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anyone with concrete knowledge here?
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Kaido
Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
This stuff is the best I've heard of:
http://www.creativestonesystems.com/
They use 3M pebbles with a type of glue ("polymer"), you can get porous or non-porous depending if you want it to drain. iirc they said there can be a shift/crack up to 1-1/4" and it will stretch, so there's plenty of room for expansion, plus they can probably just pop some more pebble mixture in big cracks as needed.
http://www.creativestonesystems.com/
They use 3M pebbles with a type of glue ("polymer"), you can get porous or non-porous depending if you want it to drain. iirc they said there can be a shift/crack up to 1-1/4" and it will stretch, so there's plenty of room for expansion, plus they can probably just pop some more pebble mixture in big cracks as needed.
imported_Imp
Diamond Member
It's a reaction between portland cement and water, so concrete doesn't dry. In fact, you have to keep it "moist", which is why you see burlap ontop of fresh sidewalks sometimes. Don't let water pool though, that actually makes the top layer crack and fall apart, thus the exposed aggregate you see on crappily made sidwalks.
And they kinda have made "concrete" that doesn't crack too much. It's called pre-stressed concrete. You make it curl like an upside down "U" before loading it, so it becomes flat when loaded. Absolute genius, except you need the grade-A shit to make it.
It's been said before, but OP could use expansion joints, cut it into sections or repave with something more flexible. Frost-heave from infiltrated water will probably make it worse in the winter.
How old is the driveway?
Ultimately the only way to really fix a cracked driveway is to rip it up and pour it right.
you can pour a driveway all together as long as it has control joints. Control joints are usually added to concrete driveways to control where it cracks (good name, eh?). There's a couple ways of doing this, usually either tooling them in while pouring or sawcutting shortly after. sawcutting usually looks a little sharper.
If the driveway has no control joints (no formed or cut lines in it for the whole of the driveway), you probably have a successful lawsuit on your hands. That'd be one stupid contractor, who probably shouldn't be licensed.
If the driveway has control joints but has cracked in other areas as well, that could be due to lots of things - age, trees roots, burrowing animals, soil settling or bad soils that weren't properly dealt with, drainage issues, or crappy concrete. if you do rip it up, make sure to fix any underlying problems as well - which will probably involve a good contractor and / or a soils + structural engineer.
Ultimately the only way to really fix a cracked driveway is to rip it up and pour it right.
you can pour a driveway all together as long as it has control joints. Control joints are usually added to concrete driveways to control where it cracks (good name, eh?). There's a couple ways of doing this, usually either tooling them in while pouring or sawcutting shortly after. sawcutting usually looks a little sharper.
If the driveway has no control joints (no formed or cut lines in it for the whole of the driveway), you probably have a successful lawsuit on your hands. That'd be one stupid contractor, who probably shouldn't be licensed.
If the driveway has control joints but has cracked in other areas as well, that could be due to lots of things - age, trees roots, burrowing animals, soil settling or bad soils that weren't properly dealt with, drainage issues, or crappy concrete. if you do rip it up, make sure to fix any underlying problems as well - which will probably involve a good contractor and / or a soils + structural engineer.
Hairline cracks are never a problem if there is steel reinforcing in non-structural components.. When the cracks separate it begins to turn to rubble and allows large quanitites of water below grade that causes heaving and freeze problems.
Residential crews typically cut corners i.e. not proper thickness, too much water, bad air entrainment etc. They go with a mix that is easy to pour and finish.
MikeyIs4Dcats
Lifer
actually concrete never stops curing. Even today the Hoover Dam is continuing to cure out. As it cures, it continues to achieve higher stress limits.
For a residential driveway 5" is sufficient. 4" is even acceptable in many areas. And the drive will typically be reinforced with wire mesh or fiber mesh. Rebar would be overkill.
and just like death and taxes, one thing is certain, CONCRETE WILL CRACK.
BoomerD
No Lifer
Concrete cracks...it's the nature of the beast.
No matter what you do, how well you prepare the sub-surface...it's gonna crack.
Expansion joints help to control WHERE it cracks...but it's still gonna crack.
MOST people don't know the difference between cement and concrete...and use the words interchangably.
I've been involved in one way or another, with the placing and finishing of several hundred thousands of cubic yards of concrete over the years...
I H-A-T-E the stuff...
No matter what you do, how well you prepare the sub-surface...it's gonna crack.
Expansion joints help to control WHERE it cracks...but it's still gonna crack.
MOST people don't know the difference between cement and concrete...and use the words interchangably.
I've been involved in one way or another, with the placing and finishing of several hundred thousands of cubic yards of concrete over the years...
I H-A-T-E the stuff...
BoomerD
No Lifer
on maritime construction jobs, we poured thousands of yards of concrete every day.
The mix is "special" only that it's usually a bit "richer" (6 or 7 sacks of portland cement per cubic yard as compared to 4 or 5 for normal concrete)
Pouring concrete underwater isn't particularly difficult, BUT, you can't let it fall...the portland cement will dissapate into the surrounding water and you'll be left with sand and gravel.
For deep pours, we use a "tremie" pipe, which is a long pipe attached to the hose on a concrete pumper and supported by a crane. That allows the concrete to be pumped to the bottom of the pour where it doesn't have to fall a long distance. (you can't let concrete fall very fall out of water either...it "breaks up" and develops bad rock pockets and such that are a PITA to eliminate...usually requiring the concrete be broken out and replaced.)
http://danbrownandassociates.c...al_shaft_049_small.jpg
http://www.adelaide.edu.au/spa...mcs/site/diaphragm.jpg
http://www.ebsaryfoundationco....amdblackpointcombo.jpg
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