding hardware, but that just seemed spectacularly ill-advised.
 
Originally posted by: Sqube
With all due respect... why the hell would you do something like that in the first place?

I don't know much about overclocking or modding hardware, but that just seemed spectacularly ill-advised.
Click to expand...

I didnt mean to do it I meant to use the arctic silver 5 that I had. I used the wrong stuff, anyways I managed to find an old t-bird that I glued a bga ramsink to as well. Everything is nice and hard right now. Im going to let them sit for a lil while longer and then try the deep freeze method
 
Heres a pointer for next time with AS5 adhesive:

Mix 1 part AS5 compound to 3 parts of your mixed Adhesive. It weakens the bond just enough to have option of removing. Also helps with conductive-"ness" 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Matthias99
Originally posted by: Soulkeeper
acetone, or any kinda liquid (even water) would be aPersonally, I would email Arctic Silver and see what they say. There's probably *something* you can do, and they're the ones that might actually know!
Click to expand...


yea give them a call, someone else may have done this same thing... (i am trying to make you feel better)(and it was a feeble attempt, i know) good luck.
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by: lavaheadache
Originally posted by: Sqube
With all due respect... why the hell would you do something like that in the first place?

I don't know much about overclocking or modding hardware, but that just seemed spectacularly ill-advised.
Click to expand...

I didnt mean to do it I meant to use the arctic silver 5 that I had. I used the wrong stuff, anyways I managed to find an old t-bird that I glued a bga ramsink to as well. Everything is nice and hard right now. Im going to let them sit for a lil while longer and then try the deep freeze method
Click to expand...


Well, how'd it go?
 
well guys looks like my x800 pro has a permanent mate. I put just about all the power I felt was safe( I twisted like a motha) and the heat sink would not budge. The good news is that it still works and atleast it has a beast of a cooling system attached to it! I'll post pics If someone wants to host them for me. In the pic I have my BBA 9800 pro with a Tt Giant II and my BBA x800 pro with a Tt Giant III and BGA ramsinks. Thanks for all you interest in my battle with ARCTIC SILVER ADHESIVE(some serious shit!)
 
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