anyone here use Duralast GT brake pads?

[QueBert]

I ordered a front set today, not much to read about on Google, but the few people I did see commenting on them seemed to like them. Pricey for sure, but I like the lifetime warranty and the fact there are Autozones everywhere. I wanted a set with good stopping and low noise with not too much dusting. The guy at AZ who helped me, told me AFTER I had already ordered them how great they were and I'd have no dusting what so ever. He couldn't have been saying that to try and get a sale as I had already special ordered them. I wonder if he actually believes that? lol.

 

[Billb2]

By replacing only the fronts you have unbalanced the braking system. And you've reduced the safety of driving your car (especially in wet or snowy conditions).

If the new pads have more stopping power, then the front wheels will be doing most of the braking (and the pads will wear out fast).

If they have less, then the rear wheels will be doing most of the stopping.

 

[sdifox]

By replacing only the fronts you have unbalanced the braking system. And you've reduced the safety of driving your car (especially in wet or snowy conditions).

If the new pads have more stopping power, then the front wheels will be doing most of the braking (and the pads will wear out fast).

If they have less, then the rear wheels will be doing most of the stopping.

Front wheels does most of the braking anyway.

 

[pcgeek11]

By replacing only the fronts you have unbalanced the braking system. And you've reduced the safety of driving your car (especially in wet or snowy conditions).

If the new pads have more stopping power, then the front wheels will be doing most of the braking (and the pads will wear out fast).

If they have less, then the rear wheels will be doing most of the stopping.

This is totally not true. It is normal to replace the fronts long before the rear. The fronts usually perform 80% of the braking anyway.

Your statements couldn't be any more false.

 

[RLGL]

For best results bed them in properly

 

[Billb2]

This is totally not true. It is normal to replace the fronts long before the rear. The fronts usually perform 80% of the braking anyway.

Your statements couldn't be any more false.

His fronts will be doing 90% of the braking. And besides screwing up the normal braking balance, the anti-lock system will result in unbalanced braking in emergencies.

I understand that a 10% balance difference isn't that big of a deal, until that avoidance maneuver turns into a crash instead of avoiding one.

I crew chief for a couple of road race teams and our cars have brake balance control that the driver can adjust during a race as track conditions dictate. It often also needs to be adjusted when we make suspension settings changes (ie. ride height, camber, shock settings, etc.).

 

[NutBucket]

Lifetime pad warranty? Prepare to replace lots of rotors. I use Akebono most of the time and Hawk for sportier applications.

 

[pcgeek11]

His fronts will be doing 90% of the braking. And besides screwing up the normal braking balance, the anti-lock system will result in unbalanced braking in emergencies.

I understand that a 10% balance difference isn't that big of a deal, until that avoidance maneuver turns into a crash instead of avoiding one.

I crew chief for a couple of road race teams and our cars have brake balance control that the driver can adjust during a race as track conditions dictate. It often also needs to be adjusted when we make suspension settings changes (ie. ride height, camber, shock settings, etc.).

Sorry, but the comparison you made is BS and so is your claim. The ABS System balances the braking pressure to each wheel based on many factors and relies on input from the wheel RPM Sensors as a primary input. Not dangerous at all.

I suppose from your statement that you never get a 2 wheel brake job, but only replace all 4 at the same time? Waste of money and time.

 

[Fenixgoon]

His fronts will be doing 90% of the braking. And besides screwing up the normal braking balance, the anti-lock system will result in unbalanced braking in emergencies.

I understand that a 10% balance difference isn't that big of a deal, until that avoidance maneuver turns into a crash instead of avoiding one.

I crew chief for a couple of road race teams and our cars have brake balance control that the driver can adjust during a race as track conditions dictate. It often also needs to be adjusted when we make suspension settings changes (ie. ride height, camber, shock settings, etc.).

racing isn't the same as commuting.

edit: also, changing proportioning valves and whatnot does not remove the fact that under braking, the weight bias is towards the front (why you get nose dive) and therefore the front brakes are doing the majority of the work. same is true on motorcycles.

 

[mindless1]

It is impractical to change all 4 wheels at once and I for one, am not about to feel bound to buy the same overpriced factory pads. Before I'd do that, I'd buy the overpriced Autozone pads IF I felt that I'd own the vehicle long enough to get the next replacement set free under warranty to get good value from them.

What Billb2 stated IS somewhat true, within the context that QueBert must be driving pretty aggressively to feel that the Duralast GT's are the best choice, but this is why things like speed limits exist. Modern vehicles handle wonderfully whether there is a little brake imbalance or not, if you just use common sense to drive within the limitations of the vehicle, road, visibility, traffic congestion, etc.

If you're going to drive like every maneuver is life or death, sure replace the entire suspension along with the brakes and tires every few years. Speed limits make that hard to justify to me.

 

[QueBert]

It is impractical to change all 4 wheels at once and I for one, am not about to feel bound to buy the same overpriced factory pads. Before I'd do that, I'd buy the overpriced Autozone pads IF I felt that I'd own the vehicle long enough to get the next replacement set free under warranty to get good value from them.

What Billb2 stated IS somewhat true, within the context that QueBert must be driving pretty aggressively to feel that the Duralast GT's are the best choice, but this is why things like speed limits exist. Modern vehicles handle wonderfully whether there is a little brake imbalance or not, if you just use common sense to drive within the limitations of the vehicle, road, visibility, traffic congestion, etc.

If you're going to drive like every maneuver is life or death, sure replace the entire suspension along with the brakes and tires every few years. Speed limits make that hard to justify to me.

LOL that would make sense, but nope I don't drive aggressively at all. In fact my old pads were still in very good shape. 88k miles and I haven't changed them, and my mechanic buddy who helped said if it was his car he wouldn't be changing them. I just wanted something that would brake better. And uhhh, I guess I like to spend money. I got new tires, so I just figured hay why not get some better brakes. I will say from the little bit I've driven on them, they're very nice, I notice they stop quicker and just feel different. I was going to buy Hawk, but this was an impulse buy and I don't think any shops around here carry Hawk. I apparently should drive a bit more aggressively, my rotors didn't even need turning.

 

[mindless1]

Severe duty brakes aren't better if you don't drive aggressively to the point of overheating. Every pad design is a trade off even if that trade isn't cost.

Initial bite is just a perception while the reality is it's just worse modulation that helps to wear rotors faster.

They sacrifice everything else in favor of heat resistance. Granted for those designed and marketed towards street use, the difference isn't that much, certainly swamped by tire choice and having ABS.

 

[Billb2]

Hmmmm

If the rears are doing only 10% of the braking, instead of 20%, and ABS depends on wheel speed matching, the rears will skid first and ABS will activate on the rears only = loss of control.

No need to replace all 4 pads (nor rotors) if you're replacing like with like.

 

[JCH13]

Duralast pads have treated me well. Don't worry about putting slightly different pads on the front and rear. I wouldn't put race pads on the front and economy street pads on the rear though, dramatic mis-matches are a bad idea.

If you've got ABS it can make up for a multitude of sins, including slightly mis-matched braking forces. No car is perfectly balanced in braking.

Billb2, could you please explain why the activation of ABS on the rear axle only leads to a loss of control? And why ABS would only activate on the rear wheels?

 

[pauldun170]

I have NEVER replaced the brake pads on both the front and rear at the same time on my car.
That bitch has drums in the back. Those are shoes, not pads

(also add me to camp that states replace when they no longer meet spec. No more no less. You don't replace perfectly fine pads just because you happen to be doing the job on a pair that are worn out)

 

[NutBucket]

Yep, because unlike tires the coefficient of friction doesn't change as the pads/shoes wear.

 

[mindless1]

Hmmmm

If the rears are doing only 10% of the braking, instead of 20%, and ABS depends on wheel speed matching, the rears will skid first and ABS will activate on the rears only = loss of control.

No need to replace all 4 pads (nor rotors) if you're replacing like with like.

If rears are doing only 10%, it is because they have LESS friction on wheel. This means they are less likely to lockup and skid first, except neither will to a significant extent because of ABS.

Suppose you switched like with like. Are you then not going to drive it ever again, because your new like pads won't stop as well for the first few hundred miles till bedded in good, so it is impossible for you to drive to make that happen?

The answer to that is drive carefully... same as always.

 

[pcgeek11]

Hmmmm

If the rears are doing only 10% of the braking, instead of 20%, and ABS depends on wheel speed matching, the rears will skid first and ABS will activate on the rears only = loss of control.

No need to replace all 4 pads (nor rotors) if you're replacing like with like.

The ABS doesn't work that way. If it is working properly NONE of the wheels will lock up at all. Most ABS Systems are 4 channel and each wheel is controlled individually.

Your theory is is completely out to lunch.

 

[eng2d2]

I have used duralast on all my cars not the GT. I have to change the duralast brakes every year on my cars except for the corolla. Thecorolla last for 2 years. My camry, lexus only last one year.

 

[mindless1]

^ You must drive long and hard. I practically always get 30K mi out of front pads and closer to 100K out of rear. I did always get the rotors resurfaced with each pad swap or more often in vehicles after ~ 1995 or so there's not enough thickness left to resurface so replaced instead.

 

[pcgeek11]

I have used duralast on all my cars not the GT. I have to change the duralast brakes every year on my cars except for the corolla. Thecorolla last for 2 years. My camry, lexus only last one year.

^ You must drive long and hard. I practically always get 30K mi out of front pads and closer to 100K out of rear. I did always get the rotors resurfaced with each pad swap or more often in vehicles after ~ 1995 or so there's not enough thickness left to resurface so replaced instead.

Wow. I have never had to replace the front brake pads below 100K miles. My last truck was 20 years old with the original brakes and clutch.

You guys are hard on brakes. Do you ride with your foot on the brake pedal?

 

[mindless1]

^ Just a lot of stop and go driving, with more hills and curves than straightaways. However your case seems unusually high, I've done a lot of people's brakes and front were usually before 50K.

 

[eng2d2]

^ You must drive long and hard. I practically always get 30K mi out of front pads and closer to 100K out of rear. I did always get the rotors resurfaced with each pad swap or more often in vehicles after ~ 1995 or so there's not enough thickness left to resurface so replaced instead.

I get the lifetime middle of the road brakes or the cheapest with lifetime warranty. I don't drive any different to make the brakes wear out fast. At first I thought maybe the wife is hard on brakes but how do I explain the corolla lasting 2 years? The corolla does have bigger brake pads though.

 

[eng2d2]

Wow. I have never had to replace the front brake pads below 100K miles. My last truck was 20 years old with the original brakes and clutch.

You guys are hard on brakes. Do you ride with your foot on the brake pedal?

I think its the brakes I get. Monroes lasted longer for me.

 

[NutBucket]

It's all about driving style. I sold my 2005 Legacy GT with over 100k on the factory pads. I am convinced an MT is easier on brakes. So far our Forester is almost 40k on factory pads and easily over 50% life left in the pads. Maybe that blows my theory since it's a CVT?